2nd Time Steering wheel vibration with braking
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From: ORIGINALLY newark,NJ NOW atl
2nd Time Steering wheel vibration with braking
So in February I changed out my front rotors on my track model Z with stoptech slotted rotors and changed the pads to Endless Vita Nuova's. About June I started having moderate steering wheel vibration when braking from any speed over 40 or so. In early August I got Nissan to cut the front rotors and they did and this solved the issue UNTIL about 3 weeks ago when it came back AGAIN. Its now almost a little worse than the last time in June-July, So I assume it is the brake pads causing issues with these rotors. I have bought OEM brembo pads so that I know for sure these don't cause abrasivness to the rotors, and tomorrow I am getting the rotors cut again (if possible) and getting them to change the pads from the Endless to the OEM's......Should this solve the issue??
Only two things can cause a warped rotor, which is the issue your having. One is heat from excessively hard braking or improper torque specs when tightening the wheels. When you hit the brakes hard especially at a high speed it doesn't take long to heat up that rotor. Ever seen a indy car when the rotors are red hot, thats why. If you don't give the rotor ample time to cool it bends it. Ever have a frying pan that doesn't sit completely flat on a stove??? Well same effect with that...it has gotten hot and warped. Remember everytime you machine those rotors your taking away metal which gives the rotor less mass to disapate(sp) heat. 99% of the time, its driving conditions that are causing the warped rotor. Changing brake pad may/may not help some...but i doubt it.
Bill
Bill
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From: ORIGINALLY newark,NJ NOW atl
It basically has to be the pad i'd assume, cuz this problem didn't arrise till I CHANGED the rotors and pads at the same time. I never had the problem before changing the rotors.....And when the resurfaced the rotors the first time the problem was 100% solved for 2.5 months, so I think the pads have gone bad....
Besides a warped rotor, it could just be uneven pad deposit layers on his rotors which in that case would not necessitate cutting the rotors. For this case you could just rent an aggressive race type pad from Stoptech and follow their driving procedures to remove your uneven deposits.
Originally Posted by StopTech
My car judders when I apply the brakes, what can I do to fix it?
In order to understand the likely cause of the judder, please see the FAQ relating to un-even pad deposition. OK, now that you hopefully better understand why the steering wheel is shaking out of your hand, what can be done to cure it? Turning the rotors will take care of it, but you will be shortening the life of the rotor and decreasing its ability to absorb and control heat, as there will be less mass in the rotor after turning. Also, turning a 2-piece rotor that uses floating attachment hardware between the rotor and hat can be tricky. We have had very good success running an aggressive track pad at lower temperatures on the street in order to scrub off the rotor surface. We have found the Hawk Blue 9012 race pad to be very effective. At lower temperatures it is very ABRASIVE, not becoming ADHERENT until it reaches it's optimal operating temperature. If it is used with a few firm stops at a time, not getting too hot (we want to remove material, not transfer more), it will often remove the source of vibration. A WARNING: Do not leave an abrasive pad in the caliper longer than necessary to solve the problem. We have had rotors destroyed in under a week by leaving the abrasive track pads in on the street.
In order to understand the likely cause of the judder, please see the FAQ relating to un-even pad deposition. OK, now that you hopefully better understand why the steering wheel is shaking out of your hand, what can be done to cure it? Turning the rotors will take care of it, but you will be shortening the life of the rotor and decreasing its ability to absorb and control heat, as there will be less mass in the rotor after turning. Also, turning a 2-piece rotor that uses floating attachment hardware between the rotor and hat can be tricky. We have had very good success running an aggressive track pad at lower temperatures on the street in order to scrub off the rotor surface. We have found the Hawk Blue 9012 race pad to be very effective. At lower temperatures it is very ABRASIVE, not becoming ADHERENT until it reaches it's optimal operating temperature. If it is used with a few firm stops at a time, not getting too hot (we want to remove material, not transfer more), it will often remove the source of vibration. A WARNING: Do not leave an abrasive pad in the caliper longer than necessary to solve the problem. We have had rotors destroyed in under a week by leaving the abrasive track pads in on the street.
"We have had very good success running an aggressive track pad at lower temperatures on the street in order to scrub off the rotor surface. We have found the Hawk Blue 9012 race pad to be very effective. At lower temperatures it is very ABRASIVE, not becoming ADHERENT until it reaches it's optimal operating temperature. If it is used with a few firm stops at a time, not getting too hot (we want to remove material, not transfer more), it will often remove the source of vibration."
So instead of machining the rotor, they are basically using an abrasive racing brake pad to "clean" the surface. I see how that could help yes, but how is that going to prevent his constant warping problem? Can you imagine putting on a set of brakes for a "few firm stops" then having to go back to the ones you were just using? hahah, just use a Rolo-disc.
happy braking
So instead of machining the rotor, they are basically using an abrasive racing brake pad to "clean" the surface. I see how that could help yes, but how is that going to prevent his constant warping problem? Can you imagine putting on a set of brakes for a "few firm stops" then having to go back to the ones you were just using? hahah, just use a Rolo-disc.
happy braking
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From: Marietta, Georgia
Easy to set a brake lathe in 0.0005" increments if you take time to be precise.
Feelable vibrations are usually in excess of 0.003" 6 times the minimum resolution.
Inexpensive quick and dirty [by a low cost employee] DICTATES that you must over cut and do so only once to charge so little.
When I true my rotors many times I do 3 very fine cuts per rotor removing the absolute minimum and NOTHING EXTRA!
This kind of precision might triple the time and cost per rotor.
PERFECTION IS EXPENSIVE.
Feelable vibrations are usually in excess of 0.003" 6 times the minimum resolution.
Inexpensive quick and dirty [by a low cost employee] DICTATES that you must over cut and do so only once to charge so little.
When I true my rotors many times I do 3 very fine cuts per rotor removing the absolute minimum and NOTHING EXTRA!
This kind of precision might triple the time and cost per rotor.
PERFECTION IS EXPENSIVE.
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From: Albany, GA
Here is a great paper to read about the myth of "warped rotors". Stoptech also gives you easy ways to solve your uneven pad deposites on your rotors.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
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