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Brakes & Suspension 350Z stoppers, coils, shocks/dampers

Handbrake & BBK??

Old Jun 2, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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Default Handbrake & BBK??

I'm about to order a project mu bbk but I can't decide between the 2 & 4 piston rear kits. I've just been told though that the handbrake wont work with 4 piston rears? Any ideas if thats true because if it is i'll have to go for the 2 piston
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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I have no personal experience with the Project Mu 4 piston rear big brake kit, but were you given an explanation of why the handbrake would not work with that kit?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 03:45 AM
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Nothing from the supplier yet, they are still trying to find out for sure. One of the other guys whos buying aswell read somewhere that most bbks dont allow for use of the handbrake but after a bit more searching & asking people with the PMU kit it seems it will still work with 4piston rears
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 04:49 AM
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I'd steer away from a kit that does not either integrate the parking brake, or have provisions for one of it's own - sorta shows they didn't necessarily design the kit with this car in mind

Also, PMU has several rear calipers that they offer, I think at least 2 are 4 piston

Shoot me a PM with the kit you guys are considering, and I'll see what I can find out for you
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 05:15 AM
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maybe they wont work because the brakes are so damn overkill for the rears that your axle will rip the **** off once you apply the e-brake
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 05:56 AM
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I have just dealt with this very problem.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
I'd steer away from a kit that does not either integrate the parking brake, or have provisions for one of it's own - sorta shows they didn't necessarily design the kit with this car in mind

Also, PMU has several rear calipers that they offer, I think at least 2 are 4 piston

Shoot me a PM with the kit you guys are considering, and I'll see what I can find out for you
I'll email across the info to you once I get home

Originally Posted by kno
maybe they wont work because the brakes are so damn overkill for the rears that your axle will rip the **** off once you apply the e-brake
Overkill? Maybe but who cares

Originally Posted by lgear080
I have just dealt with this very problem.
And the answer was????
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 10:01 AM
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shameless plug that the oem ebrake works with our rear kits.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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^but no drifting on the aluminum hats.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 10:19 AM
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Ian go with some Endless.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Cux350z
^but no drifting on the aluminum hats.
I'd be surprised and disappointed if the Project Mu hats weren't also aluminum.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dikspiel
Ian go with some Endless.
I'm getting an amazing deal on the Mu's
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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Suffice it to say that if the rotor hats are improperly sized you're left
to hoping they've got a smaller hat (or the ebrakes gotta go!).

I will let you determine what I did to accomodate my rear 380 mm gt-r r35
brembo kit.

Never used that ebrake anyways...
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:22 AM
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As a reference point, the AP Racing rear kits work perfectly with the OE parking brake system. The street kits have iron hats for longevity, while the track-only kits have aluminum hats for weight savings.

Chris
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Cux350z
^but no drifting on the aluminum hats.
well.. you could.. you just be replacing the hats every so often..
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 07:04 AM
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Please explain, why can't you drift with aluminum hats? Does the heat build up warp them, if so why wouldn't the heat warp the aluminum calipers as well?
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by BrazenZ
Please explain, why can't you drift with aluminum hats? Does the heat build up warp them, if so why wouldn't the heat warp the aluminum calipers as well?
The rear hat on the 350Z incorporates the parking brake drum. Many drifters use the parking brake to start rotating the car. The parking brake shoes need a surface to run against that can handle the friction and heat. Iron works very well where aluminum gets chewed up in a hurry. Some try to insert a steel or iron ring into an aluminum hat, but this gets very tricky as aluminum expands much more than steel with temperature. It can be shrunk or interference fit when at room temp, but will start to loosen up at higher temps. A secondary mechanical method must also be used, which then starts to eat up the weight savings of going to aluminum in the first place!

Another problem with aluminum hats can happen when someone sets the parking brake after coming off of a track, canyon run or anywhere else where brake temperatures are elevated. Putting a large hoop stress on a hot aluminum parts can cause it to go out of round. Rule of thumb: Never set the parking brake when the brakes are very hot on any car.

Bottom line: Aluminum hats are best for racing or drifting, or where the driver fully understands what he can and cannot do with them.

Chris

Last edited by Chris_B; Jun 8, 2010 at 09:08 AM.
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
well.. you could.. you just be replacing the hats every so often..
Or do a hydraulic E brake, thats actually best for a dedicated drifter.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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Thanks for the explaination Chris B, That's makes perfect sense.
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