Fastbrakes.com Wilwood kit fits under stock 03 18" rims?
Nice car Maximum! I didn't have the budget to go 6pot/4pot front/rear, so I ordered Brian's newest assembly, the $850 4-pot front kit with Brembo-sized rotors.
350Z84: I just received the kit today, haven't even checked it out yet since it arrived at my place and I am not home. I will take some pics when I get home tonight. I plan to put the brakes in on Sunday, will have pics when finished. Hopefully everything go smoothly, just like it has so far
350Z84: I just received the kit today, haven't even checked it out yet since it arrived at my place and I am not home. I will take some pics when I get home tonight. I plan to put the brakes in on Sunday, will have pics when finished. Hopefully everything go smoothly, just like it has so far
which brake kit would be better? the 4 pot with 13.25" rotors or the 6 pot with the 12.76" rotors, the difference in price is only one hundred. are the 4 pot with the track Z rotors a direct bolt on to a non bembo Z? thanks
HERE ARE THE PICS, 56K PEOPLE WATCH OUT!!!!
Brake pads, adapters, bolts and nuts
Stainless steel braided brake lines (not sure of manufacturer)
4-pot Forged Superlite Wilwood front calipers
Slotted & Cross-drilled front Brembo-sized rotors (12.78" x 1.18", an increase of 1.11" x .0.23" over the stock non-Brembo rotors)
Brake pads, adapters, bolts and nuts
Stainless steel braided brake lines (not sure of manufacturer)
4-pot Forged Superlite Wilwood front calipers
Slotted & Cross-drilled front Brembo-sized rotors (12.78" x 1.18", an increase of 1.11" x .0.23" over the stock non-Brembo rotors)
Ahh, and to Brian at Fastbrakes.com, great customer service, prompt shipping time, parts are all there (I haven't counted nuts, bolts, washers yet but I think they are all there as well). Great seller to deal with.
Post it up!
Hey guys,
I've installed them on Sunday (3 days ago). Pulled out of the driveway onto the street and everything was ok. Came to a stop sign and the brakes start squealing. And I mean SQUEALING...just as loud as the sound that comes from an 18 wheeler coming to a stop next to you. I drove around the block a bit but the EXTREMELY LOUD SQUEALING wouldn't stop. So I drove home and parked it till today (July 4).
It's my day off today and instead of going to the beache, I am currently checking over the brakes to see what could be causing the noises.
If anyone got some tips regarding the noises, let me know. I will do the bedding procedure afterwards but my gawd, the squealing is JUST GOD AWFUL...
Other than the noise, the brakes are pretty much bolt-on. Nothing special, except my father, being the extremely picky person that he is, proceeds to spend 2 hours on Sunday customizing some plastic brackets to hold the stainless steel lines
Driving wise, nothing different either. I didn't really step on it or anything, but the car stops just as well as stock, no surprises. It's just making some crazy noise!
I will put up more pics shortly.
I've installed them on Sunday (3 days ago). Pulled out of the driveway onto the street and everything was ok. Came to a stop sign and the brakes start squealing. And I mean SQUEALING...just as loud as the sound that comes from an 18 wheeler coming to a stop next to you. I drove around the block a bit but the EXTREMELY LOUD SQUEALING wouldn't stop. So I drove home and parked it till today (July 4).
It's my day off today and instead of going to the beache, I am currently checking over the brakes to see what could be causing the noises.
If anyone got some tips regarding the noises, let me know. I will do the bedding procedure afterwards but my gawd, the squealing is JUST GOD AWFUL...
Other than the noise, the brakes are pretty much bolt-on. Nothing special, except my father, being the extremely picky person that he is, proceeds to spend 2 hours on Sunday customizing some plastic brackets to hold the stainless steel lines
Driving wise, nothing different either. I didn't really step on it or anything, but the car stops just as well as stock, no surprises. It's just making some crazy noise!
I will put up more pics shortly.
Last edited by archspeed; Jul 4, 2007 at 12:31 PM.
^^Did you bed them in properly? (burnishing--proper application of even pad material on the rotor?)--accomplished by 8 or so 60 to 10 mph decceleration runs w/ a 20 minute cooldown of regular driving w/out unnecessary stopping--which could leave uneven pad deposits on the rotors.
There will certainly be more noise created when upgraded to almost any BBK w/ 2 piece rotors. Other than bedding the brakes in properly, the only recommendation I can think of is possibly selecting a different set of pads that might not be prone to making excessive noise w/ the particular kind of rotors you have.
I see the Hawk pads are carbon--do you know the material of the rotor?
There will certainly be more noise created when upgraded to almost any BBK w/ 2 piece rotors. Other than bedding the brakes in properly, the only recommendation I can think of is possibly selecting a different set of pads that might not be prone to making excessive noise w/ the particular kind of rotors you have.
I see the Hawk pads are carbon--do you know the material of the rotor?
I'm back. Happy to report, I got rid of most of the noise! 
thanks for the tips guys! As you can read below, I used all the tips!!!
The pads are Hawk HPS, ferro carbon. The rotors are from Centric's C-Tek line. I'm not sure what they're made of, but they look OK, so as long as the rotors perform like OEM, I'm happy.
My father and I took apart the calipers again, installed them with some extra shims to make sure the rotor is aligned centered against the caliper's centerline. Then we put disk brake quiet anti-squeal on the back of the Hawk pads. We also switch the rotors side to side (so this time the end of the slot near the rotor's center will come in contact with the caliper first). Then we re-installed everything.
I took it out. Hmm..still squeaking quite a bit, still loud, but not 18-wheeler loud like on Sunday.
I took the Z to a small road in the back of my place and bedded the brakes. I did 10 stops fro 60-to-10-mph, then drive around the small road around 10 minutes without using any braking and driving very slowly, then a second set of 60-to-10-mph, then another 10 minutes of cool-down driving, then a third set at 80-to-10-mph, followed by another 10 minutes of cool-down, and then I went home.
The bedding seem to did it. The noise is still there, still noticeable but much much tolerable now. It's a very small squeal now and it depends on how I brake. In general, I can usually get the brakes to not emit any noises, occasionally I can hear a 4-second squeal. Very tolerable.
Driving impression:
- Pedal is firmer.
- ABS still works. Nice.
- No rear brake lockup. Defnitely a change in brake bias occurred with the BBK, but looks to be within my limit. So far, so good.
- Stopping distance seems to be the same as before (the stock non-Brembo brakes are no slouch) with a few initial braking.
- Stopping distance is a lot better than before after repeated braking, obviously due to the BBK's increased handling of heat.
During the 80-to-10 mph braking routine, the fade is gone. When I changed out my Hawk HPS last year, I did the same bedding routine. During the last half of the 80-to-10 mph routine, the stock brakes would fade noticeably. I would brake hard and the speed would go down fast and then the last 30mph the brakes would start becoming a bit mushy and it would "drag" before coming down to 10mph.
Now, I don't feel that drag anymore. Just smooth, consistent stops, one after the other. Feels great!
Total expenses: $870 (shipping included).
Extra shims: $5
Labor: 2 days worth, about 10 hours in total. That's with my Pop being a picky pie and for the fact that we practically did two installs when we had to reassemble the caliper/rotors again today
If you know what you are doing, and you know how you're going to install the stainless steel lines, you'd only need 3 hours.
thanks for the tips guys! As you can read below, I used all the tips!!!The pads are Hawk HPS, ferro carbon. The rotors are from Centric's C-Tek line. I'm not sure what they're made of, but they look OK, so as long as the rotors perform like OEM, I'm happy.
My father and I took apart the calipers again, installed them with some extra shims to make sure the rotor is aligned centered against the caliper's centerline. Then we put disk brake quiet anti-squeal on the back of the Hawk pads. We also switch the rotors side to side (so this time the end of the slot near the rotor's center will come in contact with the caliper first). Then we re-installed everything.
I took it out. Hmm..still squeaking quite a bit, still loud, but not 18-wheeler loud like on Sunday.
I took the Z to a small road in the back of my place and bedded the brakes. I did 10 stops fro 60-to-10-mph, then drive around the small road around 10 minutes without using any braking and driving very slowly, then a second set of 60-to-10-mph, then another 10 minutes of cool-down driving, then a third set at 80-to-10-mph, followed by another 10 minutes of cool-down, and then I went home.
The bedding seem to did it. The noise is still there, still noticeable but much much tolerable now. It's a very small squeal now and it depends on how I brake. In general, I can usually get the brakes to not emit any noises, occasionally I can hear a 4-second squeal. Very tolerable.
Driving impression:
- Pedal is firmer.
- ABS still works. Nice.
- No rear brake lockup. Defnitely a change in brake bias occurred with the BBK, but looks to be within my limit. So far, so good.
- Stopping distance seems to be the same as before (the stock non-Brembo brakes are no slouch) with a few initial braking.
- Stopping distance is a lot better than before after repeated braking, obviously due to the BBK's increased handling of heat.
During the 80-to-10 mph braking routine, the fade is gone. When I changed out my Hawk HPS last year, I did the same bedding routine. During the last half of the 80-to-10 mph routine, the stock brakes would fade noticeably. I would brake hard and the speed would go down fast and then the last 30mph the brakes would start becoming a bit mushy and it would "drag" before coming down to 10mph.
Now, I don't feel that drag anymore. Just smooth, consistent stops, one after the other. Feels great!
Total expenses: $870 (shipping included).
Extra shims: $5
Labor: 2 days worth, about 10 hours in total. That's with my Pop being a picky pie and for the fact that we practically did two installs when we had to reassemble the caliper/rotors again today
If you know what you are doing, and you know how you're going to install the stainless steel lines, you'd only need 3 hours.
Last edited by archspeed; Jul 4, 2007 at 04:27 PM.
!!
You might want to call Brian and speak with him about these pic at length.
There's something very wrong with what you have.
The pistons in no way should be nearly half way exposed at this point. When those pads wear down you'll run out of piston and come out or leak severely. In addition such piston extension will soon result in pad wear issues and sticking or release problems as they will become very crooked in the bore and possibly damage the caliper body.
You either have the wrong caliper width for the application, or the wrong pads. The pads you should have are .800 (20m) thick. If your pads are only .620 (16mm) thick you have pads for a narrow body six pot. At the very least your calipers need to be fit with fat spacer plates.
Not my kit I know, but don't say you were not told.
You might want to call Brian and speak with him about these pic at length.
There's something very wrong with what you have.
The pistons in no way should be nearly half way exposed at this point. When those pads wear down you'll run out of piston and come out or leak severely. In addition such piston extension will soon result in pad wear issues and sticking or release problems as they will become very crooked in the bore and possibly damage the caliper body.
You either have the wrong caliper width for the application, or the wrong pads. The pads you should have are .800 (20m) thick. If your pads are only .620 (16mm) thick you have pads for a narrow body six pot. At the very least your calipers need to be fit with fat spacer plates.
Not my kit I know, but don't say you were not told.
Originally Posted by Todd TCE
!!
You might want to call Brian and speak with him about these pic at length.
There's something very wrong with what you have.
The pistons in no way should be nearly half way exposed at this point. When those pads wear down you'll run out of piston and come out or leak severely. In addition such piston extension will soon result in pad wear issues and sticking or release problems as they will become very crooked in the bore and possibly damage the caliper body.
You either have the wrong caliper width for the application, or the wrong pads. The pads you should have are .800 (20m) thick. If your pads are only .620 (16mm) thick you have pads for a narrow body six pot. At the very least your calipers need to be fit with fat spacer plates.
Not my kit I know, but don't say you were not told.
You might want to call Brian and speak with him about these pic at length.
There's something very wrong with what you have.
The pistons in no way should be nearly half way exposed at this point. When those pads wear down you'll run out of piston and come out or leak severely. In addition such piston extension will soon result in pad wear issues and sticking or release problems as they will become very crooked in the bore and possibly damage the caliper body.
You either have the wrong caliper width for the application, or the wrong pads. The pads you should have are .800 (20m) thick. If your pads are only .620 (16mm) thick you have pads for a narrow body six pot. At the very least your calipers need to be fit with fat spacer plates.
Not my kit I know, but don't say you were not told.
+1
...and get a real jack and jackstands. If the brakes don't get you, that OEM jack very well may.
Originally Posted by teh215
+1
...and get a real jack and jackstands. If the brakes don't get you, that OEM jack very well may.
...and get a real jack and jackstands. If the brakes don't get you, that OEM jack very well may.
I also have a gigantic orange jack, but this didn't require it.
Thanks Todd! Some really great advices, considering that I skimped out on your products, you didn't dick out and still gave me great tips! I really appreciate the sincerity, I mean it
I know that buying this kit, I get what I pay for. My father had the same comments as you, especially regarding how much the pistons have moved out of their slots. I'll be really careful and see what happens. I'll take some of your suggestions to mind as well. Will see what I can do in the future
Now that you pointed out, I remember the pads are .620 thick. Maybe I will go for a thicker pad or at the least figure out a way to fit some spacers so the pistons won't have to come out that much.
Last edited by archspeed; Jul 5, 2007 at 08:57 AM.