kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

almost anytime i hit my brakes even somewhat firmly my abs kicks in but on different wheels not sure which one does it the most but i almost wrecked today when the guy in front of me hit his brakes and i hit mine and the abs kicked in as soon as i touched the pedal but the car doesnt slow down it's almost as if the pedal just seizes up but i can feel the pulsing from the abs but it doesnt slow me down at all. could this just be air in the line?

krnzzang84

iTrader: (6)

I have VDC, Never felt ABS functioning! sometimes i wonder if i even have a ABS

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

It sounds like the brakes need to be bled. That can be one of the symptoms of air in the line along with a soft spongy pedal.

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

thats what i was thinking. bled my brakes when i did my rotors and pads. it did this a little before that but after it is worse. i used the old pedal pump method. does anyone know if gravity bleeding will work on our cars?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

The VDC/TCS/ABS Control Unit does not lend itself well to user troubleshooting. Have Nissan check it out.

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

i have a base model so i only have abs. i dont think nissan will touch my car because of everything i have done to it. i have actually been turned down by 2 dealerships because no tech wanted to touch the car. where else could i take it.

crg914

iTrader: (5)

Why did you bleed the system if all you did was rotors and pads? Just doing that, you shouldn't have introduced air into the hydraulic system. Unless you messed up bleeding it, you should not have air in it.

Do you have different wheels, different size tires, are your tire pressures where they should be, do you have stock brake system or BBK? Give us some more information.

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

the fluid was very dirty so i tried to bleed out all the dirty fluid. the wheels are aftermarket but have been on the car for a while, the front tire size is quite large but that should help i would think. 275/35/18 on the front. 32psi and i have drilled and slotted rotors that i probably should not have bought. they are from a place in cali they were 45 each shipped but i figured if there was a problem with them being cheap they may crack or something but not have anything to do with the abs comming on.

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

oh and it normally does it the worst when im in full boost then try to hit the brakes really quickly the pedal goes instantly hard and wont let me push it to stop because the abs seems to kick on immediatly. after more driving it seems to be comming from the right front wheel. it seems as if the abs is kicking in but it's just the right front but the light for abs does not come on at all . when it activates i cant push the pedal anymore because it becomes rock hard.

crg914

iTrader: (5)

What size is the rear tire?

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

You may need to bleed more than once. Either bring it to the dealer to bleed it or get a power bleeder and do it again yourdelf.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Kevin! I know the Z you purchased! disconnect the ABS! that car had the ABS disconnected when the hydraulic ebrake was installed! you must have connected it back under the hood....or someone who worked on your car recently did?

YOU CAN NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR WITH ABS!!!

The reason you are getting the off wheel brake is because a Nissan 350Z has cross braking system. as in, when the abs system detects slip on the rear driverside wheel it makes up for it on the passenger side front.

Ive discussed the installation of that hydraulic ebrake WITH THE INSTALLER. the actual hardlines coming out of the abs unit were moved! to make way for the hydro ebrake. SO the car now has Rear left and Rear Right coming out of the ABS box - This allowed for the lines to be brought to a Y - then from there an IN-LINE hyrdaulic ebrake was installed. GET IT. also, Front Left and Front Right. do do this the lines were switched! as in! NORMAL CONFIGURATION FOR THE Z IS ALTERNATING, AS IN REAR RIGHT, FRONT LEFT, REAR LEFT, FRONT RIGHT. GET IT NOW?

YOUR CAR CAN NEVER HAVE ABS WORKING AGAIN while the hardlines are coming out of the abs unit that way. you would need to physically disconnect and move then along with remove your hydro ebrake! need to disconnect whatever it is you connected back to get the abs to activate again.

pm me or call you know who you bought the car from.
-j

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

THIS IS WHY YOU FEEL THE ABS ACTIVATE AND MALFUNCTION ON DIFFRENT WHEELS.

YOU ARE feeling only one of the FRONT wheels active when you brake hard and the abs try's to work. the corresponding rear doesnt activate because your lines have been merged to one line and in line with the hydrualic ebrake.

SO you have been lucky you havent gotten into an accident.

-j

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

remember, your car is no where near a street car.......your car is about a great as it gets to a pro drift car.
-j

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info That makes sense I did almost wreck the other day because of this

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

i bet you would.....your lucky you didnt. let us know what fixed it. im sure someone had to have hooked the ABS back up when they weren't supposed to.

-j

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

It is possible to block off the ABS Fuses Instead of disconnecting the whole computer because when you do that you loose your speedometer, so yeah your right everything is ok now. either the whole ABS Computer needs to be disconnected or block off the 2 fuses in the fuse block under the hood So you can keep the speedometer, but you can't brake boost like you can when the computer is disconnected.

BrickyardBomber

Could you explain which fuses are the ABS fuses... I am familiar with disconnecting the entire harness and losing the speedo. Which fuses did you block and what did you use (electrical tape?) to get the ABS off and speedo on?

Thanks a lot!

-AD

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

under the hood there is a fuse block and there is one large fuse that actually has 3 fuses integrated 2 abs and 1 ign. it is possible to use electrical tape for the time being to not allow the prongs for the 2 abs fuses to touch but allowing the ign prong to touch. I will be looking to see if there is a 40amp replacement at a parts store so i can pull the 3 fuse block out and run just the 40 amp for the ign. if you look on the cap it will show abs, abs, ign
30 30 40 it has a clear cap that can be removed. you can also just break the 30 amp links for the abs but leave the ign one alone and that will also work but i chose not to.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

sweet. im glad you got it figured out...

im in Grapevine, tx by the way, ill be at the drift event in mineral wells at the end of july. if not maybe ill see you at a meet or something....

laterz,

-j