bleunetizen

iTrader: (3)

I just had my brake fluid flushed, and my pedals became softer than before.

The guy who flushed my brakes completely emptied the reservoir, then filled it up and started bleeding.

The guy thought he could do the bleeding without taking the wheels off because the nipple was easy to access from outside, so he bled using four nipples, one per each corner.

we started the car and the brake was just way too soft, so i told the guy to check the brakes again, then he found that the stock brembos had two nipples per caliper. So he took the wheels off, bled all four corners from the inside nipples. This improve it a bit but still softer than what I had before.

My quetion is..

1. I read some people saying 'if you empty the reservior, air gets into the master cylinder and you cant bleed air from master cylinder, you need to take it the master cynlinder apart to fix it. Is this true?

2. I also read people saying 'if you empty the reservoir, air gets into the ABS unit and you cant bleed air out from ABS unit, you need it fixed by nissan dealership

3. Has anyone experienced the same issue like me - sucked it lots of air through master cylinder and bled completely?

4. Am I supposed to do the bleeding with the car running to give more pressure to it?

btw, the car stops fine.. its more like getting about and inch or two of freeplay in the brake pedal before it actually bites, and when it bites, it seems to bite ok. So I am assuming its air trapped in somewhere..

Look forward to fix this asap.. i got a track day coming in 5 days..

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Raise the car --drop the wheels --Open one bleeder at a time and let gravity do its job ----U should get a good consistent flow in drips. Be patient and replenish the resivour as needed. As it is flowing, gently tap the caliper and other components in the system to dislodge trapped air-After all 4 are done, start the car and very slowly depress the pedal several times till u feel it harden up. This is handy if ur by urself.How ever u do it though ---Tap the calipers. Good luck

97supratt

iTrader: (61)

Does the guy know how to bleed brakes? You pump the brakes 4-5 times and hold it, bleed one wheel at a time and add brake fluid as needed. Keep doing that until all the air is out, and check the fluid.

Its very simple, but if someone is lazy then you'll have problems.

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Having owned a garage for 14 years and being a one man operation due to a labor force that leaves much to be desired and having done 1000s of bleeds from Corvettes ( they"re a bit*h ) to PowerStrokes to John Deere tractors to Pantaras and YES 350Zs I have never had a bleed prob. If u have help --fine, The pump and hold method is the norm ----This is simply an alternative. OPEN MINDS are the mothers of invention. And nothing is engraved in stone. I was never one to do as I was told. Have to laugh --Lazy ? Maybe ---but rather than tying up 2 people, I can just walk away and do other things while as I say --Gravity does its job.

J Ritt

iTrader: (4)

While you may not need to take anything apart per se, the reservoir should not be completely emptied, and you most likely DO have air in the system. The fact that the tech didn't bleed the inners, and completely emptied the reservoir tells me that he shouldn't be working on your brake system. He obviously doesn't know a Track Model 350Z from a tractor (no offense Eazzzzzzy ).

If I were you, I'd get the car to someone that knows what they're doing at this point. The dealer should have a very specific procedure to handle air in the system, and this varies by car. If not a dealership, you should find a specialist for the 350Z in your area that knows the proper procedure and has run into this problem before. Where are you located? Maybe I can recommend someone to you?

This is not something you want to putz around with if you have a trackday coming up. If you don't get it right, your day at the track will be a lot of wasted time and money. It will not be fun.

On a side note, you should definitely be putting race pads in your calipers if you are doing a track day. If you run the stock pads, you run the risk of destroying both your pads and rotors. Street pads are not designed to hold up to track temperatures, period. You can probably get away with them in the rear, but absolutely not in the front. You also need a good brake fluid with a high boiling point. We recommend Motul RBF600, which is a good value for the performance.

Finally, you need to make sure you bed your pads in properly every time you swap out your pads: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml

I put my race pads in a couple of days prior to the event, and drive them around town. This scrapes all of the street pad material off of the rotors. THen you go to the track and bed them in before your first session. Run the event and enjoy yourself. Drive the race pads home. Drive them the next day or two around town. Driving them cold will scrape all of the race pad material off of the rotors. They'll be silver and clean looking again, rather than blue-grey on the swept area. Then you put your street pads back in, and bed them in. That's it. Rotor and pad management is key. If you do it right, you shouldn't have any vibrations, etc.

Call us if you need pads, fluid, or a shop recommendation. 310-325-4799 The brakes are typically the first thing to diminish on the track. While the stock Brembos are a great setup, they need to be prepared properly for track use. Street pads and common fluid don't cut it when your rotors are heating over 1000 deg. F!

bleunetizen

iTrader: (3)

yes i know i need to prepare the car better for a track event. I went to flush the fluid because I wanted to put in the motul 600's.

But since the reservoir HAS been emptied already and it sucked a lot of air in, what's the fix? Will it bleed all the air if I follow the bleeding method described in the workshop manual? Also, does it matter which nipple I bleed first on brembo's ? (inner and outer)

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Outer first then inner all around the car then repeat. Then trust me-- last thing u do is gravity---Just for 30 secs ----same outer -inner all around and tap the Cal ur bleeding to shake any bubbles that are clinging.

J Ritt

iTrader: (4)

You can try the standard bleeding procedure, but you may not be able to get all of the air out. If there is air left in there, it's going to just get worse at the track. That's why I recommended taking it to an expert.

Even on a standard bleed where air isn't sucked in, it may take a couple of full bleeds around the car to get all the air out of the system.

I wouldn't worry about the inner or outer first thing. I think we usually do outer first, but it won't make a big difference.

bleunetizen

iTrader: (3)

alright.. bled all four corners again, and found the air coming out from left front caliper. now its back to normal ! Thanks guys

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Excellent

J Ritt

iTrader: (4)

Excellent! Just make sure not to overtighten those bleed screws either. If you strip them out, your caliper is shot...which means a big $ replacement bill. Have fun at the track.

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

JRitt ---Thats too funny ---I had a Corvette one time that was driving me CRAZY!!!!!! I worked on it 2 days ---proportioning valve-Flush ---Pressure chks --Replaced hoses --2 Master cylinders--- Finally relized some one had stripped the bleeder and some how got a HeliCoil in there ---It didnt leak but pulled air. OH well