Car was hit in rear. What compnents would be causing one wheel to stick out more?
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Bought car in 2007. Delear gave me a fake Carfax. Legit one says car was in a rear end collicion. I never noticed it other than the rear passenger having a little more neg camber wear than the driver side until I went to 295s yesterday. Not the camber is more positive and the wheel sticks out more top and bottom. About 10 mm more than the drivers side.
Rather than put a band aid on it by getting a camber kit and fender roll, what can I look at in the suspension to see if it can be fixed?



It's not as bad as it looks in the last pic. Thats just the angle.
Rather than put a band aid on it by getting a camber kit and fender roll, what can I look at in the suspension to see if it can be fixed?



It's not as bad as it looks in the last pic. Thats just the angle.
Depends on how bad it was hit. If it was hit bad enough for someone to have to fabricate your frame, then you can't do anything about it. Body shops have tools to see where/what is crooked, check into that.
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I'm taking it to a reall good alignment frame place next week. Hopefully it's just a thing where an alignment wasnt done when the car was put back together....
Inspect the following:
1. Camber arm (for being kinked more than normal)
2. Camber arm mounting points on the subframe for bending/damage (if these are jacked up you will probably need a new subframe)
3. Camber arm mounting points on hub (long shot but worth inspecting for damage anyway)
If the above look fine, then there could be other issues (e.g. L & R fenders might not be identical due to body work). My one thought is that if you've been riding around on your old wheel/tire/alignment setup for a while and haven't noticed any abnormal wear, that tells me that your alignment is in spec and the issue is most likely elsewhere.
If you can get your car up in the air and take some pictures of the rear suspension assembly we could help diagnose even further.
1. Camber arm (for being kinked more than normal)
2. Camber arm mounting points on the subframe for bending/damage (if these are jacked up you will probably need a new subframe)
3. Camber arm mounting points on hub (long shot but worth inspecting for damage anyway)
If the above look fine, then there could be other issues (e.g. L & R fenders might not be identical due to body work). My one thought is that if you've been riding around on your old wheel/tire/alignment setup for a while and haven't noticed any abnormal wear, that tells me that your alignment is in spec and the issue is most likely elsewhere.
If you can get your car up in the air and take some pictures of the rear suspension assembly we could help diagnose even further.
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Inspect the following:
1. Camber arm (for being kinked more than normal)
2. Camber arm mounting points on the subframe for bending/damage (if these are jacked up you will probably need a new subframe)
3. Camber arm mounting points on hub (long shot but worth inspecting for damage anyway)
If the above look fine, then there could be other issues (e.g. L & R fenders might not be identical due to body work). My one thought is that if you've been riding around on your old wheel/tire/alignment setup for a while and haven't noticed any abnormal wear, that tells me that your alignment is in spec and the issue is most likely elsewhere.
If you can get your car up in the air and take some pictures of the rear suspension assembly we could help diagnose even further.
1. Camber arm (for being kinked more than normal)
2. Camber arm mounting points on the subframe for bending/damage (if these are jacked up you will probably need a new subframe)
3. Camber arm mounting points on hub (long shot but worth inspecting for damage anyway)
If the above look fine, then there could be other issues (e.g. L & R fenders might not be identical due to body work). My one thought is that if you've been riding around on your old wheel/tire/alignment setup for a while and haven't noticed any abnormal wear, that tells me that your alignment is in spec and the issue is most likely elsewhere.
If you can get your car up in the air and take some pictures of the rear suspension assembly we could help diagnose even further.
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Thats interesting. Are you sure it's camber wear and not toe wear?
I would say lift it up, do your inspection, and take it to an alignment shop to establish a baseline. At this point there could be a slew of issues causing the wheel to protrude which are most likely having an effect on the alignment as well. From the sound of it though, the passenger side wheel isn't protruding from crazy positive camber, so that means getting aftermarket toe arms and dialing negative camber to compensate could just be masking the real issue.
Crazy question, are you sure it's the passenger side that is the problem?
Does a visual inspection of the fenders lead you to believe they could be non-symmetrical?
Also, you're looking at about $550 for a new subframe (excluding shipping):
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
I would say lift it up, do your inspection, and take it to an alignment shop to establish a baseline. At this point there could be a slew of issues causing the wheel to protrude which are most likely having an effect on the alignment as well. From the sound of it though, the passenger side wheel isn't protruding from crazy positive camber, so that means getting aftermarket toe arms and dialing negative camber to compensate could just be masking the real issue.
Crazy question, are you sure it's the passenger side that is the problem?
Does a visual inspection of the fenders lead you to believe they could be non-symmetrical?
Also, you're looking at about $550 for a new subframe (excluding shipping):
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0

Get your alignment done then post up the printout sheet, this will help us greatly.
I seriously doubt you have frame damage as it is HIGHLY illegal to sell a car with frame damage and not disclose it. If anything, your rear fenders may have been put on carelessly...but that would beg the question "why does the bumper lineup to fenders correctly, then?".
If you can, snap some photos of the "damaged" side (suspension components) under the car when jacked up, we may be able to spot something.
Last edited by GeauxLadyZ; Oct 5, 2009 at 12:45 PM.
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I'm taking it there tommorow. I don't know if I will be able to get pics, but I will try. A 295 on a 19x10 with an offset of around +20 or a little less shouldn't stick out completely outside of the fender should it? Looking from the top, it appears that the passenger side wheel (the one that is poking out) has more toe out than the drivers side, where the driverside has more neg camber. I can't wait to solve this because I don't want to jump into lowering, rolling fenders, or camber kits until I can get the alignment to factory specs...
Last edited by phreaktor; Oct 5, 2009 at 05:10 PM.
Ya, getting that alignment should def be first. While the car is on the ramp, pick the guys brain on what could be causing it, and after he test drives afterwards, inspect rears right off the bat.
I'm taking it there tommorow. I don't know if I will be able to get pics, but I will try. A 295 on a 19x10 with an offset of around +20 or a little less shouldn't stick out completely outside of the fender should it? Looking from the top, it appears that the passenger side wheel (the one that is poking out) has more toe out than the drivers side, where the driverside has more neg camber. I can't wait to solve this because I don't want to jump into lowering, rolling fenders, or camber kits until I can get the alignment to factory specs...
Yeah a 295 on a 10" wheel +20 wouldn't be poking like that for sure, at least not without some serious positive camber. Let us know how the alignment goes.
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