I absolutely cannot decide what coilover or spring/shock combo to get?...
#1
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I absolutely cannot decide what coilover or spring/shock combo to get?...
Hey guys, so I'm somewhat new to the forum. I got my 350z back in September and haven't really modded it yet aside from a small front lip.
So, I'd like to not spend more than $1,500 between coilovers or spring/shock combo and the other necessary things I'll need to get my alignment back within spec.
I'm looking to have a little of everything - although for only $1,500 I'm sure I'll have to sacrifice some aspects of ride quality? I'd like to get about a 1.5" - 2" drop, I'm not looking to absolutely slam the car, just close those fender gaps.
I'd like to improve handling - I'm not going to be tracking it every single day, but every few months they do have auto-x events at the local track and I do enjoy participating in them, so something that can still be somewhat comfortably driven daily.
All suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks!
So, I'd like to not spend more than $1,500 between coilovers or spring/shock combo and the other necessary things I'll need to get my alignment back within spec.
I'm looking to have a little of everything - although for only $1,500 I'm sure I'll have to sacrifice some aspects of ride quality? I'd like to get about a 1.5" - 2" drop, I'm not looking to absolutely slam the car, just close those fender gaps.
I'd like to improve handling - I'm not going to be tracking it every single day, but every few months they do have auto-x events at the local track and I do enjoy participating in them, so something that can still be somewhat comfortably driven daily.
All suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks!
#4
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from my experiences, the z handles best from stock height up to one inch lower. 2 inches might handle worse, it did in my case. I bought used JIC ftl ar2's and could be happier. For performance, I would recommend buying higher end used coilovers with your budget. But, save more and you can get better/new coilovers.
#5
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On a car that sits 3.8 inches off the ground at its lowest point. Dropping 1 inch is pretty much slamming the car. Wheel gap is needed norma, you need suspension travel for proper handling.
#6
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You can go with your cheaper brand coilovers I.E. BC, D2, Ksport,
I got my Ksports over a year ago and have beat the hell out of them with no problems which isn't bad for $750
Godspeed rear camber arms again I've put these to the test with no complaints and they go for $70 on ebay
Stance rear tow arms (bucket deletes) about $250 last I checked
+$100 alignment
And you're looking at a grand total of about 1300-1400 when all is said and done.
FYI I'm rocking about 2 degrees of camber in the front with stock A-arms
#7
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Fixed for you
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#9
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look into a true choice stage 2 (or do they call it phase 2?) setup. if i recall correctly, this should be koni yellows shocks that are revalved + sleeve over kit, and custom springs.
I don't know exact pricing bc I never spoke with True choice, and trying to find info on this setup was like looking for a unicorn when I was shopping. And I ended up finding another very gently used kit at a price I couldn't refuse. That said, I believe pricing should be close to the $1,500 mark, and the True Choice setups have great reviews.
I don't know exact pricing bc I never spoke with True choice, and trying to find info on this setup was like looking for a unicorn when I was shopping. And I ended up finding another very gently used kit at a price I couldn't refuse. That said, I believe pricing should be close to the $1,500 mark, and the True Choice setups have great reviews.
#11
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Lowered (lower center of gravity) + Coilovers (reducing body roll) = yes (in ideal conditions )
You can go with your cheaper brand coilovers I.E. BC, D2, Ksport,
I got my Ksports over a year ago and have beat the hell out of them with no problems which isn't bad for $750
Godspeed rear camber arms again I've put these to the test with no complaints and they go for $70 on ebay
Stance rear tow arms (bucket deletes) about $250 last I checked
+$100 alignment
And you're looking at a grand total of about 1300-1400 when all is said and done.
FYI I'm rocking about 2 degrees of camber in the front with stock A-arms
You can go with your cheaper brand coilovers I.E. BC, D2, Ksport,
I got my Ksports over a year ago and have beat the hell out of them with no problems which isn't bad for $750
Godspeed rear camber arms again I've put these to the test with no complaints and they go for $70 on ebay
Stance rear tow arms (bucket deletes) about $250 last I checked
+$100 alignment
And you're looking at a grand total of about 1300-1400 when all is said and done.
FYI I'm rocking about 2 degrees of camber in the front with stock A-arms
#12
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I just bought some Gr+ true style recently and so far they are very nice. I don't track my car or anything but on normal roads they ride great, I've got them paired up with ichiba camber arms and custom toe arms made by a member on here. They go pretty low as well. I got the coilovers with helper springs shipped to my front door for 1299$.
#13
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This was a reccondation from 03threefiftyz
-Buy KONI yellows
After that:
Front sleeves (truechoice)
-Rear spring perches
-Springs from summit (Eibach)
-Front upper strut mounts ~$100
I think KONI phase II are around your price range too.
-Buy KONI yellows
After that:
Front sleeves (truechoice)
-Rear spring perches
-Springs from summit (Eibach)
-Front upper strut mounts ~$100
I think KONI phase II are around your price range too.
#14
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These posts come up every couple days, and you end up with the same replies, often by the same people, sometimes by different people.
Spend your time researching, read the actual reviews people have posted. It will take you time, but there is a TON of good information out there, you just gotta put some time in. No one is going to, or can, spoon feed you an answer because there are too many variables. All you're going to get in a thread like this is a totally random list of parts/names from every conceivable price point. Not everyone who buys or installs a coilover is equipped to actually review one. For many people, it's the first car they have had a coilover on, for others, they may have bought the car used and at 80k, 90k, or 100k their stock stuff was so shot that a set of SensaTracks might have made the car feel like the Porsche they like to think the car is. Skip the internet high fives of how their car 'handles on rails', or things like 'they are great' with their $600, $800 or $1000 coilovers. Really tells you nothing when you think about it. $1500 is not a small amount of money and you have the opportunity to get it right and actual derive a benefit from what you put in, or get it wrong, and then be like most everyone else who is convinced they made things better simply because they changed a part.
Spend your time researching, read the actual reviews people have posted. It will take you time, but there is a TON of good information out there, you just gotta put some time in. No one is going to, or can, spoon feed you an answer because there are too many variables. All you're going to get in a thread like this is a totally random list of parts/names from every conceivable price point. Not everyone who buys or installs a coilover is equipped to actually review one. For many people, it's the first car they have had a coilover on, for others, they may have bought the car used and at 80k, 90k, or 100k their stock stuff was so shot that a set of SensaTracks might have made the car feel like the Porsche they like to think the car is. Skip the internet high fives of how their car 'handles on rails', or things like 'they are great' with their $600, $800 or $1000 coilovers. Really tells you nothing when you think about it. $1500 is not a small amount of money and you have the opportunity to get it right and actual derive a benefit from what you put in, or get it wrong, and then be like most everyone else who is convinced they made things better simply because they changed a part.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 02-22-2012 at 09:00 AM.
#16
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These posts come up every couple days, and you end up with the same replies, often by the same people, sometimes by different people.
Spend your time researching, read the actual reviews people have posted. It will take you time, but there is a TON of good information out there, you just gotta put some time in. No one is going to, or can, spoon feed you an answer because there are too many variables. All you're going to get in a thread like this is a totally random list of parts/names from every conceivable price point. Not everyone who buys or installs a coilover is equipped to actually review one. For many people, it's the first car they have had a coilover on, for others, they may have bought the car used and at 80k, 90k, or 100k their stock stuff was so shot that a set of SensaTracks might have made the car feel like the Porsche they like to think the car is. Skip the internet high fives of how their car 'handles on rails', or things like 'they are great' with their $600, $800 or $1000 coilovers. Really tells you nothing when you think about it. $1500 is not a small amount of money and you have the opportunity to get it right and actual derive a benefit from what you put in, or get it wrong, and then be like most everyone else who is convinced they made things better simply because they changed a part.
Spend your time researching, read the actual reviews people have posted. It will take you time, but there is a TON of good information out there, you just gotta put some time in. No one is going to, or can, spoon feed you an answer because there are too many variables. All you're going to get in a thread like this is a totally random list of parts/names from every conceivable price point. Not everyone who buys or installs a coilover is equipped to actually review one. For many people, it's the first car they have had a coilover on, for others, they may have bought the car used and at 80k, 90k, or 100k their stock stuff was so shot that a set of SensaTracks might have made the car feel like the Porsche they like to think the car is. Skip the internet high fives of how their car 'handles on rails', or things like 'they are great' with their $600, $800 or $1000 coilovers. Really tells you nothing when you think about it. $1500 is not a small amount of money and you have the opportunity to get it right and actual derive a benefit from what you put in, or get it wrong, and then be like most everyone else who is convinced they made things better simply because they changed a part.
#17
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General advice for OP and others:
If all you care about is how low your car is and your budget is around $1000 go with Stance coilovers or something similar.
If you care about handling then generally stick to the coilovers that cost around $2k or more..if your budget is $1500 then buy a used set of $2k coilovers or a discontinued model.
If you care about handling but your budget is $1000 or below then stick to a upgraded shock/spring setup.
If all you care about is how low your car is and your budget is around $1000 go with Stance coilovers or something similar.
If you care about handling then generally stick to the coilovers that cost around $2k or more..if your budget is $1500 then buy a used set of $2k coilovers or a discontinued model.
If you care about handling but your budget is $1000 or below then stick to a upgraded shock/spring setup.
#19
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Hey guys, so I'm somewhat new to the forum. I got my 350z back in September and haven't really modded it yet aside from a small front lip.
So, I'd like to not spend more than $1,500 between coilovers or spring/shock combo and the other necessary things I'll need to get my alignment back within spec.
I'm looking to have a little of everything - although for only $1,500 I'm sure I'll have to sacrifice some aspects of ride quality? I'd like to get about a 1.5" - 2" drop, I'm not looking to absolutely slam the car, just close those fender gaps.
I'd like to improve handling - I'm not going to be tracking it every single day, but every few months they do have auto-x events at the local track and I do enjoy participating in them, so something that can still be somewhat comfortably driven daily.
All suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks!
So, I'd like to not spend more than $1,500 between coilovers or spring/shock combo and the other necessary things I'll need to get my alignment back within spec.
I'm looking to have a little of everything - although for only $1,500 I'm sure I'll have to sacrifice some aspects of ride quality? I'd like to get about a 1.5" - 2" drop, I'm not looking to absolutely slam the car, just close those fender gaps.
I'd like to improve handling - I'm not going to be tracking it every single day, but every few months they do have auto-x events at the local track and I do enjoy participating in them, so something that can still be somewhat comfortably driven daily.
All suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks!
1.5" to 2" drop?
IMO I would recommend oem to -1.2". You'll be amazed on how many times you scrap and bang the underside of the car as you get closer to the 1" drop.
This is what I would recommend
Tokico DSK-512 shock and spring kit
Spring rates 375/375 (all linear) Drop 1"/1.5" $719
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PR...z11b01/23-3998
Hotchkis Sway bars $374
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=1345
Eibach rear camber arms with elongated toe cam bolts $155
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=2890
TOTAL $1248 (not including shipping)
Or
Eibach Pro-S coilover $1225
Direct copy of Kw Variant 1 coilover twin tube constrution, reuses oem upper shock mounts
Spring rates Front 485lbs to 525Lbs Rear: 240Lbs to 548Lbs (progressive springs)
Min and Max ride height Front: -.8”/-1.5” Rear: -.8”/-1.5”
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=3265
Eibach rear camber arms with elongated toe cam bolts $155
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=2890
TOTAL $1380
I would only bother with front camber correction unless the numbers AFTER your alignment are so bad that you can justify spending $400-$600 for front correction. Just remember to use the oem factory front toe adjustment for toe in.
#20
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1.5" to 2" drop?
IMO I would recommend oem to -1.2". You'll be amazed on how many times you scrap and bang the underside of the car as you get closer to the 1" drop.
This is what I would recommend
Tokico DSK-512 shock and spring kit
Spring rates 375/375 (all linear) Drop 1"/1.5" $719
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PR...z11b01/23-3998
Hotchkis Sway bars $374
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=1345
Eibach rear camber arms with elongated toe cam bolts $155
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=2890
TOTAL $1248 (not including shipping)
Or
Eibach Pro-S coilover $1225
Direct copy of Kw Variant 1 coilover twin tube constrution, reuses oem upper shock mounts
Spring rates Front 485lbs to 525Lbs Rear: 240Lbs to 548Lbs (progressive springs)
Min and Max ride height Front: -.8”/-1.5” Rear: -.8”/-1.5”
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=3265
Eibach rear camber arms with elongated toe cam bolts $155
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=2890
TOTAL $1380
I would only bother with front camber correction unless the numbers AFTER your alignment are so bad that you can justify spending $400-$600 for front correction. Just remember to use the oem factory front toe adjustment for toe in.
IMO I would recommend oem to -1.2". You'll be amazed on how many times you scrap and bang the underside of the car as you get closer to the 1" drop.
This is what I would recommend
Tokico DSK-512 shock and spring kit
Spring rates 375/375 (all linear) Drop 1"/1.5" $719
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PR...z11b01/23-3998
Hotchkis Sway bars $374
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=1345
Eibach rear camber arms with elongated toe cam bolts $155
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=2890
TOTAL $1248 (not including shipping)
Or
Eibach Pro-S coilover $1225
Direct copy of Kw Variant 1 coilover twin tube constrution, reuses oem upper shock mounts
Spring rates Front 485lbs to 525Lbs Rear: 240Lbs to 548Lbs (progressive springs)
Min and Max ride height Front: -.8”/-1.5” Rear: -.8”/-1.5”
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=3265
Eibach rear camber arms with elongated toe cam bolts $155
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=2890
TOTAL $1380
I would only bother with front camber correction unless the numbers AFTER your alignment are so bad that you can justify spending $400-$600 for front correction. Just remember to use the oem factory front toe adjustment for toe in.
Personally, I run Koni Yellows on revised springs. The setup performs and rides better than the Megan springs the previous owner had installed.