Urgent brake rotor Help (pics) LONG
10-22-2010, 06:47 PM
#1
Urgent brake rotor Help (pics) LONG
Guys help me out 
I got the rear wheel bearings replacement from a dealership so i went through the same procedure of replacing bearings again. Everything went through perfectly other than torquing down the two caliper bracket bolts. I set the harbor freight (garbage) torque wrench to 110 ft/lbs and start torquing down the two bolts. I felt really weird when torquing them down because i felt like i tightened it 110 ft/lbs but the damn wrench is not clicking.. I wasn't sure if i should trust my feeling or the wrench but decided to trust the wrench. I kept on going but still no clikcing. So i loosened them and inspected the threads. The middle of the threads look like they have been squeezed. Threads are OK but the diameter is shortened..
So the problem is, after i put everything back on (torqued the two bolts by feeling) and took it out of garage. As i was rolling out of garage, i hear HARD scraping sound from the rotor. Very strong resistance when rolling. I rolled forward few meters more but the sound was getting worse so i drove back into garage to see what's wrong.
Inner side of the rotor is scraped CRAZY in circular pattern and the edge of brake pads were cracked. (pic) Little crack on e-brake pad but dunno if it was there previously. I checked the dust cover to see if anything was scraping the rotor but didn't notice anything. srsly, there's nothing that could cause this scrape
There are some metal shaving on the top side of the dust cover and quite a few on the bottom side. (pic) 
PLEASE give me some ideas on where it could be scraping.
EDIT: i'm not sure but i feel like I hear the rotor scrape when the brake caliper is not on. (OFC i hear it scrape more with the caliper on)
I got the rear wheel bearings replacement from a dealership so i went through the same procedure of replacing bearings again. Everything went through perfectly other than torquing down the two caliper bracket bolts. I set the harbor freight (garbage) torque wrench to 110 ft/lbs and start torquing down the two bolts. I felt really weird when torquing them down because i felt like i tightened it 110 ft/lbs but the damn wrench is not clicking.. I wasn't sure if i should trust my feeling or the wrench but decided to trust the wrench. I kept on going but still no clikcing. So i loosened them and inspected the threads. The middle of the threads look like they have been squeezed. Threads are OK but the diameter is shortened..So the problem is, after i put everything back on (torqued the two bolts by feeling) and took it out of garage. As i was rolling out of garage, i hear HARD scraping sound from the rotor. Very strong resistance when rolling. I rolled forward few meters more but the sound was getting worse so i drove back into garage to see what's wrong.
Inner side of the rotor is scraped CRAZY in circular pattern and the edge of brake pads were cracked. (pic) Little crack on e-brake pad but dunno if it was there previously. I checked the dust cover to see if anything was scraping the rotor but didn't notice anything. srsly, there's nothing that could cause this scrape
There are some metal shaving on the top side of the dust cover and quite a few on the bottom side. (pic) PLEASE give me some ideas on where it could be scraping.
EDIT: i'm not sure but i feel like I hear the rotor scrape when the brake caliper is not on. (OFC i hear it scrape more with the caliper on)
Last edited by JDMStanced; 10-22-2010 at 06:51 PM.
10-22-2010, 08:05 PM
#3
your under the car and you cant see where its scraping? (with the wheel on)
Ive have my HF torque wrench for awhile now - they are cheap but you get what you pay for and Ive never had an issue with it...so that sux about yours..(I lub HF
) you sure the caliper bolts aint pokin through and rubbing on the rotor?
Ive have my HF torque wrench for awhile now - they are cheap but you get what you pay for and Ive never had an issue with it...so that sux about yours..(I lub HF
) you sure the caliper bolts aint pokin through and rubbing on the rotor?
10-22-2010, 08:09 PM
#4
your under the car and you cant see where its scraping? (with the wheel on)
Ive have my HF torque wrench for awhile now - they are cheap but you get what you pay for and Ive never had an issue with it...so that sux about yours..(I lub HF) you sure the caliper bolts aint pokin through and rubbing on the rotor?
Ive have my HF torque wrench for awhile now - they are cheap but you get what you pay for and Ive never had an issue with it...so that sux about yours..(I lub HF
) you sure the caliper bolts aint pokin through and rubbing on the rotor?Now i have the caliper bracket off but still hear scraping when i turn the rotor by hand. It gets worse when the rotor is more forced against the hub (like torquing down the wheels)
The scraping has to be somewhere between the rotor and the dust cover..
i have a proto torque wrench but it's too long to fit inside the wheel well.
EDIT: I just made an order for rear right centric rotor. i don't know if i can use 310mm outer diameter rotor one side and 295.7mm outer diameter on the other side..Can i?
Last edited by JDMStanced; 10-22-2010 at 08:37 PM.
10-22-2010, 08:18 PM
#6
scary lolCould tightening the caliper bolts really tight bend anything to make this happen?
EDIT: wow the caliiper bolt was scraping it..thx jake. Somehow one of the bolts were ELONGATED..i guess it could've been from the mid of the stud getting skinnier and causing the whole stud to elongate.
Last edited by JDMStanced; 10-22-2010 at 11:43 PM.
cheap fix, but may have to wait a day or so to order from Nissan.
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10-23-2010, 08:13 AM
#8
Anyone know if i can run 310mm rotor (OEM) one side and different diameter of rotor on the otherside? I checked autowarehouse but they don't carry the same size. i have std brakes.
Also, how much do the caliper bolts run for? couldn't find any from courtesy parts
10-23-2010, 08:25 AM
#9
Registered User
Isn't this the caliper bolt you're talking about? Two of them hold the caliper to the rear axle housing.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/0804423...8-p-16170.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/0804423...8-p-16170.html
Last edited by winchman; 10-23-2010 at 08:28 AM.
10-23-2010, 08:37 AM
#10
Isn't this the caliper bolt you're talking about? Two of them hold the caliper to the rear axle housing.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/0804423...8-p-16170.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/0804423...8-p-16170.html
now i just hope irvine dealership sell it for around$4. They quoted me freaking like $8 for the upper bumper clip where Riverside infiniti sold it for like $2
Last edited by JDMStanced; 10-23-2010 at 08:41 AM.
10-23-2010, 09:25 AM
#11
You must have been hanging from the torque wrench to be able to overtighten and deform those bolts! Where did you come up with the 110 ft-lb requirement for the caliper bolts? There aren't any that require more than around 75 ft-lbs, most are in the 50-70 ft-lb range.
For a simple wheel bearing replacment that could have been done under warranty, this sure is turning out to be an expensive and time-consuming mis-adventure, isn't it?
For a simple wheel bearing replacment that could have been done under warranty, this sure is turning out to be an expensive and time-consuming mis-adventure, isn't it?
10-23-2010, 09:38 AM
#12
You must have been hanging from the torque wrench to be able to overtighten and deform those bolts! Where did you come up with the 110 ft-lb requirement for the caliper bolts? There aren't any that require more than around 75 ft-lbs, most are in the 50-70 ft-lb range.
For a simple wheel bearing replacment that could have been done under warranty, this sure is turning out to be an expensive and time-consuming mis-adventure, isn't it?
For a simple wheel bearing replacment that could have been done under warranty, this sure is turning out to be an expensive and time-consuming mis-adventure, isn't it?
Dealers don't honor warranty for simple wheel bearing replacement. i really hate most of the dealers, other than rivierside infiniti lol, so i just spent some money to avoid dealers. i have fun working on my car so it's all good. I especiallly didn't want to go through this "we need to check to see if this is under warranty (test drive and all that), and if it's not under warranty then you need to pay for diagnostic." "How much is that?" "$200, sir" "f you lol"
10-23-2010, 11:42 AM
#13
Wheel bearings are covered under the 5Yr/60K drivetrain coverage. They aren't considered a "wear and tear" item that would normally be excluded from coverage.
From the Warranty manual:
I took it that you were under warranty based on your statements from your other thread. On an item like that you'd be looking at less than 1 hr diagnostic charge - $65-$75 probably.
From the Warranty manual:
FOR HOW LONG AND WHAT IS
COVERED
■ BASIC COVERAGE
• The basic coverage period is 36 months or 36,000
miles, whichever comes first.
• This warranty covers any repairs needed to correct
defects in materials or workmanship of all parts and components
of each new Nissan vehicle supplied by Nissan
except for the exclusions or items listed under the caption
"WHAT IS NOT COVERED" or as indicated below.
■ POWERTRAIN COVERAGE
• The Powertrain coverage period is 60 months or 60,000
miles, whichever comes first.
• This warranty covers any repairs needed to correct
defects in materials or workmanship.
• Powertrain coverage applies to components listed below,
supplied by Nissan except for those items listed
under the caption “WHAT IS NOT COVERED”.
ENGINE
Cylinder heads and block and all internal parts, rocker
covers and oil pan, valve train and front cover, timing chain
and tensioner, oil pump, water pump and fuel pump, fuel
injectors, intake and exhaust manifolds and supercharger,
flywheel, seals, and gaskets.
TRANSMISSION AND TRANSAXLE
Case and all internal parts, torque converter and converter
housing, automatic transmission control module, transfer
case and all internal parts, seals and gaskets, clutch cover
and housing, and electronic transmission controls.
DRIVETRAIN
Drive shafts, final drive housing and all internal parts,
propeller shafts, universal joints, bearings, seals and gaskets.
COVERED
■ BASIC COVERAGE
• The basic coverage period is 36 months or 36,000
miles, whichever comes first.
• This warranty covers any repairs needed to correct
defects in materials or workmanship of all parts and components
of each new Nissan vehicle supplied by Nissan
except for the exclusions or items listed under the caption
"WHAT IS NOT COVERED" or as indicated below.
■ POWERTRAIN COVERAGE
• The Powertrain coverage period is 60 months or 60,000
miles, whichever comes first.
• This warranty covers any repairs needed to correct
defects in materials or workmanship.
• Powertrain coverage applies to components listed below,
supplied by Nissan except for those items listed
under the caption “WHAT IS NOT COVERED”.
ENGINE
Cylinder heads and block and all internal parts, rocker
covers and oil pan, valve train and front cover, timing chain
and tensioner, oil pump, water pump and fuel pump, fuel
injectors, intake and exhaust manifolds and supercharger,
flywheel, seals, and gaskets.
TRANSMISSION AND TRANSAXLE
Case and all internal parts, torque converter and converter
housing, automatic transmission control module, transfer
case and all internal parts, seals and gaskets, clutch cover
and housing, and electronic transmission controls.
DRIVETRAIN
Drive shafts, final drive housing and all internal parts,
propeller shafts, universal joints, bearings, seals and gaskets.
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 10-23-2010 at 11:44 AM.
10-23-2010, 09:06 PM
#14
Not even going to bother start an argument with those guys.
1) Do you guys think that i can keep the brake pad and get a new rotor? The pads are have cracks like you see in the pic and some scratches on the center of the pad. It hasn't been long since i bought these.
2) my left side has about .630 in thickness rotor and right side is f++ed. I placed a Centric premium rotor for jjust the right side. Will i able to get away with just one side?They prolly have similar thickness
1) Do you guys think that i can keep the brake pad and get a new rotor? The pads are have cracks like you see in the pic and some scratches on the center of the pad. It hasn't been long since i bought these.
2) my left side has about .630 in thickness rotor and right side is f++ed. I placed a Centric premium rotor for jjust the right side. Will i able to get away with just one side?They prolly have similar thickness
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