I want to get the eibach springs to lower my car, but what are the negative side effects and do I have to buy something else with it?

 

Most seem reasonably happy doing just the Eibachs, but there are some possible long term effects. First, the stock shocks will most likely wear out faster, because there are operating in a height range they weren't designed for, and second, people are reporting rear camber can't be quite adjusted back into spec.

There are fixes for both issues, but they will require more money

 

I think with just .8 - 1 inch drop, the stock shocks will be fine... but the rear camber is killing me..

I am going to install rear camber to correct the problem..

 

How much is the rear camber and where are you getting it from?

 

The rear camber can be put back to spec's. It’s the front that can't be put back without changing other parts.

With the springs installed mine was:

Rear 2.5 before 2.1 after so close to factory
Front 1.1 which is over the 0.8 from factory

What you need to watch out for is toe. Just installing the springs will leave you with toe out, so you will at least need to get the toe back to specs. Excessive toe will cause tire wear including feathering.

Excessive camber will also cause tire wear just not as fast as excessive toe. The change of 0.3 on the front and 0.5 on the rear camber is not excessive.

---
Derek

 

Personally...

A) I am not worried about the shocks. Even if their lifetime is reduced some, I am planning to change them to Eibach shocks (Pro-Damper) as soon as they are available. (Last I knew, anytime now)

B) I just purchased the Camber Arms (search here for camber arms thread), it is $220, and that should solve any minimal issue on the back. Plus, I think they look good!

So, so far, spent $220 for the springs, $100 for the install, $220 for the camber arms, and the alignment...

 

Eibachs with stock struts seem to give about 20K (if that) miles before the struts are useless.

 

Hmmm, I'm curious as to how you arrived at the mile figure you quote for strut failure? I very seriously doubt there are many/any 350's that have 20k on Eibachs to do a study on. You would need a great many to do any definitive study on to make that kind of prediction. My Z was the first 350 in the US to have the ProKit installed on back in March. I have probably the highest mile Z on the boards at 31,184 miles presently of which 17,000 miles are with the Eibachs on and my shocks/struts are doing very well at this point. Regards, Jim

 

hey Jim... my girlfriend saw you on the 101 yesterday.... she was in her Xterra and not my Z otherwise she said she woulda waved at you...

hows Marilyn doing at 31K miles?

 

Hey DJ! She's doing great these days. No leaks, no rattles and only the windshield has been replaced thanks to Denver, Colo. roads/traffic.
Your girlfriend should have honked and waved anyway, it would have given my ego a whale of a boost!!!! Regards, Jim

 

Maybe I should have been a little more clear...That milage figure was from first and second hand experience on Maximas, Eclipses, and Tegs. NOT on the 350Z. I believe that Eibach pro kit has a general X percent higher spring rate over stock for each car. This is what I was going by. Stock struts do not generally like higher rate springs for very long, not to mention that they aren't made for shorter springs then stock.

 

I had 50,000 miles on my stock shocks when I dropped my Prelude with Neuspeed sport springs (equivalent to Eibach). I still had the stock shocks on the car three years later with an additional 30,000 more miles on it when it was stolen. I don't see any problems whatsoever running the Eibach's with stock shocks.

 

You need to add into your thinking process the fact that the stock springs are linear and those eibachs are progressive.

Here are the spring rates for the Eibach prokits.
Eibach 350Z spring rates front 296/384 rear 316/421

I have reason to believe that the maximum rates on the eibachs of 384 front and 421 rear are in fact slightly softer in the front and slightly harder in the rear then the stock springs. I am going to invest in a dial caliper to make certain that the spring rate info I have for the stock springs is 100% accurate.

 

As long as your shocks are being bottomed out by the shorter springs i can't see there being a problem.

It's been my experience that people with 3 or 4+ year old cars who then add lowering springs are the ones who find there shocks failing shortly there after. The reason seams to be, with the stock springs there is part of the shaft that is always exposed and gets slightly rusted or pitted. Now with the shorter springs this rough section rubs up and down on the shock seal ripping it up.