Mac3

I've got an '04 G35 5AT coupe (so no Brembos), and tonight I did something idiotic.

I was doing a complete brake fluid change to ATE Super Blue using the Motive Products Universal Power Bleeder (which works well, by the way -- assuming you pay attention to what you're doing). Anyway, while bleeding the last valve I got distracted, and by the time I noticed, the pressure bleeder reservoir was dry and I had forced air into the master cylinder .

Obviously I now have to bleed the air out of the entire system. My question is: If I simply refill the brake fluid reservior and start over with my power bleeder, will that force all the air completely out of the master cylinder, the ABS unit and all the brake lines?

The G35 service manual section on bleeding the brake system doesn't mention anything fancy like cycling the ABS or anything, just the basic bleeding procedure.


As an aside, the G35 service manual gives the proper bleed order as RR --> LF --> LR --> RF. As I understand it, the proper order according to the 350Z service manusl is LR --> RF --> RR --> LF. Anyone know why they're different?

bokone

iTrader: (4)

Yes, I like the Motive Power Bleeder too. Assuming that you did not drive the car or activate the ABS once you had air in the system, you can just re-bleed everything. The ABS is a separate system until the unit it activated then it opens to the main lines. I can only guess the piping is run in a different config as to the different bleed order. Good luck

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Just re-bleed. You'll be ok.

Mac3

Thanks for the reassurance -- fortunately I was smart enough not to start the car or anything. I bought some more brake fluid today and re-bled with good results. I initially used the Power Bleeder but there was still a bit of air left in the master cylinder which required the traditional two-person pump/hold method to remove. Now all is well and the pedal is nice and firm.

peptidbond

iTrader: (2)

I have bled my brakes and million times and I made the same mistake this weekend...but I was using the mityvac handheld pump. I have been driving the car and the brakes are OK, but they feel soft. I have enough pressure to safely drive, but the pedal is just too soft.

Unfortunately, I am out of Ate Typ200 so I cannot fix it now. As a side note, I switch between Ate Super Blue and Typ200 every time I do a full flush. They are the same fluid, but different colors. The different colors makes a full flush much easier.

Personally I have heard that getting air into the master cylinder is a huge issue. That is how I found this thread. I am looking for detailed info on how to properly purge the master cylinder. I will see what I can find.

inTgr8r

iTrader: (1)

This is the mian reason you disconnect the battery B4 bleeding.

Mac3

When I went to re-flush, I initially just used the Power Bleeder again. I got quite a bit, but not all of the air out that way. In fact, you could still hear it squishing inside the master cylinder when pumping the brake pedal. Getting a second person to help do the regular two-person brake-pedal method successfully removed the rest of the air. I have had a nice firm pedal since (including a track day two days later).


BTW, I did have my battery disconnected, and I didn't reconnect it or start the motor before rebleeding. As bokone pointed out, this probably kept the air contained in the master cylinder and didn't introduce any into the ABS unit.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

+1 on the 2-person method. I bought the Mighty Vac also, but ended up doing the 2-man method, because of the increase pressure buildup when someone pumps the brakes and holds it down.