A few months ago when I was lowering my Z and researching, no one mentioned these for toe correction in the rear. Everyone just talked about toe bolts so I went ahead and got those and hacked away at my Z with a dremel, which was a huge pain in the ***.

I am very skeptical that these work, but if so, I'm going to be upset lol.

http://www.kinetixracing.com/kinetix...tion_arms.aspx

EDIT: I might have answered my own question. It looks like SPL doesn't recommend these for toe adjustment because it messes with the suspension geometry. Hmm..

 

I'd have to guess it would alter the wheel's angle through the travel of the suspension's range giving a different more aggressive toe change as the suspension moves as a byproduct. However, because of the angle it acts on, it seems like an adjustment would create a bind at some point. But enough companies use the design so there has to be something to it.

 

believe it adjusts the caster, used mostly by drifters.

 

Can be used to change basically the bumpsteer, and you really need to know what your doing while setting it up.

 

The rear forward facing radius arms - aka "traction arms" and a ton of other names by aftermarket companies are not the correct way to adjust rear toe on the Z....

yes, adding a turn buckle/adjuster to that point will pitch the knuckle and toe will change along with a wee bit of camber on the rear wheel, but at the same time you will be changing the suspension geometry and creating a bigger thrust angle....the same exact adjustment, (to a point) would have to be done on the other rear wheel so that to eliminate this.....

remember, the basic alignment done is a thrust angle alignment......the lazers pick up the rear wheels and the front is adjusted from there......the average alignment shop will "try their best" and then take the car down from the rack and hand u the keys.....if your good enough to watch and know what their doing you can ensure they do it right and get a print out of your specs and make sure its done correctly.....

and like terrasmack said, yes doing so you can adjust bump steer but you would have to know and measure what exact suspension travel, ie bump travel your looking for - as is a specific road course setup, etc, would be the only real reason u would adjust from there...

generally speaking changing out the oem arm to an rod end style solid arm eliminates the weak compliant bushing........the kinetix u linked still use a bushing, so boo on that....the compliance would lead to rear end changes on launches, etc...

I discuss more in this thread, and i suggest u read my posting on it, i think its not till end of page 2 or 3 but ya..........for the most part thats not the correct toe adjusting point....if ur slammed and daily driving then really none of this matters as your car handles like issh anyway and using these to adjust toe is your preference......as all the slammed z's are just trying to get another month of tires out of buying them...

its late.........meh....i hope that made sense........nite.....

Suspension 101:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html

-J

 

I bought my "toe arms" from JasonZ-Ya. They get their job done, adjusting toes not casters. I recommend his product

 

I think you are referring to the "spring bucket eliminator" toe arm where toe is still adjusted via the correct location as Jason mentioned, but from the arm instead of the bolt.

Whereas OP is referring to the "traction arm" that is a solid oem arm located in the front suspension area of the rear fender well. Some companies like Wicked and Kinetix make replacements for this arm that make it adjustable and they call it a "toe arm" even though it really isnt, or shouldnt be.

 

Well said...exactly....

op is talking about item 23 - "radius rod" arm:


Proper rear toe is adjusted via Item 21:
1. Given oem eccentric toe bolt and oem spring bucket due to running a spring in the spring bucket arm.
2. Given SPC (more adjustment over item 1) toe bolt and oem spring bucket due to running a spring in the spring bucket arm.
3. Given SPL pro mid link (with proper spring installed into it) paired with lock out washers or either item 1 or 2 eccentric bolt. (note: SPL baller product for those with rear oem set up and I highly recommend)
4. Given true coilovers are installed - then an aftermarket spring bucket delete "toe arm" can be purchased and used/paired with lock out washers.

really, those are the only things you can do. Item 3 and 4 are your BEST options hands down paired with lock out washers!

ITEM 22 - is where rear camber is adjusted:
1. Buy an adjustable camber arm - be smart and pair it with lock out washers at the sub frame mount location.


-J