Replaced pads on Brembos
I just got my track model and was curious for you drivers that have had theirs longer, where do you get your pads changed? Do you have to go to the dealer or can you just take it to any shop?
Also, do we have stainless break lines on our Brembo's? If not, what aftermarket brand have you seen on this forum for compatibility with the Brembo's?
Also, do we have stainless break lines on our Brembo's? If not, what aftermarket brand have you seen on this forum for compatibility with the Brembo's?
I don't need new pads yet, but I would love a "how to" on changing those pads. I have never worked on my own brakes before. If there is one out there, please point me towards it. thx
I took them apart just by looking at them. Easiest way would be with service manual, but really, all you do is remove the two kotter pins that hold the pins in place at the top of the brake, then remove those pins and the steel clip under the pins. The pads come right up. Loosen the bleeder screw and take a wedge of wood and open the caliper so the thicker pad will fit back in, then retighten the bleeder.
I just ordered a brake kit from www.splparts.com . It was 299 and included hawk hps pads (all 4 corners), 1 liter of ATE superblue and their Technafit SS brake lines. Great deal!
I just ordered a brake kit from www.splparts.com . It was 299 and included hawk hps pads (all 4 corners), 1 liter of ATE superblue and their Technafit SS brake lines. Great deal!
A Mightyvac vacuum bleeder is also very helpful for bleeding the brakes. The angle of the front caliper can cause a small bit of air to remain in the caliper. The Mightyvac pulll sall that air out.
Also... for pressing the pistons back into the caliper I use a small C-clamp and the old pad. I leave in the old pad, place one end of the c-clamp on the pad: it's a snug fit and only grabs the top edge, but it's enough. The other end of the c-clamp presses on the middle of the caliper.
Slowly start twisting the c-clamp and the pistons will retract... even without opening a bleeder screw. Remove that pad.
Insert one new pad for leverage while you compress the remaining old pad.
PeteH
Also... for pressing the pistons back into the caliper I use a small C-clamp and the old pad. I leave in the old pad, place one end of the c-clamp on the pad: it's a snug fit and only grabs the top edge, but it's enough. The other end of the c-clamp presses on the middle of the caliper.
Slowly start twisting the c-clamp and the pistons will retract... even without opening a bleeder screw. Remove that pad.
Insert one new pad for leverage while you compress the remaining old pad.
PeteH
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