New Springs...
#1
New Springs...
I am currently using the Tanabe GF-210 springs, and I been very happy with these springs. I did this upgrade about a year ago, along with Stillen rear camber and toe linkages, and the 350Evo front camber A-arms. Well, I have been running -1.4 camber up front, but my rear (even with the aftermarket adjustables) is still limited to about a -2.5 camber I have even called Stillen and because my rear drop is 1.2 inches (1 inch front), it is too much to still be able to align the rear properly. Basically the toe ajustment is the limitation, etc. etc. but I would end up with my rear wheels/tires almost rubbing the front of the wheel well if I were able to adjust the camber AND toe enough.
Point is, I want to change my springs. I am thinking Tein S-tecs or Hotchkis, both drop roughly about 3/4 of an inch all the way around. The difference is, the Hotchkis actually soften the rear (no idea why) and the Tein's are way stiffer all the way around. Which ones would you recommend I switch to? I want -1.0 rear camber or as close to that as I can get. I also would prefer linear springs this time around, which I think both of these are.
Thanks in advance.
Point is, I want to change my springs. I am thinking Tein S-tecs or Hotchkis, both drop roughly about 3/4 of an inch all the way around. The difference is, the Hotchkis actually soften the rear (no idea why) and the Tein's are way stiffer all the way around. Which ones would you recommend I switch to? I want -1.0 rear camber or as close to that as I can get. I also would prefer linear springs this time around, which I think both of these are.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Here are some photos, as you can see the outer like 2 inches of my rear tires aren't even on the ground when I am not cornering. I can improve my traction/launch by correcting this (those are 275/35R18 tires).
#3
Well, here's the deal - you need to put back on the oem radius rod. That's what some questionable manufacturers call a toe link - it is not. Toe is adjusted with the bolt on the rear lower link (that is the link the rear spring sits in). If you replace the radius rod with a "toe link", you'll change the rear supension geometry in a bad way (which you are experiencing). To get more toe adjustment, you'll need different toe bolts. In all honesty though, with those springs you should be able to get back into spec with the oem setup.
Last edited by arizzee; 02-09-2007 at 12:24 PM.
#4
Originally Posted by arizzee
Well, here's the deal - you need to put back on the oem radius rod. That's what some questionable manufacturers call a toe link - it is not. Toe is adjusted with the bolt on the rear lower link (that is the link the rear spring sits in). If you replace the radius rod with a "toe link", you'll change the rear supension geometry in a bad way (which you are experiencing). To get more toe adjustment, you'll need different toe bolts. In all honesty though, with those springs you should be able to get back into spec with the oem setup.
#5
I think you should get the tanabe-gf210's those are great springs that im about to install on my car. However, i listen to people on this site and their suggestions so i deserve to have a really nice set of springs. My suggestion is you need to sell your car and buy a honda civic.
#6
Originally Posted by xephiron
ok, so which linear springs are you suggesting I get? I didn't catch that part in your response.
Last edited by arizzee; 02-10-2007 at 05:43 PM.
#7
Swift Springs bro. Do your homework on them, and you'll know why theyre a little bit more expensive than the rest. According to Swift, their springs do not sag over time. They use a different material than what everyone else is using. BTW, they are made in Japan in case you're a JDM *****. Linear, and .6" drop in rear, .8" drop in front.
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#8
Originally Posted by ctwentytwo
Swift Springs bro. Do your homework on them, and you'll know why theyre a little bit more expensive than the rest. According to Swift, their springs do not sag over time. They use a different material than what everyone else is using. BTW, they are made in Japan in case you're a JDM *****. Linear, and .6" drop in rear, .8" drop in front.
#9
Originally Posted by xephiron
Thanks, I think I agree with you on these springs... seem top notch and about where I want to be drop/rate wise. Maybe with these I can get the -1.0 rear camber I was shooting for.
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