It's oem style

 

It still has an adjustable spring perch on the springs, thats where you adjust height, He doesnt have adjustable shock bodys on the shocks which raise height thru the shock. Only the fronts are like that.

In order for him to adjust his rears he has two rings the top adjust height and the bottom is a locking ring to keep the spring and adjuster ring in place. On the front, you can adjust the shock to move up or down with a ring located at the bottom of the shock near the bolt that connects it to the car. Only true coilovers in the rear adjust from the bottom of the shock and they have to be adjustable.

 

Yeah I felt like I should've with true coils lol

 

LOL Yeah its totally different from OEM spec coilovers

 

I also like the fact that you can get a toe adjustment arm

 

just ordered my wheels today but they wont be going on till i get coilovers.
a friend of mine has the oem and told me to just go with oem while after first i was planning on going true.

so after reading these last couple post true or oem?
ive read threads and searched but i just need that push to get me over the hump and help me decide =)

 

Whichever you prefer, just adjust spring rates based on which you are going with. I personally had oem but went with true for my next set because adjusting the rears was much easier with true.

 

Both are simple to adjust if you know what your doing. Both also get adjusted the same if you know what your doing. Most people just don't know what they're doing.

 

I've adjusted both setups many times, like I said, in my experience the true setups are just simpler and less crowded when adjusting than oem. OEM is completely doable, but when I have the choice and no real downsides to going true vs oem, I'd take true every time.

 

I'm going with true coilovers next time. I feel it's easier plus removes the spring bucket...you know, one less thang *forest Gump voice*

 

Go with whatever style you want, both are very easy to use, Just remember that True setups transfer most of their spring rates to the wheel at a motion ratio of .97 ie. #600 x .97 x .97 = 564 wspr vs OEM which uses a motion ratio of .649 ie #600 x .649 x .649 = 252 wspr.




I think terra was agreeing with you X.et, I think he was saying in general people dont know what they are doing with coilovers when it comes to adjust them

 

Bumping this thread up since I never had a chance to even fix the issue,

In update on information though,
One of my friends said when he worked on the OEM style coilovers, he had the same issue with one side not being able to raise up and some how figured it out which he can't remember how. I guess that was useless information but it makes me think that there might be an unbalance on the actually car

I decided the other day to raise up the spring and strut to see if it moved up and if I'm not mistaken it went up a mm or so. Which sucks cause its not even enough but the problem is, that side (the passenger rear) strut and spring adjustment is max to the highest and is still lower than the other side. Which the other side spring is close to being maxed as well as the strut not being touched at all..

Can I get some opinions on the situation?

 

If you are adding more spring length (in the bucket) then you might have to lengthen the shock. Otherwise if you don't lengthen the shock you are just compressing the spring more (getting shorter) to reach the higher up (shorter) shock.

Were you making the same spring and SHOCK adjustments on each side? Might want to take all 4 pieces out and see if the two sets match.

I have noticed my 04 g sedan looks very uneven from each side but if you actually measure it with a tape measure- it's spot on

 

Hey fellas, I haven't been in here for awhile and noticed a email about a PM@ my350z.

Aaronhl is correct. If your making a height adjustment you want to shorten or lengthen the shock accordingly. Easiest way to set you new height on the rear is to remove the bolt from the rear clevis (lower mount fork) and do all your spring adjustments first. Once you've figured your height out on the spring, then you want to preload the spring 1/4 to 1/2 inch. On a new spring I always tell customers 1/2 inch. Since springs will settle a bit you'll find yourself back to around 1/4 inch preload.

Easiest way to preload the spring on independent rear is to use a jack under the spring bucket. Raise the jack until the spring is snug. You should be able to grab the spring and not have any side movement when tugging on it. From here measure the distance from the fender to center hub. Reduce 1/2 inch from the distance you measured by now raising the jack. Once you have 1/2 inch less distance from the center hub to fender, your spring will be preloaded. Now you can lengthen or shorten your shock to the appropriate size where you can slide the bolt through the clevis and remove the jack. If done properly, your shock now is holding the preload on the spring instead of the jack. Hope this helps. I'm requesting we do a video diagram. I have a feeling it's much easier to see done.