This might sound dumb, so feel free to call me out.

I'm lowered on Eibach Sportline springs. I have Eibach rear camber arms and SPC toe bolts but would like to avoid using the toe bolts for a few reasons. Assuming a little rear camber doesn't bother me (2 degrees or so), do you think the stock toe bolts have any chance of getting me to 0 toe? Or is there just no chance in hell and I need to hack away at my car? =/

I understand that adjusting the camber is what throws the toe out of whack.. sorta.. so.. yeah.

I would just try it but I don't want to pay for two alignments.

Thanks,
John

 

They work together, but throw it on the alignment rack and find out if you need them. Thats the only way.

 

you're hardly hacking away at the car by installing the toe bolts - at best its a few mm per side, takes all of a few minutes

 

That's what I was afraid of. Maybe someone has experience with Sportlines on stock bolts/arms though (hopefully? lol).

I just try to avoid irreversible things when it comes to the car. If I do cut out the extra space, would I ever be able to use the stock bolts again?

My other concern is the poor quality of the SPC bolts compared to OEM.

 

Yes stock bolts will still work just fine.

Don't blame you, but the other option is expensive. I also highly suggest getting SPL lockouts for your camber arms or get JasonZ-ya website and order the lockouts from him.

 

Already picked up a pair, thanks! And yeah, no true coil overs for me unfortunately, lol.

 

The SPC bolts are just fine in comparison to the OEM ones as well. Many times, people have issues due to the installation (putting the bolts in the wrong location, cutting out more than required even though a template is included, etc). If you're that worried about reports of the bolts walking (ie during track days/drift events, etc), some simple retaining rings physically prevents that.

You are not bringing your car back to spec with stock toe bolts on Sportline springs

 

Yeah, I had issues grinding holes in my baby too.

 

+1

i tried to do the same, after a 1.5" drop i tried to get the toe to oem specs with oem bolts and it couldnt do it.

 

But what was your camber? I mean surely if you are willing to run enough negative camber you could get back to OEM toe even after a drop, right? Or am I not understanding the concept correctly?

 

All cars are different< only way to finf out is throw it on the rack. My car was dropped 35mm for a while and i could get OEM toe at -2.1 camber.