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Rear Brake Pad Installation

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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 11:19 AM
  #1  
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Default Rear Brake Pad Installation

Has anyone replaced their rear pads? Are they the same procedure as the fronts. And when you put the new pads in, is it nessasary to grease the pads?


REAR DISC BRAKE (AD14VE TYPE)
C
CAUTION:


Clean dust on caliper and brake pad with a vacuum dust collector. Do not blow with compressed
air.


While removing cylinder body, never depress the brake pedal because the piston will pop out.


It is not necessary to remove bolts on torque member and brake hose except for disassembly or
replacement of the caliper assembly. In this case, hang cylinder body with a wire so that brake
hose is not under tension.


Do not damage piston boot.


Always replace shims and shim covers as a set when replacing brake pads.


Keep the rotor clean of brake fluid.

Removal and Installation of Brake Pad
AFS000YE

REMOVAL
1. Remove tires from vehicle with power tool.
2. Remove sliding pin bold (one on top).
3. Hang cylinder body with a wire, and remove pads, pad retainers, shims from torque member.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease or silicon- based grease to the rear of the pad and to both sides of
the shim, and attach the inner shim and shim cover to the inner pad, and the outer shim and outer shim
cover to the outer pad.
2. Attach the pad retainer and pad to the torque member.
3. Push the piston in so that the pad is firmly attached and attach the cylinder body to the torque member.
NOTE:
Using a disc brake piston tool (commercial service tool), etc., makes it easier to push in the piston.
CAUTION:
By pushing in the piston, the brake fluid returns to the master cylinder reservoir tank. Watch the
level of the surface of the reservoir tank.
4. Attach the sliding pin bolt (one on top) and tighten to the specified torque.
5. Check brake for drag.
6. Attach the tires to the vehicle.

http://www.*********.com/zwiki/Brake_Pad_Installation
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 11:37 AM
  #2  
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rear pads are the same as the front pads....just take your time, i replaced mine at 16k.... no squeaks or nothing with oem pads now at 22k(the old pads were still good for at least 15k more miles)... Good luck.
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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Yeah, The rears last about 10K more miles than the fronts. At the most, you should only have to remove 2 bolts to get your pads replaced on one side. I noticed it was a much tighter fit on the rear than the front when installing my new rear pads. Make sure they are seated all the way down.
Greasing is to reduce noise and vibration. Only do it if that's what you want. I did. It goes between the shim and the back of the pad. For most brakes, the shim is already clipped on the pad. Just pull it off and put grease on the shim, then snap it back on.

edit: 2 bolts for each side.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 07:58 AM
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On most rear disc brakes, you need to twist the piston and screw it in. Unlike the fronts which push in with a C-clamp or similar tool.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by i8acobra
On most rear disc brakes, you need to twist the piston and screw it in. Unlike the fronts which push in with a C-clamp or similar tool.
I've never had to twist mine and I've gone through at least 6 sets of pads or more and swap them before and after the track.
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 02:49 AM
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Speaking of break pads, i need to change my front ones ASAP. Everytime i get done washing my car and drive it, it looks like i sprayed paint my wheels black. Im not trying to hijack this thread but have any of you guys used EBC Brake Rotors??
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 04:29 AM
  #7  
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From: Golden, CO
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Originally Posted by i8acobra
On most rear disc brakes, you need to twist the piston and screw it in. Unlike the fronts which push in with a C-clamp or similar tool.
That usually applies to cars where the parking brake is integrated with the rear caliper. On the Z, the parking brake is a drum brake on the rears, and the piston just pushes straight in.
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