Re-assembling 2-piece rotor question.
#21
Not sure if I want to get the hats anodized since the fronts are aluminum and the rears are steel.
As far as the hardware, I am getting new steel washers and allen socket bolts. But I will use the pins since I don't even know where to get them. Unless someone can help me out.
My plan is to clean the surface between the rotors and hats and around the bolts. Also I will torque all the bolts to 10 ft-lbs and use wicking Loctite (type 290).
And after a 100 miles, I will re-torque all the bolts again.
If everything fails, I have no choice to buy new rotors and hats.
Thanks for all the help so far.
As far as the hardware, I am getting new steel washers and allen socket bolts. But I will use the pins since I don't even know where to get them. Unless someone can help me out.
My plan is to clean the surface between the rotors and hats and around the bolts. Also I will torque all the bolts to 10 ft-lbs and use wicking Loctite (type 290).
And after a 100 miles, I will re-torque all the bolts again.
If everything fails, I have no choice to buy new rotors and hats.
Thanks for all the help so far.
#22
Registered User
iTrader: (21)
Trust me. Strip and anodize the Fronts.
Take the rear hat to a machine shop and get a quote
For aluminum replacements.
Do this right the first time and you'll never worry.
Every other path will not yield optimal results.
Every other path also costs more in the long run.
This coming from one of the few with legit experience
In a high end debacle.
Take the rear hat to a machine shop and get a quote
For aluminum replacements.
Do this right the first time and you'll never worry.
Every other path will not yield optimal results.
Every other path also costs more in the long run.
This coming from one of the few with legit experience
In a high end debacle.
#24
Not sure if I want to get the hats anodized since the fronts are aluminum and the rears are steel.
As far as the hardware, I am getting new steel washers and allen socket bolts. But I will use the pins since I don't even know where to get them. Unless someone can help me out.
My plan is to clean the surface between the rotors and hats and around the bolts. Also I will torque all the bolts to 10 ft-lbs and use wicking Loctite (type 290).
And after a 100 miles, I will re-torque all the bolts again.
If everything fails, I have no choice to buy new rotors and hats.
Thanks for all the help so far.
As far as the hardware, I am getting new steel washers and allen socket bolts. But I will use the pins since I don't even know where to get them. Unless someone can help me out.
My plan is to clean the surface between the rotors and hats and around the bolts. Also I will torque all the bolts to 10 ft-lbs and use wicking Loctite (type 290).
And after a 100 miles, I will re-torque all the bolts again.
If everything fails, I have no choice to buy new rotors and hats.
Thanks for all the help so far.
And, it is best to use reasonably high strength steel bolts on brake hats, not the lower strength and hardness stainless fasteners.
Chris
Last edited by Chris_B; 03-08-2011 at 03:40 PM.
#26
If you use Loctite 290, you will not be re-torquing them -- nor would you want to. Get it right the first time and then leave them alone. If you over-torque them, they will break the first time they see real heat. Aluminum will expand more than steel with temperature, which will overstretch the bolts. This can be a big problem, especially with the fully threaded screws in that picture you posted.
And, it is best to use reasonably high strength steel bolts on brake hats, not the lower strength and hardness stainless fasteners.
Chris
And, it is best to use reasonably high strength steel bolts on brake hats, not the lower strength and hardness stainless fasteners.
Chris
I'll play safe and torque them to 8 ft-lbs. And then at 100 miles or so, I'll check the bolts again.
But for that price, I might as well get new hats.
I already requested a quote for new rotors and hats to Z1 Performance.
I also bought this Craftsman torque wrench today at local Sears store.
Torque range: 25-250 in-lbs.
Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
Last edited by Kuhan; 03-08-2011 at 03:58 PM.
#27
#28
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx
Last edited by Kuhan; 03-08-2011 at 05:01 PM.
#29
Recommended Torque (N*m)
Diameter(mm) Class 8.8 Class 10.9 Class 12.9
5 --------------7 ---------- 9 -------------11?
6 --------------12----------16
8---------------30 -------- 40
10 -------------55 ---------75
12 -------------100---------135
14 -------------160---------215
16 -------------245---------335
20 -------------480---------650
9-11 N-M => 80 - 100 in-lbs => 6 - 8 ft-lbs.
So torquing these class 12.9 zinc-plated alloy steel bolts to 8 ft-lbs should work.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ed-Torque.aspx
Diameter(mm) Class 8.8 Class 10.9 Class 12.9
5 --------------7 ---------- 9 -------------11?
6 --------------12----------16
8---------------30 -------- 40
10 -------------55 ---------75
12 -------------100---------135
14 -------------160---------215
16 -------------245---------335
20 -------------480---------650
9-11 N-M => 80 - 100 in-lbs => 6 - 8 ft-lbs.
So torquing these class 12.9 zinc-plated alloy steel bolts to 8 ft-lbs should work.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ed-Torque.aspx
Last edited by Kuhan; 03-08-2011 at 05:19 PM.
#30
I thought class 12.9 steel has higher strength? That's why I bought class 12.9 instead of class 8.8 or 10.9.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx
Chris
#31
Recommended Torque (N*m)
Diameter(mm) Class 8.8 Class 10.9 Class 12.9
5 7 9 11?
6 12 16
8 30 40
10 55 75
12 100 135
14 160 215
16 245 335
20 480 650
9-11 N-M => 80 - 100 in-lbs => 6 - 8 ft-lbs.
So torquing these class 12.9 zinc-plated alloy steel bolts to 8 ft-lbs should work.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ed-Torque.aspx
Diameter(mm) Class 8.8 Class 10.9 Class 12.9
5 7 9 11?
6 12 16
8 30 40
10 55 75
12 100 135
14 160 215
16 245 335
20 480 650
9-11 N-M => 80 - 100 in-lbs => 6 - 8 ft-lbs.
So torquing these class 12.9 zinc-plated alloy steel bolts to 8 ft-lbs should work.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ed-Torque.aspx
Chris
#33
Chris
#36
I finally got a reply from Endless Usa.
Conversion:
1.3KGF-M = 12.75 N-m = 113 in-lbs = 9.4 ft-lbs
So if I torque each bolt to 113 in-lbs, then what does this mean?
The torque specs for the rotor bobbins is:
-M5 Bolts: 1.3KGF-M
-M6 Bolts: 1.5KGF-M
-M8 Bolts: 3.2KGF-M
-M5 Bolts: 1.3KGF-M
-M6 Bolts: 1.5KGF-M
-M8 Bolts: 3.2KGF-M
1.3KGF-M = 12.75 N-m = 113 in-lbs = 9.4 ft-lbs
When installing, the floating bolts and pins should be slightly loose as this is their purpose. The float range should be 0.3mm to 0.5mm.
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