front rotors = one time use only ??
ended up only replacing my rear pads and getting the rotors resurfaced. front rotors were still fine and pads had about 6000 miles left to go. thanks everyone for all your help
just some information on what was going on:
2006 Z purchased on April in 2007 (new)
current mileage 42,xxx miles
front pads still have about 6000 miles left
front rotors still good (no lip)
rear pads worn down to about 3mm
rear rotors needed to be resurfaced
thought it was weird seeing my front pads having a lot of meat left at 42k miles
just some information on what was going on:
2006 Z purchased on April in 2007 (new)
current mileage 42,xxx miles
front pads still have about 6000 miles left
front rotors still good (no lip)
rear pads worn down to about 3mm
rear rotors needed to be resurfaced
thought it was weird seeing my front pads having a lot of meat left at 42k miles
Last edited by t1m1t; Jan 27, 2009 at 06:17 PM.
ended up only replacing my rear pads and getting the rotors resurfaced. front rotors were still fine and pads had about 6000 miles left to go. thanks everyone for all your help
just some information on what was going on:
2006 Z purchased on April in 2007 (new)
current mileage 42,xxx miles
front pads still have about 6000 miles left
front rotors still good (no lip)
rear pads worn down to about 3mm
rear rotors needed to be resurfaced
thought it was weird seeing my front pads having a lot of meat left at 42k miles
just some information on what was going on:
2006 Z purchased on April in 2007 (new)
current mileage 42,xxx miles
front pads still have about 6000 miles left
front rotors still good (no lip)
rear pads worn down to about 3mm
rear rotors needed to be resurfaced
thought it was weird seeing my front pads having a lot of meat left at 42k miles
Maximum rotor wear: 2 mm
Minimum pad thickness: 2 mm
Generally the minimum thickness is stamped on the edge of the rotor.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
From: Marietta, Georgia
The minimum rotor thickness has more to do with the potential for sudden caliper seal failure from over extension with worn out pads. 1.0mm per side of rotor wear when coupled with 7mm of pad wear [we have seen the pads worn to metal mounting plate ~ 9mm pad wear].
The temperature rise of rotor is a function of weight [say 18 pounds] and potential wear area comprises 1/3 of weight so with typical 9.8 mm of thickness, 9mm of air space, and 9.8 mm other side thickness ................so worn out rotors might have a 20% higher temperature at pad surface. Not critical on street but mountains may be more problematic.
Certainly less so than a sudden total brake failure from over extended seal and immediate loss of all brake fluid.
The factory cannot trust owners to maintain pads and seals so it sets a minimum on rotor thickness as a safety measure.
Time is money therefore rotors may be overcut to avoid doing it over and over and over in smaller increments.
A brake lathe can be set accurately to only remove 0.0005" or less at a time yet it usually done in 0.003"................6x coarser cut...........some hacks use 0.005" or worse.
Cutting a rotor can take 10 minutes to hours EACH depending on how many times and how much you are PAID to care!
My AMG C43 uses special $283 [wholesale] each front rotors, you better believe I spend an hour each and 3-4-5 cuts per session zeroing in on perfection and can achieve 100,000 mile life.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/raybes...or_warning.pdf
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm
The temperature rise of rotor is a function of weight [say 18 pounds] and potential wear area comprises 1/3 of weight so with typical 9.8 mm of thickness, 9mm of air space, and 9.8 mm other side thickness ................so worn out rotors might have a 20% higher temperature at pad surface. Not critical on street but mountains may be more problematic.
Certainly less so than a sudden total brake failure from over extended seal and immediate loss of all brake fluid.
The factory cannot trust owners to maintain pads and seals so it sets a minimum on rotor thickness as a safety measure.
Time is money therefore rotors may be overcut to avoid doing it over and over and over in smaller increments.
A brake lathe can be set accurately to only remove 0.0005" or less at a time yet it usually done in 0.003"................6x coarser cut...........some hacks use 0.005" or worse.
Cutting a rotor can take 10 minutes to hours EACH depending on how many times and how much you are PAID to care!
My AMG C43 uses special $283 [wholesale] each front rotors, you better believe I spend an hour each and 3-4-5 cuts per session zeroing in on perfection and can achieve 100,000 mile life.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/raybes...or_warning.pdf
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
The minimum rotor thickness has more to do with the potential for sudden caliper seal failure from over extension with worn out pads. 1.0mm per side of rotor wear when coupled with 7mm of pad wear [we have seen the pads worn to metal mounting plate ~ 9mm pad wear].
The temperature rise of rotor is a function of weight [say 18 pounds] and potential wear area comprises 1/3 of weight so with typical 9.8 mm of thickness, 9mm of air space, and 9.8 mm other side thickness ................so worn out rotors might have a 20% higher temperature at pad surface. Not critical on street but mountains may be more problematic.
Certainly less so than a sudden total brake failure from over extended seal and immediate loss of all brake fluid.
The factory cannot trust owners to maintain pads and seals so it sets a minimum on rotor thickness as a safety measure.
Time is money therefore rotors may be overcut to avoid doing it over and over and over in smaller increments.
A brake lathe can be set accurately to only remove 0.0005" or less at a time yet it usually done in 0.003"................6x coarser cut...........some hacks use 0.005" or worse.
Cutting a rotor can take 10 minutes to hours EACH depending on how many times and how much you are PAID to care!
My AMG C43 uses special $283 [wholesale] each front rotors, you better believe I spend an hour each and 3-4-5 cuts per session zeroing in on perfection and can achieve 100,000 mile life.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/raybes...or_warning.pdf
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm
The temperature rise of rotor is a function of weight [say 18 pounds] and potential wear area comprises 1/3 of weight so with typical 9.8 mm of thickness, 9mm of air space, and 9.8 mm other side thickness ................so worn out rotors might have a 20% higher temperature at pad surface. Not critical on street but mountains may be more problematic.
Certainly less so than a sudden total brake failure from over extended seal and immediate loss of all brake fluid.
The factory cannot trust owners to maintain pads and seals so it sets a minimum on rotor thickness as a safety measure.
Time is money therefore rotors may be overcut to avoid doing it over and over and over in smaller increments.
A brake lathe can be set accurately to only remove 0.0005" or less at a time yet it usually done in 0.003"................6x coarser cut...........some hacks use 0.005" or worse.
Cutting a rotor can take 10 minutes to hours EACH depending on how many times and how much you are PAID to care!
My AMG C43 uses special $283 [wholesale] each front rotors, you better believe I spend an hour each and 3-4-5 cuts per session zeroing in on perfection and can achieve 100,000 mile life.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/raybes...or_warning.pdf
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm
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