Hello, i searched the forums alot and i couldent find any solid information on toe arms, just toe bolts. Right now my Z is slammed to the ground and i have a huge toe issue so i need a toe arm asap. I researched alot and from what i can see, there are 3 companies that make toe arms/links. Battleversion, Circuit sport and SPL. The price between circuit sport is drastically lower then battle version and SPL, is there a reason for that? Could i get away with those if im not tracking my Z? I'm low on money so cheap would be nice, but if its nessesary, ill spend the extra money to get the quality. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Once again if there was information on this and i couldent find it, i'm sorry.

 

Nothing's wrong with CS. But by using toe-arm, you'd either use true coilovers in the rear (for CS and Cusco arms) or get replacement springs with SPL.

Personally, I'd go with SPL for their quality work.

 

Get the cheap ones if its just a lowrider with screwed up suspension. SPL if you want high quality parts.

 

TOE ARMS are mounted to REPLACE the spring bucket!
ARE YOU using true coilovers???

if not, then your mistaking adjustable radius rods as toe arms.....and those are not toe arms...but will aid in adjusting toe...??


moving on,
CS use crappy cast rod ends on their units........along with weak teflon lined that break and then move and wiggle enough to make toe go to crap..


From the 3 listed battle version is the only one i would consider as they are left and right hand threaded... and toe adjustment can be dialed in.....I made my own just because of this - READ post 188-190 here:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-101-a-10.html

-J

 

yeah im on true coilover set up right now. So it seems CS fits the expression, "you get what you pay for" So for the CS, the bad rod ends, what does this cause? Adjustability the same for all of them?

 

adjustment is different on them all...

Battle Version - you turn the entire arm itself and they expand or contract depending on which way you turn them....like mentioned on the link i gave you on post 188-190 linked above since they are LEFT and RIGHT hand threaded......get it??

SPL - uses a rather nice hybrid adjuster, so adjustment for them is easy, but no way to actually keep a dial, for indicating toe.......a feature you may not care for but ya...

-J

 

I see, wonderful information. So it seems like battleversion is the way to go, its just pretty costy

 

This is incorrect, our SPL hybrid adjuster is also left and right threaded, and toe adjustment can be dialed in just the same. Each turn of our hybrid adjuster is 0.139". Each 1/6 rotation (hex face) is 0.023"

In fact, our hybrid adjuster has several advantages over the old left/right threaded adjuster assembly like your toe arms or battle version's. Our hybrid adjuster gives 50% greater adjustment range (~1.5" vs. 1"), plus the clamp system prevents rotation of the bearing when setting the adjustment:

 

NO, its correct information.....yours is L&R thread on ONLY one end...subframe end.

I choose to make my own because i can mark a clear spot on my design arm with relation to the lug side (rear spindle side) and dial in toe within arms reach with out having to crawl near the subframe lug side.....

50 percent greater adjustment range??? measured off of what other design? you can only adjust on one side...semi hindered by the subframe LUG that its semi enclosed on the adjuster

Moreso if your lowered a lot that subframe end is even more trapped by the subframe lug as the toe arm angle comes up into the subframe........

What size wrench needs to fit between the subframe lug in there to adjust that hybrid adjuster?? thats why you sell that lil special wrench on your site as well.....

besides, adjustment range is small - toe range would be but a few turns max at any height the car is lowered too....

The clamp feature is nice, but centering the rod end when adjusting isn't hard with quality ends....any good lock nut on the end of the old design L/R threaded arm will keep there when done too...

-J

 

You have 1 side that is left threaded and 1 side that is right threaded. We have 1 side that is left threaded and 1 side that is right threaded. That allows the part to be adjusted on the car without disconnecting anything. They are both double adjusters, they perform the same function. You are implying that our adjuster is NOT left and right threaded and does not work the same way.

Your adjustment range is constrained by the amount of safe thread engagement on the rod end, regardless of how long the other side is. With a jam nut on the bearing, you have about 1/2" thread available for adjustment on the rod end side. So your total safe adjustment range is 1".

Our adjuster has greater adjustment range because a) we do not have a jam nut on the rod end, and b) the larger thread side is longer and uses a larger thread pitch. So every turn of the adjuster takes 1/18" of the rod end, but 1/12" at the arm side.

Our adjuster clears the subframe lug. Only the clamp lies between the subframe lugs, and the clamp can be spun to any angle to tighten.

This picture is the only one handy, but look at the left side of the picture, it is clear our adjuster hex is accessible:



The wrench is offered as a accessory for convenience, it is not a necessity.

Every race team I deal with loves the hybrid mechanism over the traditional jam nut, it is far more accurate and easier to set. There is no thread slack takeup when you tighten the jam nut. The rod end does not try to rotate when you tighten the jam nut. Can the traditional jam nut mechanism be adjusted correctly? Of course it can, but its more of a hassle, which for an alignment shop being paid by the job, means they are less inclined to spend the extra time to make sure its right.

We have had this discussion before, and I remain concerned about your conflict of interest when you are pushing your own products on this forum.

 

I'm not implying that, but "one side of the arm" is adjustable. believe me, i know exactly how yours works....your not teaching me anything.....yes, it can be adjusted with out disconnecting anything i agree.

Funny how you seem to know the specs of "my" own arms...do you know how long my rod end is? length of the RH threaded bolt on the other end?? the diameter of it? material specs?...how you poop out 1 inch as "my" safe adjustment range really boggles my mind, but sure okay...

Im not ONCE in this thread knocking your adjuster....look at post#6, i actually say its a "nice hybrid adjuster, so adjustment for them is easy"

your product is top notch, just not for me...


once again, not a lowered car.the lower you go, the tigher that angle gets and the shorter the toe arm gets.....its not completely hindering, but I have installed your toe arms before on peoples 350z's and its not exactly clear either...

edit - added this link so people can see a lowered car and the tight upward pointing angle a toe arm sees when on a "lowered" Z.....race teams dont lower that low.
https://my350z.com/forum/8659374-post3.html

OK...

OK..
I don't see threads after threads selling products anywhere on this site under my name......I'm not a vendor here, but some of the same people here are the same people on sites I am a vendor at...........so that doesn't matter.......

welcome to this free posting forum where people can comment on products all day long weather you like it or not.....welcome to the free market.............im a member at tons of Z forums......

why no customer review page on your site?

once again, I posted on a forum, my interpretation of products, never once slandered yours, but i did crap talk about Circuit sports arms......posting to defend your product, i dont blame you...you do have good products I agree, as I have many spl products on my car.......you know this, cause i bought them from you in person......so i dont have bad things to say about SPL, but your toe arms arent for me......it is what it is...

-J

 

Unless you are using a custom 5/8" rod end, a standard 5/8" rod end has a pretty standard thread length, which will give 1" adjustment range. I know it off the top of my head because I did that calculation before.

The issue is that you are a moderator, you are supposed to be impartial, you are in a position of trust. I am a paying sponsor, that means people know my posts are commercial, people can see that and they will take what I say with a grain of salt. Now, everything I say, I truly believe in. I do believe that you believe in what you say as well. But people will judge what I say differently from what you say, because you are a moderator and I am a commercial sponsor.

 

yes, very custom...i pay top dollar for the ones i have on my car...what happens if i have a longer opposite side RH thread unit...

before i was a moderator, i was a typical member, being a moderator doesnt give me any position of trust, my many post helping people gives me position of trust...

you come on here to post for sale threads and advertise products ONLY.....then yes, people may see you as a commerical sponsor voice, i agree......

how about you reply to the many threads with your expertise on suspension...we have been here before only because you choose to never comment on my suspension 101 thread even after being asked to by me on pm.............you bickered at me for making it....yet never posted on the 101 thread adding your expertise..

who chooses to be the voice that stands up in hopes to help everyone by making a suspension 101 thread..........i do, with good intentions only...

so if people trust my expertise, at whatever level they wanna judge it, its not because i have a mod title........its because im the only one speaking......

you can provide pics, post details, give insight like no other on the topic......just like u did today....do it more often, with professionalism and its welcomed by all minus consumer position or not...

I know SPL is recognized.....many post comments all over talking of spl's quality........its there.....give more and make more is what i say...but thats on you..

I know you know your stuff......is why i choose to meet you in person......buy your upper arms, compression arms bushings, etc...I spoke of your compression arm bushings to 2 people and those 2 people gave me cash to buy them when i was last in Austin..........

since then i have a guy in Louisiana driving into DFW this weeknd just to have me install YOUR Compression arm bushings........so do i belive in SPL products..yes sir...do i have them all, no. but again, im a consumer like everyone else with my own opinions and choices..


-J

 

I was at turbo toyz in Tampa the other day. They had a pair of used battle version toe arms. They wanted 150 for them. Not sure if they would ship them to you for a little extra. Call them. I'm ordering my SPL toe arms tomorrow. Make sure you get a lockout kit so you can trash or sell those crappy SPC toe bolts. If you don't your toe will slip out of spec easily. SPL and Jason both sell the kit for around 50$

 

I keep out of posts where members ask about what to buy, because the last thing anyone wants is a vendor cluttering up every post saying "buy SPL". Instead I let my customers post their own opinions, that ultimately is the best feedback.

I see a conflict of interest when you reply to a member's post, provide them incorrect or misleading information about my products, steer them to another product, which "oh btw" if you read the link you posted, that member will find that you offer a similar product that is more readily available and less expensive. If I did that without paying sponsor fees, I am fairly sure I would get warned off. So I don't think this is appropriate, especially for a moderator.

 

i just wanted to say that i have not had any issues adjusting my midlinks(same adjuster). i have done no less than 30 alignments on it with numerous different setups/ride heights. i use my regular unmodified snap-on open end wrenches.

the hybrid adjuster is worth its weight in gold if you do your own alignments---i hate when specs change while tightening a jam nut, by far the most frustrating thing when doing an alignment.

jason, i understand the desire to have preset marks for quicker alignment--much like most camber plates for strut cars have. however, given my experience with them, regular measured alignments are still needed to ensure those marks are still accurate. given that, they are little more than a novelty imo. fine tune adjustments at the track can be made with other more accessible components.

 

^ hey i hear ya Bimmer.....

I just choose to purchase/make what i wanted....i like my method, i use NTB 5 year alignment program and go to alignments often prior to drift or autoX events, so for me its what i like.

Kual, your opinion on lack of post count is your choice/opinion, there is a way to reply and give feedback on any subject...you act as if you cant post anything.....

I don't dog your product, heck i would be more understanding if CS came on here and didnt like what i wrote about theirs...... nor do i feel i give misleading information........I maybe didn't say it the way u want, (once again, i know exactly how yours work), but i gave my OPINION on your product.

regardless, your welcome to come post "as you did" with a nice little pic showing how your product works, how to adjust, bearing bind, etc.............

Welcome to a forum......I love LH/RH thread on OPPOSITE end adjustment products....i prefer it over your arms........there are many other spl products on my car, plus SPL part install DIY/how to threads I have made raving on your parts/products........so for you and everyone, im not spl hater, im just giving my opinion on a F.o.r.u.m........

-J

 

I'm getting true coilovers, have read your treat on suspensions, but I was wondering what happens if i don't reaplace the spring bucket, like just install the true coilovers and leave the spring bucket there.
Do I have to reaplace it with a toe arm? I'm
Not going crazy law or track or anything just got new wheels and trying to get rid of the gap and make the wheels look good nothing else.