good to know. thanks for the tips. i guess i'm gunna have to buy a case of beer for the old brake fluid to drain into. lol

 

I purchased the "motive power bleeder" due to all the hype for it. Ended up selling it and doing it the two person method. That motive power bleeder is a piece of chit.

 

^ Im guessing you dont know how to use it, cause its honestly quite easy - 1 person method.

what exactly was the problem??
-J

 

Followed the instructions to the tee. Just didn't work. The pressure would build up but for some reason didn't have enough force to do anything. Took it off, and re-did it multiple times with same result. All I am saying is it's a pos and the two person method works just fine. No need to spend the extra for that thing.

 

well, there are many on here that used it, along with myself, acidjake75 and others with great success, sorry it didn't work for ya.....its a great tool i would highly recommend, i guess not being there, there is no way to know exactly what happened? did the gauge show pressure?

I bet it pressurized to your brake petal master cyliner was closed, and when you were opening the bleeder valve at the calipers nothing was happening because you needed to at least push the brake pedal in once so pressure can pass the brake pedal master.....

-J

 

Aside from the numerous customers whom we've sold this item to without complaints I personally have used this bleeder on several of our cars here and it has worked wonderfully without incident. Maybe yours was busted, but then again you stated that you sold it.

 

What pressure do you guys pump it up to? I've tried 15-25 psi, and results seems better at the higher pressures.

 

I only go up to 15 psi and it seems to get the fluid moving and bleeding done quick.

I set a dos XX bottle at each wheel and once all set up and pumped to 15, im literally done in 5 minutes max.

The Z has cross manipulation braking on the ABS block, so i do

pump the motive to 15psi and then pump the break pedal once or twice
1. passenger side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
2. drivers side front
pump the break pedal at least once.
3. drivers side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
4. passenger side front.

when im done, the pressure will drop down to about 12psi when i walk back over to the motive to remove it.

done...
-J

 

I'm betting Goo$e's problem was pilot error. If you got it on there and pressurized, then there's no reason it's shouldn't bleed. You didn't leave the rubber part of the reservoir cover stuck on there and tried to put the bleeder over it, did you?

 

Damn, I might need to do this. My brake fluid is brown now. Never been changed before. My noob question is this, after you use the power bleeder, all you have to do is put fluid into the MC?

 

Even easier, just fill the power bleeder, connect to the MC, pressurize it, and open each wheel's bleed valve. When you are done, disconnect and wipe it up.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0h5bMoW-aw

 

^Thanks guys!

 

Ok I'm about to do mine with this, and I was under the impression that going

pass rear
drive rear
pass front
drive front

Have you done a bleed in this order as well? I was always told to start from the farthest wheel from the BMC then work to the closet wheel.

 

When removing the tube bleeding one brake, how do you keep the fluid from leaking out after tightening the valve?

 

Leaking out of where? When you tighten the valve, you cut off the flow of fluid. When you pull the hose from the fitting, a little might spill (keep a rag handy) but the rest runs down the tube to your catch bottle.

 

Ok. I figured once you tighten the valve, and pull the tube off, the fluid would come out of there. Maybe not a lot, but some of it at least.

 

I don't think the idea of bleeding the farthest from the MC first really has any validity anymore. I think that is a carry-over from the days where cars had only two tubes that ran out of the MC or proportioning valve then split again to the two sides of the car.

In a modern car, the tube from the MC runs to the ABS pump and it has separate tubes to each wheel. When you bleed the first brake, new fluid runs into the ABS pump then out the tube to that brake. When you do the second one, the pump is already primed with clean fluid, it's just the tube from the pump to that second brake that needs to be flushed. Repeat for brakes 3 & 4.

I have to admit though, out of habit, I always bleed the rears first then the fronts.

 

I guess it doesnt hurt to do it the old way.

 

I'm considering doing the clutch fluid replacement on my Z because my car is experiencing the "Clutch Soft" issue when the temperature gets very hot. I'm planning on changing the clutch line to "Metallic Braided" and use the Motul RBF600 fluid. I have a question about, how much fluid I need for the job and also if I need to pressurize the "Motive Power Bleeder" without nothing on it to force the all fluid to be flushed out of the system before changing the clutch line?