Question on Installing Koni's
07-28-2006, 09:23 PM
#1
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Question on Installing Koni's
I got set of Koni's on the way. And I was trying to research on how to install them.
http://www.solo2.org/blogs/christoc/...06/08/374.aspx
This site don't work anymore.Oh for me anyway..So I was wondering if there is any more websites who has how to install koni's..Or any shocks..
http://www.solo2.org/blogs/christoc/...06/08/374.aspx
This site don't work anymore.Oh for me anyway..So I was wondering if there is any more websites who has how to install koni's..Or any shocks..
07-29-2006, 06:46 AM
#3
http://www.g-owners.com/article_read.asp?id=25
Go to the web site above, but for the front suspension, use the update posted below.
Remove nut on sway bar end link on suspension control arm.
Use floor jack to compress suspension upwards to relieve pressure on the sway bar end link bolt, you goal it to push the bolt out of the suspension arm.
Remove lower bolt on shock/spring assembly, you may or may not need to use the floor jack to adjust pressure on the suspension in order to free the bolt.
Unbolt the brake line from the shock, push off the speed sensor lines off the shock.
Look up at the bottom of the upper A arm that's closest to you. See the cotter pin in it. Remove that pin, your not going to be able to reuse it, replace it with a 3/32" by 1" pin on reasembly.
With the cotter pin out loosen the nut above it and turn it about 3 turn's. Since the A arm usually sticks in place on that bolt, you'll need to tap or whack the A arm with a rubber mallet to pop the bolt free. Once you get it free now take the nut off all the way. BUT be carefull once you do, the entire suspension will flop free and to the side, don't get hurt.
Now pop the hood of the car if you haven't already done so. Break free the 3 nuts that secure the top shock mount, removing only 2 nuts. On the 350Z IIRC you might have to remove the strut tower bar, though I could be wrong. Reach into the wheel well with one hand and grab the shock/spring assembly and push upwards while with the other free hand you undo the last upper shock mount bolt.
Guide the shock/spring assembly out of the car. Be very carefull at the fender lip, easy to scratch.
With the shock/spring assembly off the car it's time to deal with getting the spring off the shock. Some Z owner's may elect to not use a spring compressor, be carefull if you do.
When you get to the point of needing to break free the bolt the secures the shock to the shock mount here's how I figured out to break it free even if it's really on their hard.
Use the wrench in the middle of the picture, got mine at Sears 17mm and 19mm.
Use that wrench and a cresent wrench in the following order.
Place the shock/spring assembly on the highest grip surface you can find. Grab the wrench, put your foot on the whole assembly and pull back with as much as it takes to get the nut free.
Hope that helps,
Repeat on the other side of the car of course.
On the rear shocks, since the Koni's to their rebound adjusting from the top you have to be mind full of keeping the adjustment window pointing outwards as you put the oem upper shock mount on. You may find yourself installing the shocks rear shocks only to discover that the adjustment window still isn't pointing in the right direction, be patient and make some adjustments to get it right.
Go to the web site above, but for the front suspension, use the update posted below.
Remove nut on sway bar end link on suspension control arm.
Use floor jack to compress suspension upwards to relieve pressure on the sway bar end link bolt, you goal it to push the bolt out of the suspension arm.
Remove lower bolt on shock/spring assembly, you may or may not need to use the floor jack to adjust pressure on the suspension in order to free the bolt.
Unbolt the brake line from the shock, push off the speed sensor lines off the shock.
Look up at the bottom of the upper A arm that's closest to you. See the cotter pin in it. Remove that pin, your not going to be able to reuse it, replace it with a 3/32" by 1" pin on reasembly.
With the cotter pin out loosen the nut above it and turn it about 3 turn's. Since the A arm usually sticks in place on that bolt, you'll need to tap or whack the A arm with a rubber mallet to pop the bolt free. Once you get it free now take the nut off all the way. BUT be carefull once you do, the entire suspension will flop free and to the side, don't get hurt.
Now pop the hood of the car if you haven't already done so. Break free the 3 nuts that secure the top shock mount, removing only 2 nuts. On the 350Z IIRC you might have to remove the strut tower bar, though I could be wrong. Reach into the wheel well with one hand and grab the shock/spring assembly and push upwards while with the other free hand you undo the last upper shock mount bolt.
Guide the shock/spring assembly out of the car. Be very carefull at the fender lip, easy to scratch.
With the shock/spring assembly off the car it's time to deal with getting the spring off the shock. Some Z owner's may elect to not use a spring compressor, be carefull if you do.
When you get to the point of needing to break free the bolt the secures the shock to the shock mount here's how I figured out to break it free even if it's really on their hard.
Use the wrench in the middle of the picture, got mine at Sears 17mm and 19mm.
Use that wrench and a cresent wrench in the following order.
Place the shock/spring assembly on the highest grip surface you can find. Grab the wrench, put your foot on the whole assembly and pull back with as much as it takes to get the nut free.
Hope that helps,
Repeat on the other side of the car of course.
On the rear shocks, since the Koni's to their rebound adjusting from the top you have to be mind full of keeping the adjustment window pointing outwards as you put the oem upper shock mount on. You may find yourself installing the shocks rear shocks only to discover that the adjustment window still isn't pointing in the right direction, be patient and make some adjustments to get it right.
07-29-2006, 08:32 AM
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No no no that is the hard way to do it
Look at this picture...Take the bolts off of the shock, strut bar and arm that is holding the 2 up...If you take off the upper a arm you will most eventually scratch some of your paint off the top of your fender if you never have done it before.
Then follow every other step he gave you except pulling the pin and take out the A arm
Look at this picture...Take the bolts off of the shock, strut bar and arm that is holding the 2 up...If you take off the upper a arm you will most eventually scratch some of your paint off the top of your fender if you never have done it before.
Then follow every other step he gave you except pulling the pin and take out the A arm
07-29-2006, 08:49 AM
#5
Originally Posted by FrickU
No no no that is the hard way to do it
Look at this picture...Take the bolts off of the shock, strut bar and arm that is holding the 2 up...If you take off the upper a arm you will most eventually scratch some of your paint off the top of your fender if you never have done it before.
Then follow every other step he gave you except pulling the pin and take out the A arm
Look at this picture...Take the bolts off of the shock, strut bar and arm that is holding the 2 up...If you take off the upper a arm you will most eventually scratch some of your paint off the top of your fender if you never have done it before.
Then follow every other step he gave you except pulling the pin and take out the A arm
Huh, you proposing to take out the lower arm or the upper A arm, neither of those are easier.
07-29-2006, 09:09 AM
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Thanks guys..I think I now get it little..Another question is will I need spring compressor? Cause I thought I wouldn't be able to take the srping out w/o compressor..I might be wrong..And where can I find the cotter pin? Thanks
07-29-2006, 10:37 PM
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The lower one...Just take out the bolt to the right of the strut bar. Trust me it is so much easier...I install springs, shocks, and coilovers on Z's and G's every week and that is the easiest way to go about it.
And if you are using the stock springs then sometimes you do...It's one of those once in a while things...But if they are aftermarket springs then you just push down on the boot and get the thread started.
And if you are using the stock springs then sometimes you do...It's one of those once in a while things...But if they are aftermarket springs then you just push down on the boot and get the thread started.
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07-30-2006, 10:48 PM
#9
Originally Posted by FrickU
The lower one...Just take out the bolt to the right of the strut bar. Trust me it is so much easier...I install springs, shocks, and coilovers on Z's and G's every week and that is the easiest way to go about it.
And if you are using the stock springs then sometimes you do...It's one of those once in a while things...But if they are aftermarket springs then you just push down on the boot and get the thread started.
And if you are using the stock springs then sometimes you do...It's one of those once in a while things...But if they are aftermarket springs then you just push down on the boot and get the thread started.
We're going to agree to disagree. I've seen several post's of people trying to install the GT Spec front bar that mounts to the same bolt your talking about where they could not loosen the bolt period. I can have the upper arm undone from the upright in the same time or less without every having a fight, which is important when trying to help the masses who likely do not have a impact wrench at their disposal. And I'm not talking from the position of not doing the work that often. I'm wouldn't be able to comment like I do about different setups if I wasn't doing setup changes quite frequently.
08-09-2006, 01:17 PM
#10
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Any reason why you guy's went with the Koni Sports (yellows) instead of the Konis sold by TC Kline. Or is anyone aware these are available and might know the difference in valving and ????
08-09-2006, 02:25 PM
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TC's are twice as much and the Sports are single adjustable were TC's are double adjustable. I have S/A.
I will upgrade to TC's double adjustable when I find the Sports are lossing dampening. So far three years on the shocks with no problems and 25 pluss track days.
I also run T2 springs.
I will upgrade to TC's double adjustable when I find the Sports are lossing dampening. So far three years on the shocks with no problems and 25 pluss track days.
I also run T2 springs.
08-10-2006, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by C Ray Z
TC's are twice as much and the Sports are single adjustable were TC's are double adjustable. I have S/A.
08-10-2006, 10:29 AM
#14
Originally Posted by mberthia
I though their price was four hundred something for the pair of frts and four hundred something for the pair of rears. Sounds like you are saying that they are 400 each corner. So about ~$1,700 for TC Kline vs ~$750 for Sports. Good reason...
08-10-2006, 11:55 AM
#15
Originally Posted by C Ray Z
TC's are twice as much and the Sports are single adjustable were TC's are double adjustable. I have S/A.
I will upgrade to TC's double adjustable when I find the Sports are lossing dampening. So far three years on the shocks with no problems and 25 pluss track days.
I also run T2 springs.
I will upgrade to TC's double adjustable when I find the Sports are lossing dampening. So far three years on the shocks with no problems and 25 pluss track days.
I also run T2 springs.
Ray, are you finding that you should have gone with the DA in the first place? Are you so satisfied with your current spring rates that you'd rather stick with the T2 springs and 'upgrade' to DA vs. trying softer springs and stick with the SA?
Kolia, how do you like your SA's so far? Do you feel like you made a good move? What springs are you running?
08-10-2006, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dnguyent
I'm in this decision boat right now. Go with the SA first or just go straight to the DA. The pricing of the DA sure doesn't help, but it's not really wacked-out expensive either...
Ray, are you finding that you should have gone with the DA in the first place? Are you so satisfied with your current spring rates that you'd rather stick with the T2 springs and 'upgrade' to DA vs. trying softer springs and stick with the SA?
Kolia, how do you like your SA's so far? Do you feel like you made a good move? What springs are you running?
Ray, are you finding that you should have gone with the DA in the first place? Are you so satisfied with your current spring rates that you'd rather stick with the T2 springs and 'upgrade' to DA vs. trying softer springs and stick with the SA?
Kolia, how do you like your SA's so far? Do you feel like you made a good move? What springs are you running?
08-16-2006, 07:37 AM
#19
Originally Posted by mberthia
So how did the Koni's work at Tremblant ?
Also how easy is it to adjust. IE where is the ****?
Also how easy is it to adjust. IE where is the ****?
I’ve adjusted them at +2 rear and half a turn front. Didn’t touch them all week-end. I’m also driving them like that on the street.
The chassis was kept in check all the time, with no nasty surprises ever (look up the video in the Autocross/Road forum). They complement very well the RA1, with limited understeer. I’m very happy with them and glad I could keep my headstrong belief in keeping the OEM sway bars.
I love the car’s balance. Very easy to drive.
As for the adjustment, the fronts are adjusted from the top with the supplied ****. No clearance issue with the OEM strut tower bar.
The rear are adjusted using an allen key to rotate a disc at the top of the damper body. Just jack the rear enough to get your arm between tire and fender and you can reach the adjuster.
That’s it. Well worth the upgrade from a Tokico set IMO.
