I need some springs that will give me atleast a 1.0 drop all around WITHOUT the use of a camber kit and pretty stiff ride one close to stock or even better.
Thanks

 

I like my Hotchkis. There are several people here that use them.

 

yeah ive seen alot of hotchkis around..whats the drop on them?

 

Tanabe GF210

 

Tanabe GF210 is the way to go. I've sold many, many sets of those springs and I have heard zero complaints

 

Thanks alot i been looking at the GF210 as well and wasnt sure about them, but now .

 

dont be too happy just yet. although some ppl are able to get back in spec after an alignment, a lot of ppl have camber issues with GF210. it's really a case by case thing, but aside from that everything about the spring is great. i love it's drop, so i'm willing to take the gamble.

 

What kind of problem are people having with the GF210's?

 

excessive negative camber and inner tire wear

 

no one is going to be able to answer this

the need or lack of need for camber kit is dependant not only on the drop, but on the wheel are tire combo. Without knowing that info, there is no way at all to say if you will or will not need a camber kit. The farther out you sit the wheel and tire, the more camber correction will be needed

 

So a three inch drop with bicycle tires would be perfect.

 

They say 1/2" front, 3/4" rear. The fronts are stiffer than stock by like 15% and the rears are softer than stock by a hair. The softer rear takes the bounce out of sharp turns and helps ride quality.

I think the Hotckis are probably the mildest springs available. Great ride quality with a nice improvement in cornering...but they would be better if they were 1/2" lower.

 

Hotchkis or TEIN are what we use on most of our cars.

 

The Swift springs are some of the stiffer sets available with .8" drop in the front and only .6" drop in the rear. My front camber was -1.1 and my rear was -2.3 and -1.9 uncorrected. I bought the SPC rear control arms and set my rear camber at -1 on both sides. If you're worried about needing a camber kit, I'd say too bad and suggest you get one regardless of the spring you go with. Look at an additional $200 for the camber arms and another $125 for an alignment. Do it right the first time, forget about "can I run this spring without camber arms", just get the springs that have the drop and spring rate you want.

 

Well inner tire wear will result with excessive camber, that comes hand in hand.

I don't understand why everyone makes a huge deal about camber, it IMPROVES handling until a certain point. It's not like you can run -7 degrees and expect to have the best handling machine on the track.

Just keep flipping those tires. In reality the camber "issue" you will see as a result on stock size wheels + Tanabe GF210 is not a big deal at all. In fact, message some people on the boards and ask them if they run a camber kit on their Tanabe GF210's. I bet you most will say nope, no need

Swift is another one I forgot about, that's also another great alternative if you want to stay in spec. But IMO, I think the GF210 drop is perfect and still leaves you with little to worry about in terms of camber

 

Oh and if you search on the boards, someone already made a camber curve on a plotted graph.

It will tell you the amount of negative camber in relation to the vehicle's height.

 

so would I have any problems running the GF210's with stock 17's? Im torn between them and the S. Techs

 

I truely believe that Tanabe is the way to go. While you may not hear it and there has been no published reports, Tein springs sometimes have had problems with inconsistant spring rates at all 4 corners. Something that you will not find with Tanabe.

Now when the springs were tested and the Tein's were knockoffs, who knows.

I still love Tanabe, and the majority of the people who buy Tanabe never look back.

 

Actually you will most definately will find just such a inconsistantcy in the GF210's. They are progressive and at a certain point in wheel travel, the softer coil's bind and rate change takes effect. Not the sort of thing you want to happen when any given tire has reached max adheasion or if you start to loose it and your yawing on diffeirng rates and you drop the throttle. H-tech's are all linear, S-tech's are slightly progressive front, linear rear.

I recommend Hotchkis. DJShan209, if you need any help on install, pm me.

Also, these car's fair much better on inner tire wear when we do things that control body roll. Stick with nothing but not so firm aftermarket springs and the tires will roll over and play dead in the inside threads.

 

Very good points, however, for street, I doubt you would even notice. If you are tracking, just changing springs isn't going to cut it