End Links?
#81
Originally Posted by Amiricanmade
Does anyone know what can cause my Endlink to fail? I have only installed Tanabe Springs and APS Test Pipes, so my suspension set-up is not to harsh, yet i think my end links are dead. Also, what procedures can i take before replacing my endlinks to make sure that it is my endlinks that are causing the noise?
#82
Originally Posted by abui01
I'm first in line to test out this product!
After a day of the end link install and solid driving, the swaying came back today (it rained today... more pronounced in the rain)! Swapping out my Hotchkis with the OEM bars... this HAS TO be the reason... perhaps my collars on the Hotchkis bars got loosened overtime. Do you guys happen to know if torque'ing the sway bar bolts too tight might cause anything? I looked at the diagram of the entire rear end assembly, the ONLY 3 things that could sway left to right are:
1. Spring/Shock
2. End Link
3. Sway Bar
End links are absolutely out of the question, even with brand new beefier ones they still sway. The two top bolts on the rear shocks could have came lose, so I would simply need to tighten them down but I made sure those suckers were in TIGHT. The last and only option "untouched" is the swaybar itself, and of course, the swaybar collars. I'll get back to you guys on my findings tomorrow night.
The rear end also has rubber bushings on many components, but I doubt that would cause an entire rear end to shift when hitting small bumps. 350evo sells a set of solid bushings for $1500, but I will definite try out every possible option before shelling out unneeded dough!
After a day of the end link install and solid driving, the swaying came back today (it rained today... more pronounced in the rain)! Swapping out my Hotchkis with the OEM bars... this HAS TO be the reason... perhaps my collars on the Hotchkis bars got loosened overtime. Do you guys happen to know if torque'ing the sway bar bolts too tight might cause anything? I looked at the diagram of the entire rear end assembly, the ONLY 3 things that could sway left to right are:
1. Spring/Shock
2. End Link
3. Sway Bar
End links are absolutely out of the question, even with brand new beefier ones they still sway. The two top bolts on the rear shocks could have came lose, so I would simply need to tighten them down but I made sure those suckers were in TIGHT. The last and only option "untouched" is the swaybar itself, and of course, the swaybar collars. I'll get back to you guys on my findings tomorrow night.
The rear end also has rubber bushings on many components, but I doubt that would cause an entire rear end to shift when hitting small bumps. 350evo sells a set of solid bushings for $1500, but I will definite try out every possible option before shelling out unneeded dough!
#83
Originally Posted by daveh
To accurately take out preload on a swaybar they need to be adjustable.
Even if you have dual adjustable height shocks, you still want to
adjust
this preload at the endlink not the shock length.
Even if you have dual adjustable height shocks, you still want to
adjust
this preload at the endlink not the shock length.
Originally Posted by daveh
Rubber/poly/ect bushings induce more friction and binding into the
suspension system. This is not a good thing to ADD to the suspension
when
upgrading parts.
suspension system. This is not a good thing to ADD to the suspension
when
upgrading parts.
true to a point, but you can really minimize this to the point of it not being an issue by using the right compound of material, the right carrier for the bushing you use, and the right bushing design.
#84
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
it very well may be none of those things. In fact the first thing I'd check is your tires, followed by alignment. I've spent over $1000 in alignments to date on my Z. Primarily because each shop I brought it to swore up and down it was "in spec" only to find out that, in fact, their machines were out of spec and as a result, so were my settings. On a car at stock height with stock size wheels and tires, you've got much more wiggle room. As you lower the car, and push the boundries of suspension geometry with bigger wheels/tires, lower offsets, a perfect alignment becomes far more critical. I now only bring my car to one shop/dealer, in CT (a 2 hour drive for me, though shorter when I take the ferry). My good friend is one of the top techs there (it's a Ferrari/Bugatti/Aston dealer), and their machines are absolutely in perfect spec. After wasting all that money, in 2 hours he dialed the car in perfectly and as a result, he's the only place I use now
I talked to my mechanic about it and he suggested to put back in the OEM swaybar to see if that solved any issues since that was the cause of it in the first place. However, I don't see what could get "worse" with a swaybar, it's pretty much solid unless the bushings go bad or bolts run loose.
Worse comes to worse, I'm going to tear apart the entire rear end, re-torque all the bolts, and move on from there.
#85
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
I've spent over $1000 in alignments to date on my Z. Primarily because each shop I brought it to swore up and down it was "in spec" only to find out that, in fact, their machines were out of spec and as a result, so were my settings.
Abui01, if your car is swaying and moving as bad as you say it is, it sounds like you've got issues beyond your end links. In fact I'm running no sways right now (since tony has my end links) and the car feels fine. Have you checked your wheel bearings? They have been known to be weak points on a tracked car. I am replacing mine this winter as preventative maintenance.
Last edited by daveh; 10-20-2006 at 10:06 AM.
#86
all mine were done on Hunter equipment as well - still does not amount to much because its all down to the person using the machine and whether or not the machine is calibrated to begin with. Garbage in = garbage out
#87
Any recommendations as to what I should do? is there a shop/place i can take my car in to have them look at the endlinks and tell me if i need new ones, of it something in the suspension is loose?
#88
Originally Posted by daveh
This is why I have my car aligned with good old fashioned strings (or lazers). Unitech racing and TC have aligned my car without expensive hunter racks and my car never felt better.
Abui01, if your car is swaying and moving as bad as you say it is, it sounds like you've got issues beyond your end links. In fact I'm running no sways right now (since tony has my end links) and the car feels fine. Have you checked your wheel bearings? They have been known to be weak points on a tracked car. I am replacing mine this winter as preventative maintenance.
Abui01, if your car is swaying and moving as bad as you say it is, it sounds like you've got issues beyond your end links. In fact I'm running no sways right now (since tony has my end links) and the car feels fine. Have you checked your wheel bearings? They have been known to be weak points on a tracked car. I am replacing mine this winter as preventative maintenance.
Okay, So I go back under the car and checked the end links, somehow the driver's side got loosened up within a day of driving. I take out the Hotchkis sway bar and replace it with a Cusco piece, tightened down all the bolts EXTRA EXTRA tight, and the ride has once again magically been restored.... *very stumped at the moment*
POSSIBLE PROBLEM:
I narrowed it down to a few factors. Since the Hotchkis bar provided that extra stiffness to the rear and my tires back there are fairly BALD, any bump in rainy weather may have caused the tires to skid from left to right ever so slightly. It would've caused enough vibration throughout the car to sway the chasis without actually making any "tire skip" noises.
Plans:
I'm gonna drive it around for a few days on the Cusco rear bar to see if there are any changes or if it gets worse again. I'm waiting for the next rainy day to test this theory out, but in the meantime, I'm purchasing new tires since I'll need them anyways.
#89
Okay, after having someone else drive my car, i have deduced that it is no longer my imagination and it is NOT how the car would naturally behave when modded with extra stiff merchandise. I have concluded that it is *bump steer,* and the toe settings need to be adjusted. I googled up definitions on bump steer and the symptoms seem to be what I am exhibiting. Conclusion: Camber Arms. After I installed the SPC camber arms and toe bolts + got an alignment, my mechanic said he couldnt get the rear right wheel to align back to specs, it's currently at -2.1 instead of -1.5 and it points inward. When I drive straight, I notice the car turns ever so slightly to the left. Everytime I hit a bump, it seems to *self steer* itself into a random location. I'm going to get it aligned at the Ferrari dealership since they have tools to dial out bump steer and correct the steering rack and toe angles.
#93
Still in the design phase at the moment. Remember, ours are going to be a CNC'd piece, not just rod ends and bearings that we can assemble from readily available parts, so it will be a little while till we have working prototypes to test out.
#94
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
Still in the design phase at the moment. Remember, ours are going to be a CNC'd piece, not just rod ends and bearings that we can assemble from readily available parts, so it will be a little while till we have working prototypes to test out.
#95
At this point I cannot say how long it will be, nor will I guess - while we want to release them ASAP at the same time, I don't want to rush things for the sake of having "a" product to offer. I'd rather wait until we have something to offer that passes my own standards.
As far as testing, we own 2 heavily modded Z's in house, both which are daily driven, as well as have around 50 local customers, so testing won't be an issue at all.
As far as testing, we own 2 heavily modded Z's in house, both which are daily driven, as well as have around 50 local customers, so testing won't be an issue at all.
#96
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
At this point I cannot say how long it will be, nor will I guess - while we want to release them ASAP at the same time, I don't want to rush things for the sake of having "a" product to offer. I'd rather wait until we have something to offer that passes my own standards.
As far as testing, we own 2 heavily modded Z's in house, both which are daily driven, as well as have around 50 local customers, so testing won't be an issue at all.
As far as testing, we own 2 heavily modded Z's in house, both which are daily driven, as well as have around 50 local customers, so testing won't be an issue at all.
#98
Originally Posted by abui01
Okay, after having someone else drive my car, i have deduced that it is no longer my imagination and it is NOT how the car would naturally behave when modded with extra stiff merchandise. I have concluded that it is *bump steer,* and the toe settings need to be adjusted. I googled up definitions on bump steer and the symptoms seem to be what I am exhibiting. Conclusion: Camber Arms. After I installed the SPC camber arms and toe bolts + got an alignment, my mechanic said he couldnt get the rear right wheel to align back to specs, it's currently at -2.1 instead of -1.5 and it points inward. When I drive straight, I notice the car turns ever so slightly to the left. Everytime I hit a bump, it seems to *self steer* itself into a random location. I'm going to get it aligned at the Ferrari dealership since they have tools to dial out bump steer and correct the steering rack and toe angles.
Last edited by philude; 10-24-2006 at 12:16 PM.
#99
Originally Posted by philude
have you tried replacing the tires? i had the same issues as you, but once i got new tires it all went away. it's worth a try since you've exhausted all your options basically.
#100
I just replaced all 4 of my endlinks on my '04 G35 sedan with the supposed oem beefier links for an '05+ model. The old endlinks were definitely shot and the balljoints moved around too freely. Probably a combo of 4 track days, numerous canyon runs and crappy cali roads. After the install I could immediately tell the car felt much more solid and the slop had gone away. But the question is how long will these new oem end links last? Would be nice to go with a solid aftermarket end link that can take abuse.