Hydraulic Handbrake install
#22
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its not unreasonable at all, this car will still be my daily...i plan on taking all the oem drum/cable setup out.
last night i took some measurements with a string and gathered a parts list of fittings/lines i'll need. I should be getting the lines made today; hopefully hook them up too. bleeding will be fun.
pics will come...
#23
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its not unreasonable at all, this car will still be my daily...i plan on taking all the oem drum/cable setup out.
last night i took some measurements with a string and gathered a parts list of fittings/lines i'll need. I should be getting the lines made today; hopefully hook them up too. bleeding will be fun.
pics will come...
last night i took some measurements with a string and gathered a parts list of fittings/lines i'll need. I should be getting the lines made today; hopefully hook them up too. bleeding will be fun.
pics will come...
your dash will always have 3 lights on.....vdc/slip/abs lights on...
Read my reply's here about hooking the abs back up and what can happen:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ighlight=cross
-J
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- brake lines fabbed
- mount bracket fabbed
- ksport bolted down
- lines ran
- line brackets fabbed and mounted
ran out of light; didnt have time to install the lines and bleed the system; next week.
pics:
mount bracket:
a 1/4" piece of 8x5 aluminum that i found around my dad's house; good to have a father that use to be a commercial shrimper
ss brake lines:
IN -7/16"unf 90* bend with a 90" m12x1 - 6' of line
OUT - 3/8"unf 90* bend with a 90" m12x1 - 7' of line
#27
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Awesome work man!
my only suggestion is to wrap the line where it penetrates through "OEM BRAKE CABLE OUTLET" so it doesn't chaffe or cut into the line there...or any of the ends/corners of the steel strap bracket mounts you made....dont want vibration cutting the line on sharp corners...
here:
looks like the sheet metal can cut into the lines there....maybe tape wrap or cut some thick heater hose and cut a slit down it length wise and wrap it so it doesn't cut into it there.....
maybe its just the angle of view? can tell for sure...but thought i would mention..
-J
my only suggestion is to wrap the line where it penetrates through "OEM BRAKE CABLE OUTLET" so it doesn't chaffe or cut into the line there...or any of the ends/corners of the steel strap bracket mounts you made....dont want vibration cutting the line on sharp corners...
here:
looks like the sheet metal can cut into the lines there....maybe tape wrap or cut some thick heater hose and cut a slit down it length wise and wrap it so it doesn't cut into it there.....
maybe its just the angle of view? can tell for sure...but thought i would mention..
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 11-18-2010 at 11:54 AM.
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***UPDATE***
last update was nov. 18 2010, i've driven the car daily...drove it to houston on nov. 28 for a drift event, drove home, and have been driving and having fun with the car ever since. I'm from new orleans...
***important bleeding proceedure***
since the last update, all i did was bleed the system according to fsm, but before then, i had to unbolt the ksport and flip it right side up so that no air would be trapped in the master when bleeding.
before driving to houston, all i did was secure the lines with some radiator hosing so that they wouldnt rubb n cheff after some time.
also removed all of the oem ebrake parts.
lines, shoes, clips, springs, evvrything!
last update was nov. 18 2010, i've driven the car daily...drove it to houston on nov. 28 for a drift event, drove home, and have been driving and having fun with the car ever since. I'm from new orleans...
***important bleeding proceedure***
since the last update, all i did was bleed the system according to fsm, but before then, i had to unbolt the ksport and flip it right side up so that no air would be trapped in the master when bleeding.
before driving to houston, all i did was secure the lines with some radiator hosing so that they wouldnt rubb n cheff after some time.
also removed all of the oem ebrake parts.
lines, shoes, clips, springs, evvrything!
Last edited by KTran; 01-09-2011 at 06:37 PM.
#32
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Hi Everyone,
I know this is an old thread, but i am wondering if anyone had tried using the existing OEM handbrake cable to pull/push the cylinder from the hydraulic handbrake system.
This will allow the car interior to look stock but have the rear brake lock up by the calipers.
I know this is an old thread, but i am wondering if anyone had tried using the existing OEM handbrake cable to pull/push the cylinder from the hydraulic handbrake system.
This will allow the car interior to look stock but have the rear brake lock up by the calipers.
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Hi Everyone,
I know this is an old thread, but i am wondering if anyone had tried using the existing OEM handbrake cable to pull/push the cylinder from the hydraulic handbrake system.
This will allow the car interior to look stock but have the rear brake lock up by the calipers.
I know this is an old thread, but i am wondering if anyone had tried using the existing OEM handbrake cable to pull/push the cylinder from the hydraulic handbrake system.
This will allow the car interior to look stock but have the rear brake lock up by the calipers.
-J
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How difficult was this install because I plan on doing this only the ghetto way... With a clutch master cylinder from a Honda. Sorry I'm cheap and I've seen it done very cleanly before. And what was done about abs
#35
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^ the set up shown by Ktran can never run the car with ABS again......
grey cannon plug behind the abs module need to be pulled and abs will never function per factory with that set up.
see here where Kevin did the exact same set up and learned that you cant plug the abs back in when you have this mod: read this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ighlight=kevin
-J
grey cannon plug behind the abs module need to be pulled and abs will never function per factory with that set up.
see here where Kevin did the exact same set up and learned that you cant plug the abs back in when you have this mod: read this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ighlight=kevin
-J
#36
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^ the set up shown by Ktran can never run the car with ABS again......
grey cannon plug behind the abs module need to be pulled and abs will never function per factory with that set up.
see here where Kevin did the exact same set up and learned that you cant plug the abs back in when you have this mod: read this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ighlight=kevin
-J
grey cannon plug behind the abs module need to be pulled and abs will never function per factory with that set up.
see here where Kevin did the exact same set up and learned that you cant plug the abs back in when you have this mod: read this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ighlight=kevin
-J
my way is not 100% either but it works, it will not pass xdc or fd rules, but does pass grass roots drift events.
also, with my setup, you can NOT use front brakes while pulling the hydro because the hydro will lock up the front calipers since they share the same brake line route. and once its locked, you'll have to let off the hydro, and tap front brakes to unlock. trying to do that in all one motion while tandem can be a real pain/mistake, but if you're good you can learn how to drift with out front and rear braking at the same time, i had to adapt.
the best and secure way to do it is to just add a separate rear caliper ebrake setup, i think george marstanovic(george on zilvia) and/or pbm(poweredbymax) are in the process of making rear ebrake caliper adapters for 350/370z's.
example:
these are for 240sx/schassis
I have a custom water jetted/machined set of rear separate caliper adapters that utilize stock z33 brembo calipers, got them off of ziptied that will be used correctly on my track/caged drift z.
Last edited by KTran; 06-06-2012 at 10:14 PM.