I had to disassemble the hats from the rotors to get them powder coated.
Now I'm ready to assemble them back together.

Do I need to get new hardware (pins + bolts + washers)? Or should I reuse the old hardware?
These are Endless 2-piece floating rotors.

I googled and found people recommend the torque specs to be around 8-10 ft-lbs. Is this a typical specs for any 2-piece floating rotors?

This is the rotor and I marked the pattern to tighten the bolts. Is this the correct way?

 

using the old hardware is ok. as far as the torque specs, I'm not certain what it's supposed to be. check with the manufacturer. I'm sure they know what they torque their bolts and such to.

 

when I cleaned up and re-painted my wilwoods, I just gave them the gutntite on the old hardware and rewired the hardware together. almost 10k on them since them with zero problems

 

I work for Strange Engineering and our two piece rotors for carbon brake kits normally have 7-10 ft-lbs on the retainer bolts which are similar in design. So at first glance it seems within the range but im sure it could slightly vary depending on manufacture. As for the torque pattern I honestly cannot say.

 

The pattern is correct for circular bolt patterns.

 

Ok, re-using the old hardware should be ok, torque to 7-10 ft-lbs, and the bolt pattern is correct.

Now is adding Locktite necessary?

 

I reused the hardware on my car, no problems, but no locktite. I actually used antiseize, then lockwired them.

 

You want to do a first-rate job so of course you use new hardware. I recommend high temperature Loktite.
Low torque (10 pounds) is suitable. Figure 10 x 10 equals 100 pounds. It is not coming apart.
Torque sequence is good.

 

I cannot say if its true for Endless, but on StopTech and brembo kits it is never recommended to re-use the old hardware. On our hardware we only recommend 72 in/lb followed by a wicking loctite (type 290).

I would also be wary of having powder-coat on the hat rotor interface area as that may limit float or actually melt, filling the mounting holes and binding up the rotor...just something to think about.

 

This is the bolt, washer and pin. Right now, I will re-use the old pins, but planning to get new bolts since getting the hardware kit from Endless will be eternity.

I believe these are steel bolts. So my question is, can I replace these bolts with the stainless steel ones?

bolt: M5x20 (.80 pitch)

5mm-0.80 SOCKET HEAD ALLEN BOLT (STAINLESS)
Product ID: 70476
Description: SOCKET HEAD ALLEN BOLT,(A2-70 STAINLESS STEEL)

My concern is that if these SS bolts are equal replacement of the old steel bolts regarding heat, strength, etc.

http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=70476


Thanks for all the help so far.

 

kuhan... let's slow down for a sec. i think the hats came out rough.

are they aluminum or steel? i think they deserved a matched anodized surface.

this shouldn't cost more than $100 per hat and will yield the best end results.

a good coater should be able to match the finish.

the powder coater finish is ridiculously rough. i am totally OCD so feel free to ignore this.

 

I did some research and found stainless steel are weaker in strength compare to other steel. Luckily, I found a website McMaster.com that sells all types of bolts, nuts, etc.
I was able to order the Metric Class 12.9 Zinc-Coated Alloy Steel bolts and washers.

Here are the links for anyone who needs them

http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=n...63a388/=bbg2wa
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91100a140/=bbg2i4

 

good reference man... at some point my gt-r hardware is gonna have to go.

 

Can't wait to see those sexy Brembo's!

 

I see a serious problem. You must remove the powder coating underneath the bolt head or the nut on the hat. You must also remove the powder coating on the hat surface where the hat touches the rotor. If the hat gets to over 400F degrees (which it will) the powder coating will soften and you will lose the torque on the fasteners.

I'm not joking, I've seen it happen to brake hats and multi-piece wheels.

 

I agree 100%. Run it on a lathe to remove the coat over the contact surface. I believe for this application where surface friction matters, anodizing is the best option.

 

Damn! I didn't know powder coating was just bad idea.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll get a dremel and clean those areas up.

Edit: The powder coater told me that coat should hold up to 800 degf. I believe under normal braking, the rotor temp probably won't exceed that. But I will clean surface where the hats contact with the rotors and under bolt heads for better embedding. Thanks.

 

The powder coater is referring to appearance when he says the coating will hold up to 800F. The coating will soften and "flow" under pressure well below 800F.

 

especially when you're bringing your 2800lb car to a stop.

i really do think they should be stripped and anodized.

chalk it up to lessons learned. very interesting input from beta... thanks dude.

 

100% correct. Powder coating is not suitable for brake hats.

And disc assembly hardware should not be re-used due to heat cycling. It is damn near impossible to get accurate torque on used, self-locking fasteners. Sure, the torque wrench may be accurate, but the torque it is reading is false.

Chris