I'm installing rotors on my car this weekend and wanted to know if there is any special keys needed for the install. Can someone please reach out.

Thanks...

 

*I have a 2003 Touring edition non brembo.*

 

Rubber Mallet.

 

I dont think so, if you read the DIY brake changing, it says all you need to do is take off a couple bolts. The rubber mallet is to smack it cause it can be stubborn to get off. One person mentioned that their rotor was "rusted" on.

hope that helps.

 

Spray the rotor-hub surface with penetrating fluid the evening before.

 

Thanks for the replies. The reason why I ask is bc a buddy of mine said after a certain year all rotors need a special key to be taken off...

One more question, I bought EBC slotted and dimpled rotors. Has anyone heard any comments about them?

 

the two bolts that hold on the front rotors are hard as hell to come off. u need wd-40 to loosen up, i used some coke cuz the wd40 did bugde. that thread sealer they use from the factory is tough

 

I didn't have too hard a time taking off the bolts that hold the caliper bracket on (has to come off to remove the rotor). I used a hammer to tap-tap-tap the socket wrench. One rotor fell off on it's own the other was rusted on.

One thing to note is that there is not a lot of room to bang on the inside of the rotor.... without more swinging room I couldn't figure out how to get it off and my neighbor came by and hammered it from the front (hammer and wooden block). Popped right off. It was counterintuitive (to me) to hammer it from the outside, but it worked so I'm not arguing.

 

+1. You'll have to bag the chit out of the back of the rotor after the caliper has been removed. It may seem like it won't come off at first. Just keep banging. It will...

 

+1 on tapping a 1/2 drive socket wrench with a hammer. If this will be the primary method for caliper bolt removal, one should take note and try to use a 6 sided socket to avoid bolt stripping. Personally, I have a 16 inch long mini-Craftsman breaker bar which works small miracles in places where conventional breaker bars won't fit.

As far as banging the rotor. There is a small open section on the dust shield, where the caliper use to be at. You could strike it there with the mallet also. It is a tight area, as mentioned, so one would have to use all wrist action on the mallet...

 

Vo knows wrist action like no other, well maybe bboy.

 

Not much work is needed to remove the rotors. A solid strike with a mallet will do just fine. It should'nt take you more than two hours to do all four.

Good luck.

 

So true. Until I almost stripped a bolt holding a supercharge nose drive and someone mentioned using a 6 point (or sided) socket, I never would have guessed there could be so much of a difference in holding power.

Guess that's why impact sockets are 6 sided.

 

I really appreciate all the replies.

Thanks.

 

I just finished my front brakes tonight, and will be doing the rears when I get home tomorrow. I borrowed a 24" breaker bar from Autozone, and it was great...except it was kinda big. It took a while to get it at an angle to move the bar at all, but it sure did help. I was about to shoot the bolts off with a 12 gauge....oh wait, that's another thread.

 

This stuff should really come with new rotors. As davidv mentioned, saturate the rotor hub surface and studs the night before with this.

 

That stuff prevents a lot of busted knuckles.

 

+1,000,000,000,000 - Use it!

 

+1,000,000,000,000 - Damn Straight!!

 

Sledge hammer is better , especially when you know the old rotors are not going back on. On the front i just thread a bolt into the hole where the stud is/was to keep you fron installing the rear wheels on the front. usually the fronts fall right off, but one car had the fronts stick.