Rear brake rotors not coming off?
08-22-2009, 01:34 PM
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Rear brake rotors not coming off?
Im having some trouble removing my rear brake rotors.. i already did the front pads and rotors and it went very smooth. For some reason the rear rotors will not come off! They are sliding like they want to come off, but they just wont budge. Is there something im missing? ive looked and looked and do not see anything else that has to come off. I have been trying to get this rotor off for an hour now, and its really starting to irritate me. Any help would be great.
Specs..
its an '06 with non brembos.
Specs..
its an '06 with non brembos.
08-22-2009, 04:05 PM
#6
I had serious problems getting mines off as well. I made sure I had the e-brake down + used the loosened the adjuster and still couldn't get it to slide off right. Even tried to hammer. Last thing I did was grabbed the lug bar (the bar that comes with your stock jack), or any bar an put it against the caliper bracket in the rear and I pulled it against the rotor..HARD. The rotor snapped out of place and loosened right up... I guess all the rust seized the rotor onto the hub itself.
08-23-2009, 10:38 AM
#7
The following is an illustrative on how to remove the rear rotors. They will come off using this method, you just need to crank the adjuster until the shoes are completely loose.
https://my350z.com/forum/7030300-post40.html
https://my350z.com/forum/7030300-post40.html
Originally Posted by guitman32
REAR ROTOR REMOVAL:
Your bit about hammering the rear rotors off (and the other comment about soaking in WD40 or PB Blaster) are incorrect. No need for hammering or any brute force at all:
You can use this to append your DIY:
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...ml#post3173770
"You need to loosen the parking brake shoes. There is a little rubber plug on your rotor. Align this plug so it is at 11 or 12 o'clock. Then remove the plug. Now, with a flathead screwdriver, you need to turn the adjuster to loosen the parking brake shoes. If you do this, the rotor will come off freely just as the fronts. I see too many threads of people pounding away, when that is totally unnecessary and probably damages your parking brake system and rotors. The FSM is your friend:
Once you have replaced your rotor or completed whatever work you are doing, you need to re-adjust the parking brake. From the FSM:
I thought I would add that it takes quite a few turns to loosen the rotor, so just keep at it!! Also, a flashlight helps in locating the adjuster if you have never adjusted it before...no pounding necessary!!"
Your bit about hammering the rear rotors off (and the other comment about soaking in WD40 or PB Blaster) are incorrect. No need for hammering or any brute force at all:
You can use this to append your DIY:
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...ml#post3173770
"You need to loosen the parking brake shoes. There is a little rubber plug on your rotor. Align this plug so it is at 11 or 12 o'clock. Then remove the plug. Now, with a flathead screwdriver, you need to turn the adjuster to loosen the parking brake shoes. If you do this, the rotor will come off freely just as the fronts. I see too many threads of people pounding away, when that is totally unnecessary and probably damages your parking brake system and rotors. The FSM is your friend:
Once you have replaced your rotor or completed whatever work you are doing, you need to re-adjust the parking brake. From the FSM:
I thought I would add that it takes quite a few turns to loosen the rotor, so just keep at it!! Also, a flashlight helps in locating the adjuster if you have never adjusted it before...no pounding necessary!!"
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08-23-2009, 01:53 PM
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ya, after you back the adjusters you can use a hammer. what others aren't telling you is what i'm going to pass on from my BMW mechanic friend:
use a METAL hammer (not a deadblow or mallet) and hit on the rotor surface from the outsdie of the car. Don't hit from under the car away from the car and don't hit in the middle to "jar it". Hit right on the braking surface (outter edge) going inwards towards the suspension. that hit will put leverage on the rotor and pop the rust seal.
i beat on mine for hours, pried on it, and nothing. I called him and first wack at medium strength like that and it popped right off.
use a METAL hammer (not a deadblow or mallet) and hit on the rotor surface from the outsdie of the car. Don't hit from under the car away from the car and don't hit in the middle to "jar it". Hit right on the braking surface (outter edge) going inwards towards the suspension. that hit will put leverage on the rotor and pop the rust seal.
i beat on mine for hours, pried on it, and nothing. I called him and first wack at medium strength like that and it popped right off.
05-31-2014, 03:15 PM
#10
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ya, after you back the adjusters you can use a hammer. what others aren't telling you is what i'm going to pass on from my BMW mechanic friend:
use a METAL hammer (not a deadblow or mallet) and hit on the rotor surface from the outsdie of the car. Don't hit from under the car away from the car and don't hit in the middle to "jar it". Hit right on the braking surface (outter edge) going inwards towards the suspension. that hit will put leverage on the rotor and pop the rust seal.
i beat on mine for hours, pried on it, and nothing. I called him and first wack at medium strength like that and it popped right off.
use a METAL hammer (not a deadblow or mallet) and hit on the rotor surface from the outsdie of the car. Don't hit from under the car away from the car and don't hit in the middle to "jar it". Hit right on the braking surface (outter edge) going inwards towards the suspension. that hit will put leverage on the rotor and pop the rust seal.
i beat on mine for hours, pried on it, and nothing. I called him and first wack at medium strength like that and it popped right off.
I'm putting on some spacers and extended studs, and I could not get the damn rotor off. Just 2 medium strength bangs where your mechanic friend said and voila! off it goes. thanks man
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