corsair

iTrader: (12)

I was wondering if there is an "average" life on the stock rotors. I know there are a number of factors that play into this, (driving style, tracking the car, etc.) but was hoping for some range. I tried SEARCH but couldn't find an answer. I have 40K miles on my original brakes. It will be time to change the pads soon and I want to know if I should do the rotors as well. If I get another 40K out of the new pads, will my original rotors be able to handle a total of 80K miles? TIA!

sq40

iTrader: (4)

I Usually change rotors every 2 sets of pads.

showstoppertk

iTrader: (6)

if you haven't changed your pads or rotors yet then I'd say its a pretty sure thing that you'll have to change out both...you may even have to replace more items if you haven't touched your brake system yet and you've got 40k on it. I just took my Z in at 22,000 miles for its first pad change and the groves on the front rotors were already too deep to turn. I had to buy new ones. so I'd say regardless of how you drive you'll be in for at least changing all 4 pads and rotors plus I'd make sure they bleed your brakes and check the lines. you don't want to try and be cheap with brakes. Z's and G's are notorious for eating up brakes (especially the front) quickly. I'd say go for an upgrade in pads and rotors since you have to do it anyway and it'll probably end up costing the same. I'd contact Jason from Performance Nisaan...he's on this forums, he can get you a Stoptech kit which will have everything you need. good luck!

corsair

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the input. I just had my brake system checked today. They flushed out the fluid but they said the rotors and pads still have plenty of life left. I'm really surprised considering the car has over 40K miles on the original rotors.

Kolia

iTrader: (2)

Thats good news.

Just mesuring the thickness of the rotor would have given you the answer. Having grooves is actually good, provided they are not from a brake pads worn to the metal.

corsair

iTrader: (12)

My rotors have always been super smooth. Don't you need a micrometer to measure the rotor thickness, or is there another way? What are the specs for how thick the rotors should be? Do you know the RANGE?

Kolia

iTrader: (2)

This does NOT include ’06 models since I don’t have the Tech manual for that model year. It probably didn’t change.

Front N-Brembo Rotor Nominal: 24.0 Minimal: 22.0 Pads Nominal: 11.0 Minimal: 2.0
Rear N-Brembo Rotor Nominal: 16.0 Minimal: 14.0 Pads Nominal: 8.5 Minimal: 2.0

Front Brembo Rotor Nominal: 30.0 Minimal: 28.4 Pads Nominal: 9.3 Minimal: 2.0
Rear Brembo Rotor Nominal: 22.0 Minimal: 20.2 Pads Nominal: 9.1 Minimal: 2.0

Vamos_Rafael

iTrader: (18)

i shot through my rotors in... 10,000 miles
the new EBC sport rotors seems to be holding up better

corsair

iTrader: (12)

Hey Bee Ess Pee, you must be hitting the twisties up in Valley Forge or something. Been awhile since i've been there.

corsair

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Koila!

Vamos_Rafael

iTrader: (18)

i dont think im rough with the car but i dont think stock components are up to spec for spirited driving
ah yes twisties...

jondimellow

iTrader: (3)

so these grooves.... when u run ure finger across the radius, u feel like little valleys? why are these things good? also, without getting a caliper or ruler to measure ure rotor thickness, what else is a good sign u need new rotors/resurface?


thanks
jon

Kolia

iTrader: (2)

The grooves are much like the grooves on a vinyl disc from "the ol' days". The brake pad will wear and conform to these grooves, increasing the overall contact area of your pad-rotor interface.

You need a micrometer to measure the thickness of the rotor since we usually have a small lip at the circomferance of the rotor. Low thickness or cracked rotors are pretty much the only reasons to have your rotors replaced. Resurfacing a rotor is, IMO, a waste of money and should only be done as a last resort if you can't get new rotors mounted immediately.

People resurface their rotors because of brake shudder or vibration. Blaming the problem to warped rotors (which is extremely rare). Most of the time, this shudder comes from bad braking habits like holding your brake on right after a hard braking. If the rotor is really warped or is not flat (bumpy), it's usually a heat management problem. Resurfacing (ie making the rotor thinner) will just make the problem worst.

Have a look at the StopTech white paper on The Myth of Warped Rotors, written by Caroll Smith. Very interresting.

roast

iTrader: (2)

kolia - your posts have helped me several times before... you rock.

I know I'm bringing up an old thread from the past - but I used the search engine to find a relevant thread instead of making another on the same exact topic. Go me!

I have a base model with the non-brembo brakes. (30k miles)

I was having a dealership fix an unrelated mistake of theirs (kolia you probably remember, they mounted a rear tire backwards) and in the process they tried telling me I needed to have a $500 brake job on the front (new rotors & pads). I told him I check my front pads often and that I knew the pads were getting close to needing replaced but the rotors should still be good. He said "well you didn't do anything wrong, it's just if we machine them down they will no longer be in spec". I said "Are you telling me I need to replace my rotors every 30k miles?" He says "Well the metal is soft and wears down quicker than on other cars. I can get you aftermarket rotors that are cheaper and actually last longer" I said "Thanks, but not today." He was really trying to make the point that my brakes were unsafe and they needed to do the work right then. I don't take things like my brakes or tires lightly, but I'm not stupid either and I don't play into scare tactics.

So I went to a different dealership (one which I like much better for numerous reasons) and told them I needed a brake job. I mentioned I might need new rotors. The guy looked at me funny, "how many miles are on it?" 30k... without even looking at it he says "oh we can machine those no problem". That's exactly what I was thinking to begin with.

From the sounds of a few posts on this thread, it sounds like some dealerships get over on people quite often.

Did the dealership that turned my rotors make a mistake by telling me they could do it without measuring it first? Was it safe to assume 30k and my first set of pads the rotors were nowhere near needing replaced? I seriously doubt they could get away with turning my rotors if they would no longer be in spec. That's a lawsuit waiting to happen. The first dealership was trying to rip me off, aye??

plumpzz

iTrader: (10)

You should feel a deep groove on the outside most part of the rotor. The inside should feel smooth. That groove is what is measured for rotor life.. I have a small groove and i dont brake hard at all aat only 14k miles. I dont expect rotors to last for more than 25k miles. Good thing, i want stoptech stage 2

Kolia

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the compliment!

It’s hard to say after the rotors have been turned. I doubt the dealer would have turned them under the minimal specs. That would be a liability!

Do you have the original pads? How thick were they?

A turned rotor will have less endurance and will be more prone to brake shudder, cracking and such. So the first dealer might have wanted to avoid seeing a customer return after 3 weeks because of such a problem. Playing devils advocate here…

In truth, I don’t know. Measuring the rotor would be the only way to know.

This reminds me of my Italian mechanic who wouldn’t let me chose my oil and fluids and wouldn’t let me leave with my car until it was spot on! Best mechanic I’ve had so far!

davidv

iTrader: (2)

43,000 miles on the original pads and rotors and they are doing just fine (knock on wood).

roast

iTrader: (2)

This was my first set of replacement pads. The others were worn down pretty far. Not all the way but to the point they definitely needed changed, so they werent very thick. I got 30k out of the pads so I think that was pretty good considering the way I drive.

The rotors had a pretty healthy groove....

Ah, why is that? Less metal to absorb heat so they get hotter?

I do plan on upgrading my brakes but I want to get all I can out of the stockers because the car is just my daily driver for now and IMO anything more than that is overkill at this point.

So it will probably be alright for now, eh? I still need to bed the pads correct? I guess I can plan on a complete overhaul sometime in the near future??

As far as an italian mechanic... I sure could have used one of those back in the day.... I used to have an alfa romeo back when I was learning to drive and the maintenence bills got to be too much for my noobishness...lol.. ended up selling it to a collector...

Kolia

iTrader: (2)

Yes, less metals to absorb heat will raise the max temperatures seen by the rotor.

You'll be fine for now and yes, bed the pads on the new rotor surface