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A arm installation tip

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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 10:48 AM
  #1  
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Z1NONLY
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From: SW Fl
Default A arm installation tip

I installed my Ichiba A-Arms to day and it was fast and easy thanks to a trick I used to avoid messing with the strut tower brace, sway bar end link, and shock/spring.

The tutorial I used says you have to drop the shock/spring down from its mount and pull the top out of the way in order to remove the bolts on the stock A-Arms. Otherwise, when you try to remove one of the bolts, it hits the spring before it is out of its hole and can't be removed.....

But, if you have the car on jack stands, you can use a hydraulic jack to compress the shock and spring just enough to move the sping [up] out of the way of the bolt. This trick made the install very easy for me.

*Note 1* I have RS*R Ti2000 springs so I don't know if this trick works with other springs. I was able to get at least a half inch of movment (probably more) with my springs.

*Note 2* The ichiba A-Arms came with the bushings, so I didn't have to take the old bushings off the stock arm.

*Note 3* Don't use the bolts that come with the Ichiba arms (for the ball joint) unless you also use a washer (not included). I ended up using the stock bolts because the ones that came with the arms were not wide enough and started to go in the hole. (The stock bolts are flared and don't have this problem.

Last edited by Z1NONLY; Dec 27, 2009 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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This method works for the KW V2's as well. I put both mine on within an hour.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1NONLY
I installed my Ichiba A-Arms to day and it was fast and easy thanks to a trick I used to avoid messing with the strut tower brace, sway bar end link, and shock/spring.

The tutorial I used says you have to drop the shock/spring down from its mount and pull the top out of the way in order to remove the bolts on the stock A-Arms. Otherwise, when you try to remove one of the bolts, it hits the spring before it is out of its hole and can't be removed.....

But, if you have the car on jack stands, you can use a hydraulic jack to compress the shock and spring just enough to move the spring [up] out of the way of the bolt. This trick made the install very easy for me.
Okay, so your jacking on the bottom of the lower control arm (translink) and pushing the shock up and that gives you the wee bit of room needed???


Originally Posted by Z1NONLY
*Note 1* I have RS*R Ti2000 springs so I don't know if this trick works with other springs. I was able to get at least a half inch of movment (probably more) with my springs.
You have stock shocks?? what year Z?


Originally Posted by Z1NONLY
*Note 3* Don't use the bolts that come with the Ichiba arms (for the ball joint) unless you also use a washer (not included). I ended up using the stock bolts because the ones that came with the arms were not wide enough and started to go in the hole. (The stock bolts are flared and don't have this problem.
do you mean the nut?? not a bolt ??

Flared HAT NUT?

-J
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:15 AM
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From: SW Fl
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
Okay, so your jacking on the bottom of the lower control arm (translink) and pushing the shock up and that gives you the wee bit of room needed???
Correct.


Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
You have stock shocks?? what year Z?
No. Koni sport shocks. "Yellows" . But I don't think they are any "shorter" than stock shocks. And the Z is an 05




Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
do you mean the nut?? not a bolt ??

Flared HAT NUT?

-J
Correct.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
Okay, so your jacking on the bottom of the lower control arm (translink) and pushing the shock up and that gives you the wee bit of room needed???
Actually as you remove the upper control arm bolt it hits the coil spring, but if you jack the car slightly you can move the coil to a point the bolt can move between winds of the coil.

Not needed for most coilovers since our spring have a smaller OD
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Actually as you remove the upper control arm bolt it hits the coil spring, but if you jack the car slightly you can move the coil to a point the bolt can move between winds of the coil.

Not needed for most coilovers since our spring have a smaller OD
okay cool....

yes i have seen that on my coilovers, im able to get it at with a little wiggle, etc.... or i remove the preload on the spring perch and turn the shock and like you say get it out inbetween coils..........

OP,

i only asked those questions so that is super clear for anyone else later doing these installls

I think ill add this thread to the suspension 101 thread as a data point for front control arm installs...

-J
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