Rear OEM Style Coilover Adjustment Issues
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Tried searching and even found some things on myg37.com but nothing that was really helping me. I installed my BC Racing coilovers the other day but i've ran into trouble with the rear end height adjustment. I removed the rubber cone that holds the stock spring and put the BC Racing spring mount in it's place and slid the spring into place making sure the spring fell into the groove. I adjust the shock height down equally on both sides and installed the shocks. Well this is where I began to scratch my head. After settling my rear end almost tucks tire on each side. So i took it apart again and seen that you need to adjust the spring side as well as the shock side to raise the car. Fine. Did that and it brought it up a bit. Well after driving more it's settled some more and i'm back to tucking the tire in the rear but front sits at the very top of the tire like I wanted leaving me an uneven drop.
Do I keep raising the shock part of the rear to raise the height? If I do then the spring becomes loose until I drop the car back down. Is this okay?
Any insight on what I may or may not have done right? I made sure everything was installed right, and even double checked my work.
Also, whenever going over medium to large bumps in the road, the sound that is made when i hit it can only be described as a large box in the hatch flying in the air and slamming back down. Am I bottoming out?
Any help would be appreciated.
Do I keep raising the shock part of the rear to raise the height? If I do then the spring becomes loose until I drop the car back down. Is this okay?
Any insight on what I may or may not have done right? I made sure everything was installed right, and even double checked my work.
Also, whenever going over medium to large bumps in the road, the sound that is made when i hit it can only be described as a large box in the hatch flying in the air and slamming back down. Am I bottoming out?
Any help would be appreciated.
Just from looking at the pictures of it, if the spring is in the OEM location, that should be the only thing you have to adjust to change height. The threaded shock body should be to adjust droop, and shouldn't be the one being adjusted to raise the vehicle.
http://splparts.com/instructions/SPL_RML_Z33.pdf
Take a look at page 3. It explains how to set up droop.
Take a look at page 3. It explains how to set up droop.
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I don't have any until tomorrow of mine, but this is identical to mine.
As you can see here, the spring fits just like stock but uses it's own adjustment mount. Mine are all the way down make the ride height higher, but mine is still tuckin lol
As you can see here, the spring fits just like stock but uses it's own adjustment mount. Mine are all the way down make the ride height higher, but mine is still tuckin lol
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I'm thinking I received the shorter spring then lol I love the stance, but until the Volks come in and my fenders get rolled, i don't need to be this slammed at all. If i were to lower the spring to the max i swear the wheel would tuck too.
Where did you dig that up if you don't mind me asking?
Where did you dig that up if you don't mind me asking?
I should have linked it, but I think it was on google. Coincidentally though the google link was to this very site. It's on here somewhere, owner had installed pics, with notes added to differentiate between pics of car with standard spring, and the shorter spring.
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If you can find it please link me as I will continue to search.
Dustin@Injected Performance requested pictures and some measurements and he said he would personally call the owner of BC Racing to figure what needs to be fixed for me.
So i'm hoping I can get a solution or resolution to this.
Dustin@Injected Performance requested pictures and some measurements and he said he would personally call the owner of BC Racing to figure what needs to be fixed for me.
So i'm hoping I can get a solution or resolution to this.
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I found the thread talking about the shorter springs vs the standard spring. There was a guy on the last page complaining that his rear tires are tucking as well and has it all the way up. I have to have the lower springs, there is no question after seeing others cars being an inch above the tire.
I specifically asked for the standard rear springs when I got mine a few months ago.
From ground to wheel arch on stock springs was 705mm rear and 680mm front. On the BC Racing coilovers I now have 680mm rear and 655mm front. Still plenty of adjustment up/down left. I have 20mm bolt on spacers on the rear and 15mm bolt on spacers on the front.
With the mild drop and spacer the rear camber blew out to -2.9° so now I have maxed out the stock adjustment and got it back to -1.8° (each side)
Doing this resulted in a lot of toe in which I have adjusted back to ~2mm toe in (total). Think perhaps I should reduce this more. Comments?
Front camber has ended up at -1.4°


From ground to wheel arch on stock springs was 705mm rear and 680mm front. On the BC Racing coilovers I now have 680mm rear and 655mm front. Still plenty of adjustment up/down left. I have 20mm bolt on spacers on the rear and 15mm bolt on spacers on the front.
With the mild drop and spacer the rear camber blew out to -2.9° so now I have maxed out the stock adjustment and got it back to -1.8° (each side)
Doing this resulted in a lot of toe in which I have adjusted back to ~2mm toe in (total). Think perhaps I should reduce this more. Comments?
Front camber has ended up at -1.4°


Last edited by Buster-here; Aug 20, 2010 at 06:36 PM. Reason: Added 3rd image detailing spring rate
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Man, yours is so much higher than man ever thought about being. I'm tucking stock tires with 25mm spacers and i'm sure my camber is crazy. I'm gonna take off the spacers tomorrow and order a new set. Where you have your springs locked in I have mine at the max height it will allow and i'm still tucking the tire. I have a camber kit and rear toe bolts so I should have a problem getting back into spec.
I'm 50. Not sure my age group go for the slammed look.
I don't want to roll the rear fenders. No rubbing so far.
Car is used about 85% highway, 10% city, and 5% track. I bought it new early 2009, on the cheap, just before the 370z was released in NZ (sorry - still not feeling the 370z). 13,000 kms on mine now.
I picked up some pre owned Track 18" v.1 wheels on TradeMe for use at the track. Lighter than the Touring 18" v.2 that came with the car and means I can just leave the spacers alone.
I intend to leave the height alone once I decide where I want it to be.
I bought a pair of cheap 500kg platform scales and have started mucking around weighing the car (one end at a time - blocks under the other end to level the car) with a view to corner balancing. Want to stick with the stock sway bars for now and see how it goes - may replace in the future. So, i've been considering the end link options out there, but in the end just settled for buying two THK ball links from an outlet just along the road from where I live and making up one link for the rear.
Question - do we absolutely have to buy these in pairs?
It seems to me that with an oem fixed link on one side and a similar but adjustable end link on the other side it is still possible to preload or unload the sway bar if required. Interestingly the Nissan end links are made by THK in Japan. They weigh about 160 grams. The replacement I made came in at 250 grams

I went with coilovers in the first place for the height adjustability, firmer springs in the front, and ability to soften the ride for the highway but firm up on the track.
Lovin this car.
I don't want to roll the rear fenders. No rubbing so far.
Car is used about 85% highway, 10% city, and 5% track. I bought it new early 2009, on the cheap, just before the 370z was released in NZ (sorry - still not feeling the 370z). 13,000 kms on mine now.
I picked up some pre owned Track 18" v.1 wheels on TradeMe for use at the track. Lighter than the Touring 18" v.2 that came with the car and means I can just leave the spacers alone.
I intend to leave the height alone once I decide where I want it to be.
I bought a pair of cheap 500kg platform scales and have started mucking around weighing the car (one end at a time - blocks under the other end to level the car) with a view to corner balancing. Want to stick with the stock sway bars for now and see how it goes - may replace in the future. So, i've been considering the end link options out there, but in the end just settled for buying two THK ball links from an outlet just along the road from where I live and making up one link for the rear.
Question - do we absolutely have to buy these in pairs?
It seems to me that with an oem fixed link on one side and a similar but adjustable end link on the other side it is still possible to preload or unload the sway bar if required. Interestingly the Nissan end links are made by THK in Japan. They weigh about 160 grams. The replacement I made came in at 250 grams
I went with coilovers in the first place for the height adjustability, firmer springs in the front, and ability to soften the ride for the highway but firm up on the track.
Lovin this car.
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Okay here are some pictures I managed to take.
Spring number on the side is 62 97 210 008
Notice I have mine adjusted to the max I can go




This is high as it will allow me to go.
Spring number on the side is 62 97 210 008
Notice I have mine adjusted to the max I can go




This is high as it will allow me to go.
Last edited by FilthyZ; Aug 14, 2010 at 05:50 AM.
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Eastern NC
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-thread-2.html
Apparently, there's an older and a newer version.



