final product
now the never ending fine tuning with height compression, extension adjustments ehe

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Impressive! congrats on following through. gotta feel nice.

 

excellent job, i wish i can make my own parts the way I want them. Btw what is the clunking noise, i have the same exact problem too on the rear right side...I just can't figure it out.

 

I had this problem, and it turned out to be the upper shock mount plate. Chances are it's loose. Take an impact wrench to the nut on top for a second and it should stop.

But to the OP,

This is great. I've been looking into different Coilover setups. Especially if it's completely customizable.

 

exactly! the top mounting plate was loose.. ive been playing around with a few different top mount setups so..well see
but yes having all the adjustments is great and like i said i was really suprised by just how much of a dampenin or extension difference they truly make. every position is definetely noticable.

 

Yeah major props for building your suspension. I've been paying attention to a new company, DGR Suspension. I spoke to the guy who started the company and He comes from the Miata world. He'll custom build you a setup to the specs you want.

But anyways, I look forward to seeing more testing of your setup.

 

well, Strange Engineering has built many custom products including suspension parts for customers but i was trying to say our exact intention with my particular project wasn't to mass produce these. i'm sure if someone was interested enough that something could be worked out.

 

Well I'll be looking into when my current coils decide to go.

Do you plan on tracking your car with this setup?

 

I do plan on attending a few local track events.
Our coilovers have primarily been used in drag racing applications, but given the range of adjustments they should perform very well in autocrosses and such long as the driver can keep up

 

So, when you made these, did you have a specific application in mind (ex. drag)?

 

yeah, i've been more focused on auto crossing and thats what the fine tuning will be intended for... for example with drag racing, shocks in the front are set softer to allow for weight transfer to the rear in order to "plant" the tires, but for auto crossing i believe they should be set equal in front and rear to decrease overall body roll...again this is to my understanding and i may be wrong on a few things here but its still a learning process so ... correct me if im wrong...

 

awesome

 

Equal would be a lot stiffer front spring, probably 650 to 675 range. If i were to crunh numbers i believe your at 2.01hz in the rear and probably 1.7hz up front. That should work well for autocrossing.

 

grabbed a cool photo from our company's facebook page showing
the common application of the same shocks
Holden Torana

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for the sake of keeping all my information in one thread I'd like to update this with the most recent project.
My OEM clutch started going so i decided to replace it with a JWT clutch and flywheel. The only advise I have if anyone plans to do this is to rent a blind hole puller set from Autozone for free to remove the pilot bushing. Also, after speaking with JWT i decided not to use the roller bearing provided because it requires perfect mating of the trans and engine meaning the output shaft of the trans has to be perfectly aligned when reinstalling or else the roller bearing more than likely will get damaged and it will fail prematurely (this is at advise of the JWT engineers) so i decided to reuse the bronze standard bushing. The roller bearings also are designated for which orientation to install. The thicker wall is intended to be pounded on while the thinner wall must face towards the front. Again these are little details I didn't know before so they may help someone in the future. Also, I purchased the wilwood compact cylinder to replace my stock clutch master cylinder. I made a custom mount at work and can provide the print if anyone wants to make it in the future. I also ended up contacting Zspeed for the inlet fittings because i was in a rush and didn't want to spend too much time looking for the fittings elsewhere. Throughout JWT and Zspeed were a great help and I would highly recommend their services and products. ONTO the pics. ALSO MOST HELPFUL AND important was raising the vehicle as high as possible to remove the trans and ensure that the car falling would be my last worry throughout.

 

Did I miss the shock dyno somewhere...

 

I never did get around to it mainly because I'm using custom mounts compared to what we normally put on our dyno. However, I have to remove the suspension soon to install some additional alignment pieces so I'll try my hardest to get the dyno graph even after a year or so of abuse.

 

you mad scientist you.

Great documentation, sweet project.

 

just finished some little meticulous things on the car.
my driver side ball joint had gone bad so i replaced it with an ebay one. however, i ripped the new boot slightly during installation and didn't feel like buying another ball joint so i tried out the energy suspension dust boot covers and it worked out real well also it was very inexpensive. making reference to this page (http://www.energysuspension.com/univ...ust-boots.html) I measured my "B" dimension on the replacement ball joint at 1.7" and the "A" dimension at 0.7" the best fitting boot cover i found was Energy Suspension part # 5.13102 At first the boot didn't quite seat flat but when installed on the vehicle it get slightly compressed by the lower control arm and turned out to be the best fitment i could find.

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