GT Spec Rear Braces: Bolts Too Short
#22
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Originally Posted by Asterix
Minimum thread is easy: as much as the diameter of the bolt. For example, a 8mm bolt with 1.25mm pitch threads needs 8/1.25 or 6.4 turns. M12x1.75 needs 12/1.75 or 6.8 turns. Measure the bolt and you'll know. It also tends to be the thickness of the nut.
Asterix
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#23
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I have my front and rear tie bars on with no washers and no issues. I don't see the point of those thick-@ss washers.
I'm about to pick up the V2 rear lower tie bar, since it is finally available and I don't plan on using the washers for it either. The issue of the nolts being too short has bee around as long as these bars. Some guys just don't run the washers, others use them and just deal with the nut not grabbing all the threads and they have not seemed to have any issues.
I'm about to pick up the V2 rear lower tie bar, since it is finally available and I don't plan on using the washers for it either. The issue of the nolts being too short has bee around as long as these bars. Some guys just don't run the washers, others use them and just deal with the nut not grabbing all the threads and they have not seemed to have any issues.
#25
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Originally Posted by MustGoFastR
I have my front and rear tie bars on with no washers and no issues. I don't see the point of those thick-@ss washers.
Maybe someone should market the longer bolts, based on a greater strength (more threads engaged) and margin of safety. In every picture I've seen on this site of the installed rear braces it appears that only about 1/2 the threads on the nut are engaged. I don't know how many turns (revolutions of the nut) that represents, but I wonder if that gives sufficient factor of safety.
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Originally Posted by NCPG
Thanks. I'm not certain of the diameter of that bolt. I had heard that '08 Pathfinders used a similar, but longer bolt. I have not been able to confirm that. If so, that would be a solution.
Greg
#27
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Originally Posted by NCPG
I was told that the washers keeps the harder nut from galling the softer metal of the brace, as the nut is torqued down.
Maybe someone should market the longer bolts, based on a greater strength (more threads engaged) and margin of safety. In every picture I've seen on this site of the installed rear braces it appears that only about 1/2 the threads on the nut are engaged.
Maybe someone should market the longer bolts, based on a greater strength (more threads engaged) and margin of safety. In every picture I've seen on this site of the installed rear braces it appears that only about 1/2 the threads on the nut are engaged.
If there are at least three turns into the nut, you're probably fine. I wouldn't feel comfortable with that, but that's just me.
The washer is indeed there partly to keep the softer metal under the nut from being crushed.
Asterix
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Just installed the rear tie bar with no problems.
Those washers are a joke. They are the same size as the nut so I saw no point in installing them.
I had read this thread prior to the install and worried about the nut not being completely on the bolt. This can cause problems down the road. Without using the washers and torquing the nut to spec it fit completely on the bolt.
I drove to work this morning, about 30min on bad NC roads and took a look, everything looked great.
Those washers are a joke. They are the same size as the nut so I saw no point in installing them.
I had read this thread prior to the install and worried about the nut not being completely on the bolt. This can cause problems down the road. Without using the washers and torquing the nut to spec it fit completely on the bolt.
I drove to work this morning, about 30min on bad NC roads and took a look, everything looked great.
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I bought the megan toe brace and with the washer in place its definately short. I took it to oreilly's no luck. I have the locking nuts on there because I bought the circuit sport toe arms (bucket delete) and dont want to get rid of that. I think Im just gonna sell if the brace if I can't find a longer toe bolts.
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I'm using the SPC toe bolts, and the GT Spec brace, and i haven't had a problem. The bolt was only just long enough, but it worked.
I've tracked the car at least half a dozen times since, and no problems so far.
I've tracked the car at least half a dozen times since, and no problems so far.
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If you make your own lock out washers you can use bolts that are longer........
LOCK OUT WASHERS:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293615-post20.html
REAR CAMBER:
at the camber arm location, if you have a brace there, you can use lock out washers, if you have an adjustable camber arm.
REAR TOE:
at the toe (spring bucket) you cant unless you have spl's midlink to adjust toe.
or
Toe arms (spring bucket delete) IF you have true coilovers.
OR,
NISSAN SUV/TRUCK SPC BOLTS:
you can go to O-reilly, and buy SPC toe bolts for a Nissan Titan, frontier or Xterra...
trace the eccentric over and get your dremel out and make the eccentrics on the trucks listed match down to the size the Z needs..
these bolts are way longer and will work, but will need to cut them down. to cut them, put a spare nut on first, then cut, and back the nut out to "fix" the thread end....
have fun...
-J
LOCK OUT WASHERS:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293615-post20.html
REAR CAMBER:
at the camber arm location, if you have a brace there, you can use lock out washers, if you have an adjustable camber arm.
REAR TOE:
at the toe (spring bucket) you cant unless you have spl's midlink to adjust toe.
or
Toe arms (spring bucket delete) IF you have true coilovers.
OR,
NISSAN SUV/TRUCK SPC BOLTS:
you can go to O-reilly, and buy SPC toe bolts for a Nissan Titan, frontier or Xterra...
trace the eccentric over and get your dremel out and make the eccentrics on the trucks listed match down to the size the Z needs..
these bolts are way longer and will work, but will need to cut them down. to cut them, put a spare nut on first, then cut, and back the nut out to "fix" the thread end....
have fun...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 10-05-2010 at 07:44 AM.
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[QUOTE= to cut them, put a spare nut on first, then cut, and back the nut out to "fix" the thread end....
have fun...
-J[/QUOTE]
thats a good idea, ill have to remember that trick next time i have to cut bolts down, sure beats fixing them with a file
have fun...
-J[/QUOTE]
thats a good idea, ill have to remember that trick next time i have to cut bolts down, sure beats fixing them with a file
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Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 10-06-2010 at 04:55 AM.