Alignment help, is the good?
After I had my suspension done (by a shop later proved to be less than ethical) I paid a good amount for a "performance corner balance" bla bla alignment.
I have since had it reset to those specs everytime I have had it aligned.
I am going to have the alignment done within the week and thought I should make sure these specs are ok.

Thanks
I have since had it reset to those specs everytime I have had it aligned.
I am going to have the alignment done within the week and thought I should make sure these specs are ok.

Thanks
Last edited by e30cabrio; Jul 4, 2012 at 04:25 PM.
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 7,287
Likes: 189
From: Eastern NC
Looks like everything was brought into spec besides your camber. Front camber wasn't adjusted. Looks like they couldn't quite get your RR into spec but it's not too far off.
Edit: Re-read your question. My statement still applies. The camber isn't that far out of spec.
Edit: Re-read your question. My statement still applies. The camber isn't that far out of spec.
Last edited by AdvanZ33; Jul 4, 2012 at 02:04 PM.
I have the full SPL set up front and back including the ones that replace the spring buckets.
I want the best compromise of handling and proper tire wear for the street which is what I asked for. I have decent tire wear and the car feels ok.
Thanks
I want the best compromise of handling and proper tire wear for the street which is what I asked for. I have decent tire wear and the car feels ok.
Thanks
I would probably run -1.8 front and rear then, and fix the caster on the pass side to 8, run factory toe front and rear. With this setup tires will last pretty long, but you will need to flip them for best life.
This setup is slightly aggressive front, great for areas that you do a lot of canyon driving and will reduce understeer. If you never play on track or canyons , drop to -1.4 front.
This setup is slightly aggressive front, great for areas that you do a lot of canyon driving and will reduce understeer. If you never play on track or canyons , drop to -1.4 front.
I do canyons. I have 30k on my front RE050As, they have been swapped every 3k or so and have minor minimal inside treadwear.
I will have the car set as you suggest, I always thought it odd they had it set differently.
Thanks for your time.
I will have the car set as you suggest, I always thought it odd they had it set differently.
Thanks for your time.
Yes listen to terrasmak....
With full SPL components (ie, u have spl upper arms-ur signature says) There is no reason why you cant get matching numbers L and R hand side!
As its shown on the alignment sheet you posted in post 1, your rear is horrible:
LH REAR is -1.6
RH REAR is -2.4
sure the spec is -1.1 to -2.1, so yes your "only" .3 out of spec on the RH side, BUT your horribly ( 0.8 ) difference between your LH and RH side....
get what im saying???
having a difference of more than .5 from LH to RH side is significant...
more than half a degree off...yuck...
-J
With full SPL components (ie, u have spl upper arms-ur signature says) There is no reason why you cant get matching numbers L and R hand side!
As its shown on the alignment sheet you posted in post 1, your rear is horrible:
LH REAR is -1.6
RH REAR is -2.4
sure the spec is -1.1 to -2.1, so yes your "only" .3 out of spec on the RH side, BUT your horribly ( 0.8 ) difference between your LH and RH side....
get what im saying???
having a difference of more than .5 from LH to RH side is significant...
more than half a degree off...yuck...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jul 5, 2012 at 04:14 AM.
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Last month when I went they were unable to figure out the front arms. Went back yesterday.

They said it was done but looking at the report it shows the caster on the driver side off is it ok?

They said it was done but looking at the report it shows the caster on the driver side off is it ok?
I would bump up the drivers side caster, you would never know the difference unless your driving the car hard.
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