Motive Power Bleeder opinions?
The clutch holds a very small amount of fluid. A pint should probably do it easily.
Not sure if or how you could get the powerbleeder on the OEM clutch reservoir. The universal adapter is huge and it's got to fit in a very tight space.
I'm curious, do you still have the heat shield around the clutch line?
Not sure if or how you could get the powerbleeder on the OEM clutch reservoir. The universal adapter is huge and it's got to fit in a very tight space.
I'm curious, do you still have the heat shield around the clutch line?
There is a DIY for replacing the clutch reservoir with one made by Willwood that the adapter for the "Motive Power Bleeder" can be bought and it will work just like the brake reservoir. The shield its still on the clutch line but here in Dallas temperatures are hitting 105 - 110 degrees and I have headers and HF cat's that contributes to the excessive heat.
There is a DIY for replacing the clutch reservoir with one made by Willwood that the adapter for the "Motive Power Bleeder" can be bought and it will work just like the brake reservoir. The shield its still on the clutch line but here in Dallas temperatures are hitting 105 - 110 degrees and I have headers and HF cat's that contributes to the excessive heat.
I mentioned it here on post 16:
https://my350z.com/forum/8599886-post16.html
+1 on texas heat...
-J
The clutch holds a very small amount of fluid. A pint should probably do it easily.
Not sure if or how you could get the powerbleeder on the OEM clutch reservoir. The universal adapter is huge and it's got to fit in a very tight space.
I'm curious, do you still have the heat shield around the clutch line?
Not sure if or how you could get the powerbleeder on the OEM clutch reservoir. The universal adapter is huge and it's got to fit in a very tight space.
I'm curious, do you still have the heat shield around the clutch line?
I don't think the idea of bleeding the farthest from the MC first really has any validity anymore. I think that is a carry-over from the days where cars had only two tubes that ran out of the MC or proportioning valve then split again to the two sides of the car.
In a modern car, the tube from the MC runs to the ABS pump and it has separate tubes to each wheel. When you bleed the first brake, new fluid runs into the ABS pump then out the tube to that brake. When you do the second one, the pump is already primed with clean fluid, it's just the tube from the pump to that second brake that needs to be flushed. Repeat for brakes 3 & 4.
I have to admit though, out of habit, I always bleed the rears first then the fronts.
In a modern car, the tube from the MC runs to the ABS pump and it has separate tubes to each wheel. When you bleed the first brake, new fluid runs into the ABS pump then out the tube to that brake. When you do the second one, the pump is already primed with clean fluid, it's just the tube from the pump to that second brake that needs to be flushed. Repeat for brakes 3 & 4.
I have to admit though, out of habit, I always bleed the rears first then the fronts.
Have you noticed a difference between both way of bleeding? Just curious.
Can someone confirm that is the correct sequence?
Thanks
pump the motive to 15psi and then pump the break pedal once or twice
1. passenger side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
2. drivers side front
pump the break pedal at least once.
3. drivers side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
4. passenger side front.
when im done, the pressure will drop down to about 12psi when i walk back over to the motive to remove it.
done...
-J
1. passenger side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
2. drivers side front
pump the break pedal at least once.
3. drivers side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
4. passenger side front.
when im done, the pressure will drop down to about 12psi when i walk back over to the motive to remove it.
done...
-J
its a safety feature in most cars now actually and the Z has it.
you can read where this guy bought his car with a hydro ebrake with out taking this into consideration how it was plumbed here and wanted to turn the abs back on just to turn off the lights on his dash: (ie, he daily drives the car -
)https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...=cross+braking
-J
to show what im talking about, i took this pic from a drift thread....
here is the abs block(aka VDC/TCS/ABS ACTUATOR) where all 4 lines are tied into...if you read the top of this aluminum block you will see that the brakes are criss crossed.......ie, it says FL/RR, FR/RL or some type of designation that indicates position..i forget..
This block is tucked under the plastic a bit near the brake booster...go check it out..
ignore the print in red.
Besides, the cross braking is taken into consideration by nissan, as they list the criss cross brake bleed procedure themselves in the FSM:
Read step 2 and 7.
-J
here is the abs block(aka VDC/TCS/ABS ACTUATOR) where all 4 lines are tied into...if you read the top of this aluminum block you will see that the brakes are criss crossed.......ie, it says FL/RR, FR/RL or some type of designation that indicates position..i forget..
This block is tucked under the plastic a bit near the brake booster...go check it out..
ignore the print in red.
Besides, the cross braking is taken into consideration by nissan, as they list the criss cross brake bleed procedure themselves in the FSM:
Read step 2 and 7.
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Aug 19, 2010 at 12:55 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NY
Just bought one for $62 shipped. Im excited to bleed my brakes since its never been done. My cars an 04 with 52,000mi. Hopefully it'll improve my braking.
I was watching a DIY video and it looks like it takes quite a while to bleed. Anyone have any insight as to how long it takes to do the job?
I was watching a DIY video and it looks like it takes quite a while to bleed. Anyone have any insight as to how long it takes to do the job?
First time may take longer, but I can do a bleed in about 20 minutes and a full flush in about an hour. The 20 minutes involves cheating. I can bleed the Brembos through the spokes of my wheels so I don't have to remove them which saves time. When doing a full flush, I prefer to remove the wheels so you can add time to put the car on jack stands, remove wheels, etc.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
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From: NY
Thats what I plan on doing Dave. Gotta take the wheels off, which is going to add significant time to the job but it has to be done. Question though, how do you know when to stop the fluid from each caliper? Im not going to be using superblue, so i wont have any idea when its the clean fluid.
I do the right rear first and drain a good pint or more of fluid through it. That should clean out the caliper, the line to it and the abs piping, etc. I then do the left rear and drain just under a pint of fluid. I move to the right front and drain about a half-pint then do the left front the same amount.
You'll notice the dirty stuff out of the caliper go through quickly each time then the clear stuff drains for a while. I'm probably wasting fluid but it's better to be safe and over do it. I start with two quarts in the Motive unit and finish with maybe a pint left.
Being **** about it - I try not to aggitate the fluid in the Motive unit so as not to cause any more moisture to be absorbed than necessary.
You'll notice the dirty stuff out of the caliper go through quickly each time then the clear stuff drains for a while. I'm probably wasting fluid but it's better to be safe and over do it. I start with two quarts in the Motive unit and finish with maybe a pint left.
Being **** about it - I try not to aggitate the fluid in the Motive unit so as not to cause any more moisture to be absorbed than necessary.
Last edited by DavesZ#3; Sep 7, 2010 at 04:02 PM.
