Big Brake upgrade AP Racing vs Brembo R35
#21
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Just got back from my mechanic. They are suggesting the following:
1) keep the wilwood 6 Piston, but move it to the rear wheels (they say that the take full responsibility into doing that)
2) buy a used set of Brembo Gran Turismo (GT) 8 Piston Calipers that a customer is selling (out of a 911 turbo Gemballa)
3) buy a new set of 380mm disks (etc) for the Calipers.
Al this will cost me just a bit more that a set of new AP Front kit..! That is labour included !!!!!!
ps. they will take care of the ABS balance of the car.
1) keep the wilwood 6 Piston, but move it to the rear wheels (they say that the take full responsibility into doing that)
2) buy a used set of Brembo Gran Turismo (GT) 8 Piston Calipers that a customer is selling (out of a 911 turbo Gemballa)
3) buy a new set of 380mm disks (etc) for the Calipers.
Al this will cost me just a bit more that a set of new AP Front kit..! That is labour included !!!!!!
ps. they will take care of the ABS balance of the car.
#22
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As for the rotors, yes I will need to custom-fit them.
After all, it isn't something never done before...
black07nismo did it (Brembo 6 pot)
lgear080 did it (GTR brakes)
#23
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this setup is for much better - stronger braking.
and "this guy" knows how to brake properly.
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#26
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I would just do the pad swap to Poly B or Poly E
Poly B was great for me on the racetrack but i did start to outgrow them, Poly E is freaking awsome.
Poly B was great for me on the racetrack but i did start to outgrow them, Poly E is freaking awsome.
#27
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For the record I've been speaking to Angelo for a few days.
I've suggested buying a full/complete f/r kit - i.e. stoptech
if he can't justify the expense of... let's say a gt-r r35 kit.
What I did was definitely one-off and likely won't be done
again. As I've promised in the past I will produce a video
demonstrating the brute braking force my car has. This is
forthcoming shortly.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about the setup is that
in roughly 5,000m of use there is virtually no wear on pads
or rotors.
I am willing to sell the kit as a whole, but the pricepoint is
just ridiculous (essentially $7k shipped) so I've never created
a thread - though I have responded to a few inquiries.
I've suggested buying a full/complete f/r kit - i.e. stoptech
if he can't justify the expense of... let's say a gt-r r35 kit.
What I did was definitely one-off and likely won't be done
again. As I've promised in the past I will produce a video
demonstrating the brute braking force my car has. This is
forthcoming shortly.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about the setup is that
in roughly 5,000m of use there is virtually no wear on pads
or rotors.
I am willing to sell the kit as a whole, but the pricepoint is
just ridiculous (essentially $7k shipped) so I've never created
a thread - though I have responded to a few inquiries.
#28
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For the record I've been speaking to Angelo for a few days.
I've suggested buying a full/complete f/r kit - i.e. stoptech
if he can't justify the expense of... let's say a gt-r r35 kit.
What I did was definitely one-off and likely won't be done
again. As I've promised in the past I will produce a video
demonstrating the brute braking force my car has. This is
forthcoming shortly.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about the setup is that
in roughly 5,000m of use there is virtually no wear on pads
or rotors.
I am willing to sell the kit as a whole, but the pricepoint is
just ridiculous (essentially $7k shipped) so I've never created
a thread - though I have responded to a few inquiries.
I've suggested buying a full/complete f/r kit - i.e. stoptech
if he can't justify the expense of... let's say a gt-r r35 kit.
What I did was definitely one-off and likely won't be done
again. As I've promised in the past I will produce a video
demonstrating the brute braking force my car has. This is
forthcoming shortly.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about the setup is that
in roughly 5,000m of use there is virtually no wear on pads
or rotors.
I am willing to sell the kit as a whole, but the pricepoint is
just ridiculous (essentially $7k shipped) so I've never created
a thread - though I have responded to a few inquiries.
#29
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Just got back from my mechanic. They are suggesting the following:
1) keep the wilwood 6 Piston, but move it to the rear wheels (they say that the take full responsibility into doing that)
2) buy a used set of Brembo Gran Turismo (GT) 8 Piston Calipers that a customer is selling (out of a 911 turbo Gemballa)
3) buy a new set of 380mm disks (etc) for the Calipers.
Al this will cost me just a bit more that a set of new AP Front kit..! That is labour included !!!!!!
ps. they will take care of the ABS balance of the car.
1) keep the wilwood 6 Piston, but move it to the rear wheels (they say that the take full responsibility into doing that)
2) buy a used set of Brembo Gran Turismo (GT) 8 Piston Calipers that a customer is selling (out of a 911 turbo Gemballa)
3) buy a new set of 380mm disks (etc) for the Calipers.
Al this will cost me just a bit more that a set of new AP Front kit..! That is labour included !!!!!!
ps. they will take care of the ABS balance of the car.
I hate to wag fingers here but I'd find a new shop.
1) The fact that they'd suggest this leads me to believe they have little knowledge of what they're doing. "Full responsibility"...at your expense I'm sure.
2) Really? How doubly thoughtful of them.
3) And I'm sure they'll be happy to sell them to you.
If ever there was business trying to swap parts at your expense this appears one of them. This overall proposal reeks of them making money off of you being the guinea pig. Which will not only cost you money but problems you don't need.
If you don't wish to make a suggested pad change and move onto another brand, I'm ok with that. But at least do it with a proven product.
Last edited by Todd TCE; 09-17-2011 at 12:50 PM.
#30
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I hate to wag fingers here but I'd find a new shop.
1) The fact that they'd suggest this leads me to believe they have little knowledge of what they're doing. "Full responsibility"...at your expense I'm sure.
2) Really? How doubly thoughtful of them.
3) And I'm sure they'll be happy to sell them to you.
If ever there was business trying to swap parts at your expense this appears one of them. This overall proposal reeks of them making money off of you being the guinea pig. Which will not only cost you money but problems you don't need.
If you don't wish to make a suggested pad change and move onto another brand, I'm ok with that. But at least do it with a proven product.
1) The fact that they'd suggest this leads me to believe they have little knowledge of what they're doing. "Full responsibility"...at your expense I'm sure.
2) Really? How doubly thoughtful of them.
3) And I'm sure they'll be happy to sell them to you.
If ever there was business trying to swap parts at your expense this appears one of them. This overall proposal reeks of them making money off of you being the guinea pig. Which will not only cost you money but problems you don't need.
If you don't wish to make a suggested pad change and move onto another brand, I'm ok with that. But at least do it with a proven product.
Thank you for the interester Todd.
I've been thinking about the brakes all weekend (and all things suggested by my fellow 350Z-forum members) and I can see that, well, you are 100% right...
Since I am always thinking "positive" about people, it first sounded like a good idea.
Now I am sure about following a different path. I'll make the right choise and go for a 350Z appropriate kit (AP or Stoptech - wich one I find at a better price).
#32
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I think you should just buy a 4 piston rear wilwood set and change your pads and fluid. Unless you have money to blow buy the ap bbk. Its what I currently run with carbotech pads, x12 in front and x10in the rears.
#33
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The problem to me is less about brand name and more about pad selection. Moving to a different brand could easily prove a lateral move depending upon pad selection. How the AP kit functions is all math just like any system. With more piston area up front the response might appear greater with more "wow" factor from more piston area. But at the expense of a softer and longer pedal also. A smaller rotor or less piston area caliper only means you need to push harder (responsive feel) to achieve the same result. A more "grippy" pad can boost that response time.