sicilianoNYC

I have a track Z and changed out my front rotors like 5.5 months ago with stoptech slotted ones and at the same time changed all 4 brake pads out. In the last month or month n half I have noticed a decent amount of vibrating in the steering wheel when doing moderate braking from any speed above 40 mph. IS IT POSSIBLE that these rotors are ALREADY warped in almost half a years use?!?!?! If so there is no way to cut slotted rotors right? would I be better off buying oem rotors? Also, what else could be the issue? I just rebalanced my wheels to make sure they were ok and they are.

Q45tech

Of course rotors can warp in 6,000 miles! They can warp in a day. Measure the runout on each one, that way we'll have an idea of your sensitivity in thousanths of an inch. Some people cannot stand 0.003 some are numb to 0.009"............oem spec is 0.0028" max.
Did you index the rotor when installed to set the minimum runout when brand new to prolong the time to warp.

On the car lathe are not stiff enough to deal with drilled or slotted but BIG external lathe can handle the mods without creating a shudder.

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (4)

Did you properly bed-in the brake pads?

sicilianoNYC

yes i did bed them in, if i take it to nissan can they figure out if they are warped or not? Also, what are some cheap decent brembo replacement front rotors (NON slotted and NON drilled).....

Jason@Performance

iTrader: (11)

You can get Centric Rotors just Blanks (not slotted or drilled...)

I can get them for you for $95 each plus shipping...

sicilianoNYC

how good are these rotors and will they last a while? I have the bremobo setup remember?

sicilianoNYC

Also, can slotted rotors be turned? I noticed this thread and fab_vr6 seems to have the same exact problem im experiencing with the stoptech rotors i bought.... https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....bo+replacement

Jason@Performance

iTrader: (11)

Slotted or Drilled rotors can be turned on the same lathe as any other rotor...

Yes these rotors will last you just as long as any other rotor... You never really know it depends on your driving habits, how often you drive the car really hard and get the brakes heated and then just park...

MoodDude

Have you done a detailed inspection of the rotors, calipers, pads, brake fluid and all the mounting bolts? I would suggest doing that first before replacing a part you don't know if it is defective.

Also, whenever you brake hard and come to a stop, try getting off the brakes while at rest. Brake pads have been know to leave an excessive amount of compound on the resting point and causing braking vibration later. Also, if the rotors are extremely hot, pad can get "welded" to them too. That is the first thing they teach you at a HPDE, is get your braking done fast and then get off them, and if you have to completely stop, turn the wheel so the car doesn't move - don't hold the brakes or set the e-brake.

Sk8fe

iTrader: (5)

My last track day in June I had vibration when braking above 80mph. Stock rotors, stock brembos, CARBOTECH track pads. My problem was cause by pad compound build up on my rotors when switching between street and track pads (looks like "smudges" on the rotor). Since my track pads were new the event before (May's event) and I already bedded them in and heat cycled them, I didn't do as good of a job as I should have when I swapped them in for June's event. A proper bed-in process would have also removed the street compound from my rotors and prevented this "smudging". I'll pay closer attention to this for July's event. I scrubbed (ScotchBrite) the "smudges" off the rotors as best I could and did another bed-in sequence and that resolved my vibration problem.

If you switch between street and track pads frequently, still make sure you do a good bed-in process even if your track pads are not new. Don't be lazy like I was... I learned my lesson.

Of course there are other factors that contribute to steering wheel vibration under braking, but this one is easy to check and to rule out quickly.

HTH. Good luck.

sicilianoNYC

I dont have any smudging on these rotors so im not sure...would it do any good to do a proper bedding in right now (6 months later).....i believe i did it when i got the new rotors and pads but maybe i didnt

Sk8fe

iTrader: (5)

If you haven't swapped your pads in the past 6 months or since having done all this then my scenario is most likely not the case. After a month of "normal" driving any previous compound build up would have worked its way off.

My scenario is more when you run street pads and Friday night before heading to the track Saturday morning for a weekend event you are swapping in your track pads and not properly bedding them in (even when reusing track pads from your last event because they have enough material on them for another gig) because it is late, your tired, its hot, etc. Then out on the track you develop build up on the rotors from not properly bedding them in and thus get vibration. Then Sunday night when you get home you are swapping back your street pads (because you tracks pads squeal worse than a pig on Christmas Eve when used on the street)!

Do you have any spider cracks on the rotors? If not then I would get them checked and possibly turned if the shop can do that.

roncfpz

iTrader: (15)

+1.....be sure to check your calipers and mounting bolts. It sound like you have some uneven pad deposits on your rotors. This is more often the case and not warped rotors. Check this paper for some good info on the topic. Also, it is not easy to find a place that will actually resurface drilled or slotted rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

sicilianoNYC

I took it to Nissan and they turned the rotors which fixed the problem . They said the right side was a little off so that probably was the problem. The only question I have is how could these 6 month old stoptech slotted rotors become warped og blemished so bad within that period of time? I'm worried that months down the road the issue will reappear....ideas?

sicilianoNYC

anyone?

J Ritt

iTrader: (4)

It only takes one time to create an uneven pad deposition on a rotor. I've done it myself actually. Let me give you a common scenario. You go out for canyon run...or, in your case, a Northern NJ or CT wilderness run (I used to live there). You're ripping along, driving the car hard in the twisties. You are getting the brakes nice and hot. You decide you've had enough. Someone calls you on your cell phone. You're not paying close enough attention. You come to a stop sign. You pull up to the stop sign and sit there with your foot on the brake for 15 seconds. Bam, you just did it. While you're sitting at the stop sign, pad material fuses to the rotor in that one spot where they are resting. You've now created a high spot on the rotor. Every time that spot passes the caliper when you're braking, even more pad material sticks to that spot.

It happens all the time, and all it takes is one careless few seconds. You just have to be very mindful to cool down your brakes properly when you've been using them a lot, and do not come to a complete stop with your foot on the pedal.

Q45tech

If you look under brakes in the FSM you will see a page on how to use a rotor runout dial gauge to check the condition of rotors.........make sure they are below 0.0028".................so very common that they are out of spec.