cliffnotes-- how much faster will a toe of .21 in the rear scrub my tire as compared to .10??

So I had my alignment done today at Performance Chassis in Cary, NC. The guy Mark, does most of the car clubs in the area, so he's well versed in proper alignment.

I have front UCA and SPC rear camber and toe bolts.


After about 3 hours, he's done and shows me the spec sheet. I told him I wanted the rears flat as possible with .1 toe on each side and the front around -1.5 camber with .05 toe.

Well he set the fronts up to my specs, which now rubs my fender over bumps I didnt think I needed to say -1.5* or whatever wont rub as I know he wouldnt have sent any of his SCCA buddies out of the shop like that... ARGH

In my last alignment, the rear toe was even at .10 per side. This time, the passenger rear was .10 but the driver was .21. with an even camber of -1.6*

He said that the eccentric bolt was maxxed out and thats all he could get and has no idea why he was able to get .10 last time.

So here is one of the most reputable alignment shops in the Carolinas giving me the "it is what it is" lines.....

So what to do? I havent been under the car yet to check the toe bolt, which I have read can be messed up by the alignment shop.

I'm sure he hates working on my car as the front UCA are SPC and are hard to adjust but he charged me $200 so its not like he did anything for free.

 

If you double the toe, you double the wear (from toe, not the overall wear).

 

ya but that doesnt really mean much in terms of useable tire life...

Double the wear doesnt mean much since there is a range of acceptable toe. So thats like saying a toe of .10 with wear the tire 2x as fast a 0.05 toe. But we all know thats not the case as they are both within alignment spec.

I guess I shoulda asked if anyone is running a .2 toe in the rear and is seeing poor tire wear...

 

The Z's suspension design shoots the car from toe in to toe out in the range of suspension compression......as the Z squats whether it be from bump, etc the toe goes more to toe in, then with a big bump goes to toe out........

This is a bump steer and trust angle characteristic...through the range of the suspensions geometry.....

Im guessing that with your comment of "he wouldnt have sent any of his SCCA buddies out of the shop like that" that your car is a daily driven car...........more so a reason to stay within the factory specs, as your car will probably see the typical road bumps and toe in characteristics...........tire wear would be greater affected if your car is already "higher" on the toe aspect with .2 on one side..

ya, i think thats why he gave you the "it maxed out line"......my bet would be that the .20 side that "maxed" out has the NUT side eccentric washer pointing one way, and the head side eccentric washer pointing another......


-J

 

no idea why, because he didnt notice that one washer spun in the bolt and stayed lodged between the subframe "raised sections" the opposite direction!

thats my bet....its too typical from all the times I have "Seen" it happen!

EDIT - REVIEW WHAT I'M REFERRING TOO HERE ON THE SPC TOE BOLT SPINNING INSIDE THE FLAT SECTION OF THE SPC ECCENTRIC WASHER:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293599-post19.html
-J

 

Wear comes from several things, and depending on how you drive, road conditions, etc., the amount of wear from toe will vary. There's no way to predict what doubling the toe will do to yours, other than to say it's proportional to the amount of toe you have.

This is the perfect example of the old adage "your actual mileage may vary".

 

good deal. I'm getting the car on a lift tomorrow to check the toe bolt. If its turned incorrectly, I am going to call the shop and have him redo it.


otherwise, I might just go with the SPL rear midlink setup....

 

For those with OEM spring in spring bucket set ups I would HIGHLY Recommend that!!!! If i had an OEM type set up, that would be the ONLY way i would go!

spl pro midlink WITH SPL lockout washers!


-J

 

well considering it IS the only way to get more toe adjustability

I just have to decide what spring rates to go with as well, since I cant use my Stance 616lb/in springs. Car is mainly driven on the drag strip, so I might go softer.

 

The mid-links are a great work of creation. I had mine come in last week.

Yeah, you'll probably have to dump the Stance springs since I'm guessing they're as large a OEM. The mid-links take 2.5"ID springs and SPL will push that you should use Swift racing springs.

 

haha i tried to get an alignment at performance chassis but my car couldn't make it up their ramp.