I was thinking of changing to a BBK, but i wasn't so sure on which type of rotors i should get, should i go for drilled, slotted, both, or neither? help me out guys....

 

Wrong forum...

I swear by plane rotors coupled with the appropriate pad for the application. You'll get the maximum possible torque from the most surface contact and best durability of both rotor and pad.

Slots are debatable, but a killer on pads. If you want to track with street pads, they might help a bit. Your pads will be gone in a a few sessions at the track thought.

Drilled holes are a big no no in any situation.

 

+1

 

hmm i like both idk how drilled is a big no no but when porsche uses em but ok

 

Those are cast, not drilled holes.

 

+1, but they still share the same tennancies to break. The general rule is that drilled rotos provide better cooling of the breaks, while slotting generates heat quicker to allow the compound in your break pads to perform at their maximum capacity. I've never been a fan of drilled rotos, and drilled and slotted rotos are just plain stupid (counter productive)lol.

 

And allow gas that is created from the rubbing of pad and rotor to escape (venting). A rotor that has cast holes is FAR less likely to crack than a rotor with drilled holes. Slotted isn't designed to heat your pad up faster, it's designed to essentially 'shave' your pad so that if your pad becomes glazed over from heat it can scrape it off and get to a fresh part of the pad.

 

Dam... I Learn Somethin New Everyday, This Thread Just Saved My *** From Purchasing A Mistake, Thanks.

 

Good info.

 

for looks = Drilled/Slotted
for track = Slotted
for normal driving = Neither

 

Thanks for the info.. I am also looking for a BBK and was wondering which is the better setup for the street. Thanks again.

Could anyone tell me what is the "smallest" BBK on the market? It sounds like an oxy-moron, but i want to upgrade to a smaller big brake kit, but my Z is only used for street driving. A little off topic, i know... Thanks in advance

 

Look into purchasing a used oem brembo setup..best bang for your buck street/auto-x combo..with the right pads and ss brake lines and good fluid you will have an awesome combo.

 

+1, could not have said it any better...

 

I must disagree with your track statement.

For track = Plain rotors with track pads.

Never have had any pad fade with the right pads. A street pads performance envelloppe might be extended enough for AutoX with slotted rotors. But on a road course it will just make a mess of things. Boiled fluid, melted boots, smeared rotors, pads worned to the backing plates, pants soiled...

 

You guys are going way overboard on some of these statements.

First off, on a street only car, any rotor finish will be fine. If you really like the look of drilled, go for it if it makes you happy. Will the pads wear a little quicker? Yes, but not so much that you will be changing them exsessively or even have to worry about it. In many cases, the increased pad volume of a BBK will mean that your pads will last much longer than stock no matter what rotor finish you choose.

If you are tracking your car, go with slotted. They will hold up much better to high temps and will be more resistant to cracking than the drilled. A properly slotted rotor that does not have the slot going out to the outer edge and has tapered slots will last nearly as long as a plain rotor with regards to cracking. Again, slotted rotors will increasse pad wear to a degree but it is really not something that is significant to worry about.

For the record, NONE of our race teams use blank rotors. We are talking about race and championship winning production based cars in World Challenge TC and GT and Grand Am cup Koni Challenge. Many of these teams will only use 2 sets of rotors in an entire season which includes all of their practice and testing. The TriPoint Mazdas who have absolutely dominated World Challenge TC are running drilled rotors of all things (GASP!) and they are doing just fine. At the end of the day, the rotors are secondary to proper pad selection and adequate brake cooling when things start to get serious.

As to the statement about Porsche using cast holes, it has not been proven and Porsche engineers have even posted that they are drilled at the foundry. The ONLY reason porsche sells cars with drilled rotors is for appearance purposes and the race car look they offer.

 

Why would slotted rotors cause boiled fluid, melted boots, etc over a blank rotor? A slotted rotor has more surface area than a blank, so in theory it should cool faster, but definitely shouldn't run hotter. As for pads worn to the backing plates, that can happen to ANY brake/rotor setup if you don't tech your car. Yeah slots will eat pads faster but it wont be over night...Plus it makes up for it with more bite and new pad surface every time you brake. A lot of the people I know who track use slotted.

 

My comment was about the use of slotted rotors to help a street pad at the track. It's common to see people get slotted rotors to compensate a poor pad choice.

As for the better coolling, I doub't it would make much of a difference. I'd still prefer to maximize the contact surface to the pad and generate more torque so I can brake on a shorter distance.

A fresh pad surface ? That isn't an issue, unless your braking in puddles of water. Brake torque is generated by an echange of electrons between the transfer coat of pad material deposited on the rotor and the pad itself. Grinding away at the pad doesn't change its chemical properties. If it does, it means it's been altered by the heat and that you're not using the correct pad for the application. That brings us back to the "Choose the right pad" recommandation.

 

99% of people get drilled and slotted rotors for looks. Very few are actually tracking their rides.

They are just like rear spoilers. Yes, I like the looks sometimes. But, how many drivers actually put them on because they need the aero downforce?

 

Mating the proper rotor to the proper pad is, of course, critical. That being said, neither slotted, nor drilled rotors, will compromise pad life significantly, if at all - the driver does that, not the rotor. You also are not going to stop any longer or shorter merely by fitting a solid, or slotted, or drilled rotor - your tires, coupled with your cars weight, determine the overall stopping distance, not your pad or rotor selection

As for suitable big brake kits, there are lots of options in the "not overboard" category - determine your budget first, then it's easier to make recommendations

 

You aren't generating more torque, torque is created by the caliper. As long as you can lock them up you have enough brake torque, any more will just add that much more pressure to the rotor, but wont aid stopping distance. You would have more pad on rotor surface area, but not much. Slotting only takes around 4% of the rotor and the slots create friction, so it should have more 'bite'. I'm sure with identical setups with one having slotted and the other blanks, you will not notice much if any difference at all. The key to better braking is suspension, tires and being able to keep your brakes cool.