NISMO S-Tune or STANCE GR+ = agravation
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NISMO S-Tune or STANCE GR+ = agravation
Looking at updating the suspension on the Z...
Thought about keeping it simple with the NISMO S-tune, but also thought about adding SPL Arms F/R and going with the STANCE GR+.
About a $700 dollars difference...not to mention getting it corner balanced.
I have no clue about the differecee in right quality. Just trying to get some info...any would be appreciated...
Thanks...
Thought about keeping it simple with the NISMO S-tune, but also thought about adding SPL Arms F/R and going with the STANCE GR+.
About a $700 dollars difference...not to mention getting it corner balanced.
I have no clue about the differecee in right quality. Just trying to get some info...any would be appreciated...
Thanks...
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Thanks for the input...
The car is used for HPDE/Track Days and daily driver.
As for the Eibach Pro Kit...I have heard mixed reviews on using the progressive springs on track?
No comments on the NISMO Kit?
The car is used for HPDE/Track Days and daily driver.
As for the Eibach Pro Kit...I have heard mixed reviews on using the progressive springs on track?
No comments on the NISMO Kit?
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The NISMO setup works well, but it's not coilovers, it's a matched set of springs and struts. Nice setup for sure, but offers no adjustability
For an HPDE and street driving, you won't find any meaningful difference with a progressive set of springs vs linear - if no one told you, it's likely you would never know
For an HPDE and street driving, you won't find any meaningful difference with a progressive set of springs vs linear - if no one told you, it's likely you would never know
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Would the NISMO kit sufice or is the coilover set up worth the aggravation?
I run with a bunch a guys in E36 M3s with coilovers and Toyo RA1s...I am about 2 sec behind most of them now with RT 615s and sway bars...
I run with a bunch a guys in E36 M3s with coilovers and Toyo RA1s...I am about 2 sec behind most of them now with RT 615s and sway bars...
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If you're serious about making a true track car out of it, yes coilovers are absolutely worth it IMHO. The balance between streetability, cost, etc is only something you can answer for yourself. You can obviously have a blast with a nearly stock Z on the track...but you won't be very competitive in most regions. So, it comes down to the balancing act
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I don't know anything about SPL's rear setup, but their A Arms are really nicely made pieces. For the rears, most people use the Eibach/SPC camber arm, eccentric toe bolt combo - inexpensive, easy to set, and works great. I'm sure the SPL setup is nice as well, I've just never used it
As far as what to go with? What's the budget you're working with? Will you be sticking to the RT615, or stepping up to something better? I'd imagine those have to get really super slick during those summer track days in FL.
As far as what to go with? What's the budget you're working with? Will you be sticking to the RT615, or stepping up to something better? I'd imagine those have to get really super slick during those summer track days in FL.
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I was planning on spending ~$1500 for suspension...not including the SPL hardware...as for tires...I plan to eventually move to NT01s or something of the sort...but I rather tow those tires than drive on them...gotta hitch for the Z!?
I only go to the track in the Spring and Fall in FL...LOL...Early Summer and Late Summer and yes they do get greasy at the limits
I only go to the track in the Spring and Fall in FL...LOL...Early Summer and Late Summer and yes they do get greasy at the limits
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Cusco Zero2 would be a terrific setup for a dual purpose track day/street car - we have them on special for $1598 shipped
Bilstein PSS10 - also excellent units, albeit geared for more street use than track use. Would still work well for an HPDE/club day though, with or without r compounds. Not the setup I'd run for a full out time attack car, but for mixed use, they would do very well
Bilstein PSS10 - also excellent units, albeit geared for more street use than track use. Would still work well for an HPDE/club day though, with or without r compounds. Not the setup I'd run for a full out time attack car, but for mixed use, they would do very well
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LOL used car salesman!...did'nt have anything lower than $1500 LOL Just joking!
What are the rates on the CUSCO...
Also, like most Track/Street cars it sees 95% street so having to wear a kidney belt to work isn't an option.
What are the rates on the CUSCO...
Also, like most Track/Street cars it sees 95% street so having to wear a kidney belt to work isn't an option.
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I was considering the Cusco or KW V3s but got a great deal on some used V3s that I could not pass up. Good upgrade over the Stance imo.
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lololol - that's why we ask the price range recommending something that totally blows the budget out the water !
Cusco rates are 10kg/mm front, 7 kg/mm rear. The setup that we bring in, uses a dense rubber reinforced upper mount, so they don't make noise, and they have a bit of compliance, which you need with all those nasty expansions joints on your highways there. They are definitely firmer than the Bilsteins, but they have a meaningful damper adjustment span (5 clicks), 2 way height adjustability (preload vs damper length), and are just a really nice dual purpose setup for these cars.
The advantage the Bilstein has vs the Cusco in that the damper adjustments are on the bottom on the rear, so easier to access. The Cusco's are up top. I usually just suggest customers set the back to 3 and leave it there. Or, you can drill a very small hole in the metal strut brace and then access it with a thin, long flathead screwdriver. With the plastic panels back on top of the strut brace, the hole is fully covered, so no one could tell anything.
Cusco rates are 10kg/mm front, 7 kg/mm rear. The setup that we bring in, uses a dense rubber reinforced upper mount, so they don't make noise, and they have a bit of compliance, which you need with all those nasty expansions joints on your highways there. They are definitely firmer than the Bilsteins, but they have a meaningful damper adjustment span (5 clicks), 2 way height adjustability (preload vs damper length), and are just a really nice dual purpose setup for these cars.
The advantage the Bilstein has vs the Cusco in that the damper adjustments are on the bottom on the rear, so easier to access. The Cusco's are up top. I usually just suggest customers set the back to 3 and leave it there. Or, you can drill a very small hole in the metal strut brace and then access it with a thin, long flathead screwdriver. With the plastic panels back on top of the strut brace, the hole is fully covered, so no one could tell anything.
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Okay...say I bite on the Cusco's...are they rebuildable? in the US?
Let's talk A-arms...any complaints with the Cusco's? ease of use etc.
As for drilling a hole in my precious Z...will the bit used for door ***** work?
what's that 3 inches! (that's what she said!)
Let's talk A-arms...any complaints with the Cusco's? ease of use etc.
As for drilling a hole in my precious Z...will the bit used for door ***** work?
what's that 3 inches! (that's what she said!)
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lots of places can rebuild many different coilovers. Cusco themselves does not offer any rebuilding services they just sell complete replacement dampers.
I use the Cusco a arms on my car, they have worked out very well for me.
I use the Cusco a arms on my car, they have worked out very well for me.
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I don't think it's appropriate for me to comment on them, as it's not something we carry nor intend to carry. Search around though, talk to guys on here that know what they are talking about (g35sedan, and several others) and you'll get a feel for what should and shouldn't be on your short list given your needs/wants/budget