should I change diff/subframe bushings?
#1
should I change diff/subframe bushings?
I have been doing a ton of research on the subject over the past couple weeks but cant find anything very conclusive. theres lots of DIY but not much reviews.
I have an 03 G35 coupe with 54k on it.
I have to change a couole worn front LCA bushings so I bought the energy suspension front and rear bushing sets.
Im debating whether its worth it to do the diff and subframe bushings at the same time. theyre not blown but itd just be for precautionary measures as well as minor response gains. is it worth it? and is there a good chance of them failing soon?
and if I do decide to do it im trying to decide between energy suspension poly or solid aluminum bushings for the diff and subframe.
any help is appreciated. thanks in advance.
I have an 03 G35 coupe with 54k on it.
I have to change a couole worn front LCA bushings so I bought the energy suspension front and rear bushing sets.
Im debating whether its worth it to do the diff and subframe bushings at the same time. theyre not blown but itd just be for precautionary measures as well as minor response gains. is it worth it? and is there a good chance of them failing soon?
and if I do decide to do it im trying to decide between energy suspension poly or solid aluminum bushings for the diff and subframe.
any help is appreciated. thanks in advance.
#3
I would probably pay a shop to change all the bushings since I dont have a press to take them all out. But what are the chances of diff or subframe bushings failing? I dont abuse the car at all really. maybe push it once a month.
no major power mods. lwt popcharger with polished ztube, stillen HFC, greddy EVo TT exhaust, polished inner plenum, accessport, VB mod, trans cooler
suspension: HKS RS coils, stillen sways, ichiba front A arms, spc rear camber arms and toe bolts, upgraded to brembos with SS lines and drilled rotors, richie front STB
no major power mods. lwt popcharger with polished ztube, stillen HFC, greddy EVo TT exhaust, polished inner plenum, accessport, VB mod, trans cooler
suspension: HKS RS coils, stillen sways, ichiba front A arms, spc rear camber arms and toe bolts, upgraded to brembos with SS lines and drilled rotors, richie front STB
#4
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the usual way to do the rear diff bushing is to DROP the subframe out, so doing those bushings will add little cost.
IF you already have poly, use em. SOlid is cool ( i have em) but it does add some whine... but comapred to solid eng and trans bushings... its NOTHING.
Id do it all day long bro. Expect 6-7 hours labor. You will never do it again tho even if theres a nuclear holocaust.
IF you already have poly, use em. SOlid is cool ( i have em) but it does add some whine... but comapred to solid eng and trans bushings... its NOTHING.
Id do it all day long bro. Expect 6-7 hours labor. You will never do it again tho even if theres a nuclear holocaust.
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I had to replace my control arm bushings, and compression rod bushings for the front(will do sub-frame later). I went stock for the compression rod and whiteline for the whole LCA and it I can tell you that the urethane are very nice. I don't fully remember how well sedan did with the stock but with this I feel the steering is more stable even on rough roads.
#7
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Solid is way better than poly. The solids will never need replacement, either. Keep in mind that you'll get slightly more vibration inside the car, but it's well worth it in my opinion.
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50/50 OP.. Vivids correct, but it is more harsh, prepare for new squeaks and rattles along w the increasing in humming ( and not the good kind ha).
Diff bushings and rear subframe? SOlid is beuno.
Front end and steering stuff? meh.. i wouldnt if you drive the car for enjoyment daily..
youre not screwed w poly at all either.. its a huge upgrade from the rubber oem, still has a little isolation to it too.. solid is metal to metal period.
GREAT for the diff bushings.. decent for the rear due to axle hop, high stress etc... but the front end stuff is what you have your hands on daily.. ( steering wheel) id stay softer up front unles you are serious about this build as a racer. Its far more expenseive to go solid up front.
this is my experience and is what is in my car. Solid in back, poly up front. thats all i can attest to.
Diff bushings and rear subframe? SOlid is beuno.
Front end and steering stuff? meh.. i wouldnt if you drive the car for enjoyment daily..
youre not screwed w poly at all either.. its a huge upgrade from the rubber oem, still has a little isolation to it too.. solid is metal to metal period.
GREAT for the diff bushings.. decent for the rear due to axle hop, high stress etc... but the front end stuff is what you have your hands on daily.. ( steering wheel) id stay softer up front unles you are serious about this build as a racer. Its far more expenseive to go solid up front.
this is my experience and is what is in my car. Solid in back, poly up front. thats all i can attest to.
#9
sounds good.
im probably going to get the sikky raised subframe bushings and either energy poly or sikky solid diff bushings.
I will stay poly up front and poly on the rear arms.
thanks for all the advice.
I read in a thread that poly iss not a good material for the rear diff bushing. is this true?
im probably going to get the sikky raised subframe bushings and either energy poly or sikky solid diff bushings.
I will stay poly up front and poly on the rear arms.
thanks for all the advice.
I read in a thread that poly iss not a good material for the rear diff bushing. is this true?
Last edited by jdm-v35; 07-29-2011 at 04:17 PM.
#11
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I have the same set up, great , just not a daily driver thing to do
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See here:
https://my350z.com/forum/9781609-post16.html
and
https://my350z.com/forum/8293651-post24.html
-J
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