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Keeping Endlinks Tight

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Old May 12, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #21  
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Cool, I'm going to give that a try.
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Old May 12, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by dkmesa350z
Cool, I'm going to give that a try.
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Old May 12, 2010 | 08:21 PM
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great info, thanks guys. i just need to find a prevailing nut for my whiteline endlinks now
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Old May 12, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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You just have to get JDM endlinks, cause they always tight.


I've only had mine back off once in the past 3 years, and i know i didn't tighten them much cause i was playing with the setting.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 03:35 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by mgrotel
great info, thanks guys. i just need to find a prevailing nut for my whiteline endlinks now
What thread pitch are the whiteline bolts?

-J
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Old May 13, 2010 | 06:02 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
What thread pitch are the whiteline bolts?

-J
they are listed in the contents section of the instructions in this pdf file:
http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z347_KLC010.pdf

2 m60 and 2 m70?
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Old May 13, 2010 | 06:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mgrotel
they are listed in the contents section of the instructions in this pdf file:
http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z347_KLC010.pdf

2 m60 and 2 m70?
WOW.....like I mentioned in my previous post #19, they are using what they call "Spacers - [ 12>10 ] - 8each x spacer - stepped 12mm to 10mm" - but what they are really doing is putting "bushings" in the holes and then using SMALLER M10 bolts, that are 60mm long and 70mm long.

typical M10 would be M10x1.5 or 1.75...

so you would have to check the threading and source prevailing torque lock nuts.........

I would also like to mention guys, that even though "I" call them here prevailing torque lock nuts, its not a standard name, though i have seen it used many times...........some companies sell them as many different names, so you have to call around and explain what your looking for..........some call them "TOP lock nuts"

-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; May 14, 2010 at 03:22 AM.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #28  
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so i just need to find M10 prevailing nuts?
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Old May 14, 2010 | 03:20 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mgrotel
so i just need to find M10 prevailing nuts?
yes, but you must first verify the pitch...M10 x 1.5 / 1.75 ????

remove one of the nuts, go to a hardware store and determine what it is, then source from there...

-J
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Old May 14, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #30  
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got it, thanks
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Old May 15, 2010 | 01:02 PM
  #31  
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I took the wheels off and checked them today. To my surprise they were both still really tight. I don't have time today to source the clunking I hear on large bumps, so it will have to be another day.
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Old May 15, 2010 | 05:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by =Cerberus=
I took the wheels off and checked them today. To my surprise they were both still really tight. I don't have time today to source the clunking I hear on large bumps, so it will have to be another day.
Yeah, both of mine were today as well...wonder what the clunking is.

I went to Ace to find prevailing nuts. They had the 10mm nuts like Jason mentioned, but I could tell those were too small for the front. They didn't have 12mm in prevailing, but I bought a pair of nylon lock washers in M12 X 1.25 for the time being.
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Old May 15, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dkmesa350z
Yeah, both of mine were today as well...wonder what the clunking is.

I went to Ace to find prevailing nuts. They had the 10mm nuts like Jason mentioned, but I could tell those were too small for the front. They didn't have 12mm in prevailing, but I bought a pair of nylon lock washers in M12 X 1.25 for the time being.
Just get the M12x1.25 prevailing nuts oem from the dealer that i mention above....


-J
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #34  
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As an FYI, the Powergrid endlinks are M12 x 1.75 in the front and M10 x1.5 rear. Found the following on Fastenal.com:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0A20000&ucst=t

The M12 lock nut is listed as grade A2 and made of stainless steel. Would this be appropriate for the application?

Unfortunately, it looks like the M10 lock nut is only sold by the box (90 pieces @ $144), although there is a Class 10 grade, zinc plated nut available for $.40 each. TIA.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:42 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Zoom750
As an FYI, the Powergrid endlinks are M12 x 1.75 in the front and M10 x1.5 rear. Found the following on Fastenal.com:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0A20000&ucst=t

The M12 lock nut is listed as grade A2 and made of stainless steel. Would this be appropriate for the application?

Unfortunately, it looks like the M10 lock nut is only sold by the box (90 pieces @ $144), although there is a Class 10 grade, zinc plated nut available for $.40 each. TIA.
see that "TOP LOCK NUTS"

how are the rear endlinks M10?? do they have a spacer/bushing that goes in the sway bar?

-J
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Old May 17, 2010 | 05:43 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
see that "TOP LOCK NUTS"

how are the rear endlinks M10?? do they have a spacer/bushing that goes in the sway bar?

-J
No bushings:



These use a nylon lock nut.
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Old May 29, 2010 | 07:51 AM
  #37  
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A little update, I just got under the car today with the intent of taking one whole side apart to find what was clunking. Turns out the sway bar bushing bracket bolts were loose. I cranked them back down and re seated the end links on both sides just in case.
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