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Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install

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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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Default Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install

Hi Guys -

I installed my Kinetix Upper control arms last night and had a couple of questions since it did not come with any instructions. I have searched but cant find a definite answer on what i should do next as far as adjusting it before taking it to the alignment shop. I have added pictures of what I have so far and wanted to see if I can get some feedback before taking it in.

Basically as you can see in the first photo, There are some threads that go through the arm. Since it came with no instructions I am unsure how far I need to thread it through before stopping? So I just threaded it by hand until I couldnt turn it anymore and installed everything back. I have pictures of the driver side and the passenger side and they are threaded differently it seems. The driver side seems to be threaded in more than the passenger side.

My question is how much should it be threaded or how does it need to go in in general? I am not exactly sure if I should try to thread it all the way or keep it out and use that bolt for adjustment. Any help would be appreciated.

Below is another image (with the white springs) of another guy who had installed his. But he didnt provide any instructions.
Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install-user18621_pic39872_1318090985.jpeg


Out of Car Shot
Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install-photo.jpg

Driver Side
Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install-driver1.jpeg
Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install-driver2.jpeg
Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install-driver3.jpeg

Last edited by Infini7y; Nov 22, 2011 at 09:58 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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Passenger Side
Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install-passenger1.jpeg

Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install-passenger2.jpeg

Kinetix Camber Arm Adjustment? Install-passenger3.jpeg

Last edited by Infini7y; Nov 22, 2011 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:24 AM
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Interesting. What I did on my kintix rear camber arms is make the thread equal (I counted the showing threads) and then took it to the alignment shop and did not have an issue. I don't know a lot about camber adjustment, but common sense tells me that making them even would be a safe bet.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Good info^ In for more knowledge as I bought these this past weekend!
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by OkashiZ
Interesting. What I did on my kintix rear camber arms is make the thread equal (I counted the showing threads) and then took it to the alignment shop and did not have an issue. I don't know a lot about camber adjustment, but common sense tells me that making them even would be a safe bet.

Yea, I didnt actually look at them until i was done to compare but someone mentioned leaving 3 or 4 threads showing on each side could work. Can anyone confirm this? I have an appointment at the alignment shop tomorrow morning so hopefully if that works I can report back here for anyone else needing information

Last edited by Infini7y; Nov 22, 2011 at 12:17 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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Your alignment shop had better know your coming with those arms bc they are quite involved to adjust, relatively.

As far as starting position, just for the drive to the alignment guys, I would screw the balljoint all the way in then back it out 3 full turns. Make sure you tighten down the locknuts as well.

I have a set of kinetix arms as well I'm waiting for them to release the fully covered joint boots before installing.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ian99rt
Your alignment shop had better know your coming with those arms bc they are quite involved to adjust, relatively.

As far as starting position, just for the drive to the alignment guys, I would screw the balljoint all the way in then back it out 3 full turns. Make sure you tighten down the locknuts as well.

I have a set of kinetix arms as well I'm waiting for them to release the fully covered joint boots before installing.

Im Getting ready to order my set, when do they come out with that fully covered joint boots?
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 2fastnc
Im Getting ready to order my set, when do they come out with that fully covered joint boots?
Last time i spoke to them (about 5 weeks ago) they said they expected to have the full covering boots by December.

If somone want to call and ask they were very friendly folks to speak with.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:45 AM
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I'm going with the ping pong ball cover vice dust boots.
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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Just get them even (all the way in, then back out the same number of turns per side) for the drive to the alignment shop. All the way in will give you the most negative camber, and the more you back them out the more positive the camber will be.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by NoQuestionZ
I'm going with the ping pong ball cover vice dust boots.
Kinetix now sells the rod end with the covered dust boots. Just got their new version in today.

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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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Im gonna be putting these in within the next week and i was wondering the same thing.

Also, on the bushing side, there seems to be grease nipple type things, am i supposed to do anything with these when i install them? add lube or something? if so what type. I read lithium based lube, but theres 4 types ranging from thin to thick.

Another question, i heard that these can creak if you torque the bushing ends without the full weight of the car on the wheels. Any truth to this?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Arvin89
Im gonna be putting these in within the next week and i was wondering the same thing.

Also, on the bushing side, there seems to be grease nipple type things, am i supposed to do anything with these when i install them? add lube or something? if so what type. I read lithium based lube, but theres 4 types ranging from thin to thick.

Another question, i heard that these can creak if you torque the bushing ends without the full weight of the car on the wheels. Any truth to this?
Pretty sure that the arms already come prelubed. I didn't prelube mine prior to install and I don't have any issues so far.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:26 AM
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Alright. Any ideas on the creaking? I don't see how I'm supposed to torque the bushings wirh the car down and wheels on.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Arvin89
Alright. Any ideas on the creaking? I don't see how I'm supposed to torque the bushings wirh the car down and wheels on.
Why not jack the car up and take the wheel off?
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel350
Why not jack the car up and take the wheel off?
Someone said that they creak if yiu torque the bushings withought the full wireght of the car on the wheels. I want to know if that is true.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Arvin89
Someone said that they creak if yiu torque the bushings withought the full wireght of the car on the wheels. I want to know if that is true.
I have the OLD original Kinetix front camber arm, and mine creaked because at first I didn't have any lube put on them. Sprayed them with some lube, and the problem went away forever.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 08:55 PM
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Did you had any trouble installing them ? They come with HUGE nut right under the aluminum cone and it doesn't want to enter the heimjoint thread! Did you have the same problem ? Do i need to get rid of this nut and use the old one ? Please help me I'm afraid that the nut will just go off if i roll with it...! Thanks
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MagicTinou
Did you had any trouble installing them ? They come with HUGE nut right under the aluminum cone and it doesn't want to enter the heimjoint thread! Did you have the same problem ? Do i need to get rid of this nut and use the old one ? Please help me I'm afraid that the nut will just go off if i roll with it...! Thanks
Use the nut it came with, Are you using a torque wrench along with a set of pliers to tighten it up?

See below

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Last edited by Diesel350; Jan 10, 2013 at 04:22 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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No i didnt try to torque it with anything. I will use a torque wrench to torque everything at spec, but i didn't want to force anything. When i saw the nut was just entering a few threads i didnt want to break the threads by forcing it to enter....
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