PICS of Stoptechs and RAYS installed on my SS Touring.
05-10-2003, 07:01 PM
#21
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Originally posted by slay2k
Droid, how do you think wheels like Volk GT-7's will stack up in 19" on the track ? They're about 21lbs or so.
Droid, how do you think wheels like Volk GT-7's will stack up in 19" on the track ? They're about 21lbs or so.
05-10-2003, 07:03 PM
#22
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Originally posted by thackattk
Did you have a professional take the pics. Very nice. If you did it yourself, I'd say you've got some talent.
Did you have a professional take the pics. Very nice. If you did it yourself, I'd say you've got some talent.
I shot the pics myself. If you click on the link in my sig and then go to the PICS section of my site, you'll see my progression from "alright" pics to "pretty good" as I got better with lighting and composition.
05-10-2003, 07:13 PM
#23
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Originally posted by slay2k
Droid, how do you think wheels like Volk GT-7's will stack up in 19" on the track ? They're about 21lbs or so.
Droid, how do you think wheels like Volk GT-7's will stack up in 19" on the track ? They're about 21lbs or so.
On to the question, according to Brad4hay, my iforged weigh about 22 lbs each in 19". I never weighed them without tires, but with rubber, they weigh 60lbs each! No way you want to run 19s on a track. The $ factor also. thats why I also bought inexpensive 17s.
05-10-2003, 08:09 PM
#24
Originally posted by 2003z
First, Very sweet Brad!
On to the question, according to Brad4hay, my iforged weigh about 22 lbs each in 19". I never weighed them without tires, but with rubber, they weigh 60lbs each! No way you want to run 19s on a track. The $ factor also. thats why I also bought inexpensive 17s.
First, Very sweet Brad!
On to the question, according to Brad4hay, my iforged weigh about 22 lbs each in 19". I never weighed them without tires, but with rubber, they weigh 60lbs each! No way you want to run 19s on a track. The $ factor also. thats why I also bought inexpensive 17s.
05-19-2003, 01:45 PM
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Originally posted by 88 Shrio Special
Bought Rays and Brembos( all used). converted my touring into a track.
Bought Rays and Brembos( all used). converted my touring into a track.
did that include the rotors? how much did the brembos run you?
05-19-2003, 08:02 PM
#29
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Originally posted by droideka
There are two difficult parts of the install. Trimming the dust shield without completely removing it first and getting the bridge over the pads to fit on the calipers after the taking it off for the first time. The bridge is EXTREMELY tight with NO TOLERANCE built in. That's a hallmark of the StopTech caliper design which makes the caliper extremely rigid, but it also makes the install take longer than it should.
There are two difficult parts of the install. Trimming the dust shield without completely removing it first and getting the bridge over the pads to fit on the calipers after the taking it off for the first time. The bridge is EXTREMELY tight with NO TOLERANCE built in. That's a hallmark of the StopTech caliper design which makes the caliper extremely rigid, but it also makes the install take longer than it should.
Since writing it, I've done a couple more 350Z installations and have come to the conclusion that you should remove the entire dust shield and not leave that flap behind. All that flap does is get in the way and it was totally arbitrary that I left it behind originally. You tend to get better at these installations after you've done a few! Sorry that part caused you a headache.
As for the bridge being tight to install, that's pretty easy to work around too. The StopTech guys are afraid you folks will hammer on the bridge or hammer the bridge bolts in place and destroy the threads, so they are very conservative with their instructions for installing the bridge. I copied that section from another manual, since it didn't make sense to rewrite anything that was specific to the StopTech ST40 caliper and not unique to the platform. However, I've found a better way after installing dozens of these kits on all sorts of cars.
If you use a dead blow hammer with a soft rubber face, you can tap the bridge into place gently. Insert the top bridge bolt and turn it a few turns until it engages the threads on the inboard side of the caliper. If it doesn't engage, you can tap the bridge gently to move it into place and align the holes so it can engage. Next, push down hard on the other end of the bridge and try to insert the second bridge bolt. If it doesn't go in easily, tap on the bridge with the soft-faced hammer. DO NOT tap on the bolt! If you push on the bolt with your hand while tapping on the top of the bridge, it will work its way in. You may need to tap the bridge harder to engage the threads because you are also fighting that metal rectangular spring that pushes down on the pads.
Once the threads are engaged, you can screw both bridge bolts in all the way. Do not tighten them very hard. Just snug them up gently. Also, it helps if you smear a bit of Permatex anti-seize paste on the smooth parts of the bridge bolt as well as the treaded ends. Do not get any of this stuff on your rotors for obvious reasons.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions or suggestions for improving the installation manual. You can see a PDF version of it here: 350Z Installation Manual
05-19-2003, 09:05 PM
#30
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droid.... delayed response since I have been out of town... BUT ---
VERY very nice setup... and the black calipers look great.
When is your S-tune coming in ?
VERY very nice setup... and the black calipers look great.
When is your S-tune coming in ?
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