dragonfire6

iTrader: (3)

Went in for an oil change and the shop owner tells me my Tension Rods are worn out and will cause the alignment to go out/camber wear on tires/etc. and it will cost $675 to fix...

I have a couple questions for you guys...

1. Is the part actually called a Tension Rod or is it commonly referred to something else? Searches are not coming up with many results, possibly Compression Rod??

2. Does the entire ARM get worn out, or is it just the bushing?

As always, thanks in advance
-Chris

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

1. These rods on the Z33 are referred to as "Compression Rods" and are part of a new design by Nissan made specifically for the Z33 to split the lower link into 2 peices thereby creating 2 seperate pivot points at 2 seperate ball joints.

On the Z32, however, a similar part was referred to as the "tension rods".

2. No, the entire arm cannot get warn out as it is a soild peice of aluminum. The part on this arm that CAN get warn out is the ball joint on the lower end of the rod, or the end of the rod that is closest to the wheel. Or the upper "flex" joint located furthest from the wheel as well.

The joint, itself, cannot be replaced without replacing the entire rod.

EDIT: I would inspect, yourself, before getting this part replaced.

Also, make sure they are seeing the ball joint, itself, as being bad and not the lower rubber seat that the ball joint's bolt end sits in.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Or you can order the Infinity part that is available without the arm

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Joint is avaliable without the arm w/ Infinity?

I think the inner bushing is avaliable seperate, only, not the outer ball joint. And its prob only avaliable seperate because G35 initially had problems with the original inner bushings, so they offered cheap fix.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

You have a compression rod with a ball joint. The ball joint is shown being tested here.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

This is the end closest to wheel, or a good pic of the ball joint on the compression arm.

Notice the SEPERATE rubber cone-shaped lower ball joint seat that can easily be taken on/off.

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

FYI if your compression rod inner bushings are shot, Z1 will be putting out an aftermarket option in a few weeks.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

The inner bushing is normally the part that fails.

dragonfire6

iTrader: (3)

Thanks so much guys!!

I'm gonna go back tomorrow and have them point out the "ARM" that is faulty so I can figure out which joint/bushing needs to be replaced...

Sounds like I will be doing this myself and saving some $$$ woohoo!!

gelochi

I have the same problem too bro. So the only thing that would solve this is to buy the front lower compression rod which includes the ball joint and bushing. =X

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Guess you didn't read much , if its just the inner bushings that are bad, you can get them from infinity. The Chance of the arms actually being bad is slim, they only reason to replace the arms is if the ball joint is bad or you bent the arm.

gelochi

The rubber part that covers my ball joint is torn up and grease are coming out of it? Did yours do that?

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

The cone-shaped bushing over the ball-joint or the ball-joint's rubber cover?

gelochi

It was the ball joint's rubber cover. I'm thinking maybe that's why there was a lot of grease everywhere. Which sends me to have to buy the whole compression rod yea? =[ ]

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

if the boot is torn and the grease is coming out, it's a matter of time before it gets worse. I don't know of any replacement ball joints yet (haven't really look into it because it's not a common thing)

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Buy a new dust cover, you can get universal ones from energy syspension. Just because the dust cover is bad doesn't mean the ball joint is. I've personally had a car with a bad dust cover that i never replaced. It was bad for 3 years and over 100k miles were put on the car before i sold it. Don't sweat the small stuff.

My beater truck just got a new tie rod end boot about a year ago, the boot has been bad since about 01, that truck been mudding and everything else and the joint still didn't fail. Its not worth the cost to replace the joint till it fails.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

^ Labor hours will cost the same as replacing, but you will save on part cost.

Personally, i would replace te entire arm.....its not that expensive for the arm, and can you be sure of the amount of time you have been driving on it with the torn cover?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/54468n-...tml?cPath=714&

For 138 buck, you get new rod, new inner bushing, new balljoint w/cover and new rubber ball joint seat....why not.

I baby my car like that, though.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

For 45 minutes of my own time i can clean the old grease out , regrease , install new cover $10 and get the can back on the ground. Its actually only 1 17mm nut that need to be removed once you get the wheel off.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Ya but you know damn well a shop wont charge 45 min for that.

Im assuming he does not do his own work.

dragonfire6

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like I could probably do this on my own... I never had the time to make it to the shop again but this weekend the wheels are coming off and I'm going to inspect the bushings and joints to see specifically what the real problem is... I will post pics to get a second opinion...

I have another question... If my joint/bushings/both need to be replaced, would it be stupid to get an alignment before correcting the problem? Could these faulty parts cause a premature misalignment or do they have no bearing on the camber and toe settings???

From reading and researching it sounds like these parts can cause wear during braking (only???)

Thanks in advance...