McLovin350Z

iTrader: (16)

OK im pulling my rear rotor off to get it turned

This is a list of my steps
Pulled wheel off - OK
Pulled caliper and bracket off - OK
Disengaged the e-brake - OK
Remove rotor - WTF
Do a search on the Forum - OK
Beat Rotor with mallet - OK
Remove rotor - WTF
Apply Bolt Breaker to rotor hub area for overnight
Remove rotor - WTF

Guys and girls im lost
Im beating the crap out the rotor with a mallet and nothing is working.....i disengaged the ebrake also.......what can i do

Do you think if i pull the hub off I can get a homemade device to separate the parts?

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

take a metal headed hammer and hit around the hub on the rotors to loosen it up a bit. Then use a block of wood and stick it behind the rotor and hit the peice of wood so the rotor wont' get damaged. A mallet isn't really going to knock it off. You have to hit it pretty hard.

you can use penatrating oil first if you want but it's not necessary. It seems like it won't come off but it will.

AstroZombie

iTrader: (8)

I just had the same problem. do not pull the hub, the rotors are slip ons. its just a lip in the E-brake "drum" hanging you up. pull that little rubber cap out of the lug area and rotate so that hole is apprx the 12 o'clock position. shine a light in and youll see an adjuster star wheel thingy....! turn it with a flat head screwdriver in the grooves (one way or the other depending on which side youre on) and you'll feel it give. then bump a few times with a mallet and it should slide right off.

if you need to back the E-brake off more than that remove the ash tray in the center console and pull the brake handle up a few clicks, you'll see your adjuster nut.... back it off a few turns just dont take the nut completely off unless you really feel like tearing apart the entire console!! Good luck, I'm gonna search my manual quick to see if there are diagrams of the adjuster.

AstroZombie

iTrader: (8)

Here is the page out of the manual how to remove the stuck rotor. the pic in the bottom is a cross section of what i tried to describe!!

McLovin350Z

iTrader: (16)

OK......now i think i can get it off
Sadly, im at work now
will keep you updated

07rdsterGT

iTrader: (7)

A mallet isn't going to do the trick. You need a small sledge with a block of wood.

The sledge is going to transfer the most energy.

rob6118

I normally do the sledge and block of wood trick but it didn't work for my rear rotors either. So I broke out my butane torch. Heated up the rotor around the hub ring and each lug stud hole and after about 2 minutes of heat, the sledge and wood broke it loose.

Heating the rotor makes it expand slightly and easier to get off. But it leaves it hot and make sure you don't burn your brake line or anything stupid like that.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

^ all are good ways.

it's just applying enough force... putting the ebrake up and down helps sometimes too...

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I just give them a quick smak with a sledge, just hit both side on the wear surface face. Then call it a day. You may leave a slight nick in the rotor, but who cares .

Z04

iTrader: (15)

first time i did it they came right off, no issues. the second time was PITA.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

Penetrating oil - let it soak (around hub and studs). Plus the e-brake loosening.

McLovin350Z

iTrader: (16)

i already did the penetrating oil and i even tried itafter letting it sit overnight
and i dont have a torch in my garage......lol
and i have hit it on both sides
The mallet i used has a plastic covered hammer with Lead in the inside....strong impact but no recoil

Im assuming that adjusting the ebrake springs would be the best solution

rob6118

Dude a butane torch will run you like 20 bucks at walmart or home depot and it comes in handy for loosening stuff up. It was the only thing that worked on getting the window motor unbolted from the door access panel.

07rdsterGT

iTrader: (7)

Stop being ***** and fuc king hit it like a man.

McLovin350Z

iTrader: (16)

true.....but i dont want to spend the dough on a torch
when this is prob the only reason id use it
im cheap.....LOL!!!!
Thanks tho......if that trick doesnt work......off to the store for a torch

McLovin350Z

iTrader: (16)

considering i lost my mind last night hitting it......im going to assume i hit it like a "crazy man".....so that should have been enough to fill your requirements.....LOL!!!!

McLovin350Z

iTrader: (16)

I got my car used at 49,000miles in 06
its now at 70,000
Im assuming the rotors were never pulled off like ever.....lol!

rob6118

You don't bar-b-que? Torch plus lighter fluid and charcoal = fun.

If you don't bar-b-que I immediately demand the retractment of your statement that you hit it like a "crazy man".

No torch, no tools, no bar-b-que, and can't get rear rotors off = no man

McLovin350Z

iTrader: (16)

Hey somethings wrong with your equation
That dont add up
LOL!
I think the answer is "unlucky and hungry"

burntZ

iTrader: (1)

fixed....



j/k

70K miles AND enuogh grooves where you decide to get the rotors turned=toasted rotors

just use a gear puller and yank them off (or 2 6" clamps to a heavy bar across the lugs)

http://www.zeckhausen.com/Nissan/350Z.htm

Centric Premium Rotors

Front 296mm x 24mm 1-piece vented rotors $72 Each

Rear 292mm x 16mm 1-piece vented rotors $64 Each


spend the $$ - help the economy.....