Sorry to hear about your misfortune, is this resolved yet?

 

The area where the new toe bolt mounts up will have to be cut out slightly with a dremel. It's not a big deal, it's just aluminum and the dremel will cut through it (with the right bit) without an issue.

 

Thank you Chesh

 

Hi,

Just so you know, after you fix the rear camber on a lowered car your car will be higher. If you think about it, the wheels are like this // \\ when the camber is way off from a big drop. When you fix the camber your making the wheels more upright, correcting the camber || || the tops push out, which is basically making your car taller. If you fix camber in the rear and want the drop to be equal after you will need to lower the back to what you like before your final alignment.

 

Makes a lot of sense!

 

I can see how the ride height could increase when the camber goes from negative towards Zero, but would the gap between the top of the tire and the fender lip (i.e. 'wheel gap') also change?

 

Think of it like a arc, the center point is stationary but as you correct the camber the center point lowers (camber gets corrected, pushes the hub and linkage down). The arc narrows to the edge of the well and the gap increases. Dunno if that makes sense.



I FOUND THIS ONLINE SEE IF THIS HELPS EXPLAIN.

Negative Camber

When the top of the tire is more towards the center of the vehicle and the bottom is outwards, that is measured in negative camber. Negative camber wears the inside of your tires at a rapid rate. Lowering a vehicle brings the entire chassis closer to the tires. Everything is moving downwards except the tires. Obviously they cannot go down any more because they are on the ground. Since suspension is put together with the factory ride height in mind, parts are made to be installed and have near 0 degree camber. By lowering the suspension components but not the wheel, the wheel in essence lowers itself by tilting inwards. A camber kit corrects this problem by extending the length of the upper control arm, allowing the ball joint which holds the control arm in place to be adjusted. It can be moved out for negative camber correction or in for positive correction. This along with an alignment correction is the ultimate defense against camber wear.

Positive Camber

When the bottom of the tire is more inwards and the top is out, that is referred to as positive camber. Positive camber wears the outside of the tires at a rapid rate. Positive camber is generally the result of a bad alignment or wearing ball joint. A camber kit is not usually required for this because replacing the faulty part and realignment generally pulls everything into spec. One time a camber kit will be needed for positive camber is when the vehicles ride height is raised. When it is raised, it puts stress on the top ball joint because the wheels lifting motion conflicts with the ball joint position therefore pushing it to the side. With an adjustable camber kit, this is corrected by sliding the ball joint back inwards, towards the motor, to bring the wheel back into spec.

 

Im pretty sure they installed your toe bolt kit on the camber arm eccentric instead of the toe eccentric, which is located at the inside end of the spring perch.

 

Im sure he figured that out 5 years ago.

 

^^^^lol

 

The only person making sense in this thread is ~~O8>...Everyone else has no idea what they are talking about. It's impossible to mount the camber arms upsides down and also impossible to change ride height significantly by installing any type of camber arm.

My guess is the OP didn't even measure his car before or after the alignment and is just going from picture memory.