I am in the middle of installing BC coilovers on my G35 and noticed when the car was really low, you could not access the SPC A-arm camber/caster adjusting nut on top. So what's up with it? There was no problem when I had a ~2" drop on springs.

Also, how much "preload" should the BC coilover front springs have?


Aaron

 

Check the DIY forum...
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/
.. there are several threads there related to SPC products.

 

Actually, I could not find the information I was looking for.

 

The alignment shop can take care of all of this no matter how low it is I would think. Unless u have an alignment machine. U can't adjust camber / toe etc. anyways correct ? Only can eye it as much as possible which will still be off.

 

Need an alignment shop where the lift can be independent of the suspension travel. That sounded wrong. Let me explain with picture.



With the equipment underneath the wheels, the lift can load and unload the suspension obviously. In order to access the SPC front camber adjustment nut, etc, you have to take off the wheel, loosen the top nut, adjust it, retightent, put the wheel back, and load the suspension again. Adjust accordingly to your camber desires/required to clear the fender.

That's the easiest way to do it. People say you don't need to take off the wheel sometimes, but if you're low enough on coils or whatever, there isn't enough "droop" in the coil under no load to get enough room to loosen/tighten the adjustment nut with a wrench. You get the idea...

It doesn't work well or at all when the entire car is on the lift, and it raises the car with suspension load. You need a way to lift it without the wheels and suspension un-loaded. Blah. Yea...

 

Exactly...I know what you are talking about where the alignment machine lifts the frame up and the suspension is "suspending". This would be the same when I use a floor jack in my garage on the frame under the engine. With the car raised high the suspension still doesn't sag down to access the top camber adjustment nut.

I'm surprised I have not seen a thread about this. What is everyone doing about this??? There are slammed Z/G and everyone has camber kits.

Seems like a 1.75" drop allows for access to the nut, where anything over 2" does not. Maybe I'll ditch these BC coilovers and stick with my regular shocks/lowering spring.

 

I have to remove my tire everytime. Its been a real PITA while getting my initial adjustments in.

 

Bump for better access

 

Bump. I literally have to unbolt the top of my coilover and unbolt my endlink and drop it all down to access the top adjuster nut. I have stance gr+ coliovers. Getting ready to sell these arms...

 

All you have to do is set your shock lenght properly , very simple.

 

^^^are you slammed because I know exatly what hes talking about. I have to unbolt the bottom on strut and then barely fit the wrench.

 

No I'm not even slammed, tire is right at the fender with oem rays. How will setting the shock hight let me reAch it without messing with ride hight?

 

I thought the best way for these would be to get the initial reading from the alignment machine then add or remove spacer as necessary. The instructions have the camber increments per spacer. All you need is the current camber level then you can remove the spacers later by lifting the car so the wheel hangs later off of the machine.

 

You probably have a lot of unusable up travel and little down travel. Convert your unused up travel into down travel , and now you can get to the adjuster.

 

I'm not getting how to do this without messing with pre load or ride height.

 

Everything has to be reset

 

Please explain or elaborate!!! How do you convert up travel into down travel?

 

Thank you ^

 

By setting your shock length.

 

Am I missing something? The shock length will raise or lower you car...when the car is low you cannot access the camber nut.....