frocker93

iTrader: (2)

Would there be any noticeable handling changes with 0 camber in the front and rear? The car is not gonna be tracked. And how do you get 0 camber in the front and rear? I have adjustable arms in the rear, do I need to make the toe bolt hole larger or do I need different arms?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

The car will be tail happy

SR71

iTrader: (1)

Sound like someone bought the wrong car and should have gotten a Prius.

frocker93

iTrader: (2)

Very funny. I don't understand what's wrong with people wanting to save money when they can.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

How are you saving money?

chinkymrsettles

iTrader: (3)

this car comes stock with a bit of negative camber right? I'm a suspension newbie so I apologize if i'm wrong.

frocker93

iTrader: (2)

Tires last twice as long. I've had the car a year and have gone through 3 sets of rear tires. 0 camber would let me rotate them without having to re-mount them the opposite way.

frocker93

iTrader: (2)

Yes it does

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Actually 0 camber would not do that. Since tire size is staggered they still need to be flipped and remounted. Also, I typically got 25k out of my rear tires, my rear was set at -2.1 as a street car. My fronts lasted between 30k and 40k on the street with a camber setting of -1.5 at first then dropped to 25k to 30k when I bumped camber to -2.5 as I got more serious for the track.

Your car has other problems if you shred tires that fast.

grug1

I've run close to zero camber front and back with toe in at both ends. Handling is neutral with good even tire wear however I'd still suggest you run 1.3 to 1.5 degrees neg camber if you drive even moderately aggressively

stuartc323

Dude you have something wrong with your suspension, stock camber is -1, and even then you dont use tires like that. Your rear tires will go faster than your fronts because its a RWD car. Either you are driving way too hard, using cheap *** tires, or your suspension is broke.

I highly doubt the neutral handling, because that doesnt come from camber, and camber is what gives the Z its cornering ability, go close to 0 and you lose that. I have had 0 camber on my Z before just to see what it will do, and handling was half of what it was supposed to be. I was spinning out tail end first just like Terra said, i would slide really hard on turns, and the car didnt feel as stable.

OP what kind of tires are you using? and do you have any suspension mods on your car?

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

+1 on other alignment related issues, maybe try running a tire with much higher tread wear?

frocker93

iTrader: (2)

I have a square setup so I can rotate my tires like a normal car. Suspension and alignment are fine, and I've had michelin and continental tires.

grug1

I highly doubt the neutral handling, because that doesnt come from camber, and camber is what gives the Z its cornering ability, go close to 0 and you lose that. I have had 0 camber on my Z before just to see what it will do, and handling was half of what it was supposed to be. I was spinning out tail end first just like Terra said, i would slide really hard on turns, and the car didnt feel as stable.

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Maybe you need to look at your shocks/ springs or refine your diving style.

The OP asked a question, I answered based on my experience on my road going Z, if your eperience differed, it differed, nothing more.

And just for the record, I'm running 1.3 deg neg at the moment in my road Z and find it wears even across the tire face.

On my track only Subaru I'm still only running 2.2 deg F with 1.8 R compared to other who run 3.5 deg or more and always place the the top 5 in events I compete in. Yes you might pick up a little mid corner speed and it feels fast running more neg camber but consideration needs to be given to all aspects of maximising traction, brake, entry, apex, power down exit.

And now the big revelation, ideal camber setting is not an absolute, it's subjective and what works for some may be **** to others.

stuartc323

LOLOL I was telling you that what you told the OP is not a proper way to setup these cars. Sure you can roll around on 0 camber all you want, but in OPs case he is worried about tire wear and handling changes which will change with postive camber on a Z. A subaru and a Z are two completely different cars and are no comparison because of different suspension geometry and mechanics, so unless you drive that Z on the track, dont use that as your basis for your argument.

BTW the bold just kills your whole original post. Why tell the OP that its ok for him to run positve camber when your own Z is running near stock negative camber and experiencing similar to same tire wear? You say something like the second sentence in bold and that just tells me you have sort of a clue but not really.

grug1

Your right, I'm wrong

Dude you're missing the point entirely

Emski

ANYWAYS OP factory spec is your best bet still. How many miles on the car? Because with worn out suspension bushings maybe you can still get alignment in spec on the rack, but once you start driving it (load & unload) everything goes out of whack.

zach711f

iTrader: (11)

I run 0 camber in the rear. It's for other reasons but it drives fine on the street. Love the way it responds.

But yah anyways I don't suggest it it for grip racing. You should just stick to the stock settings for daily driving. I have never noticed a problem driving on the streets with 0 camber.

grug1

PS: you need to sue your grade teacher. 0 degrees is neither positive or negative, it holds a neutral or zero value ( hence why it's referred to as 0)

zach711f

iTrader: (11)

Speaking of positive camber. Some formula d guys run positive camber depending what track there on. I was talking with matt field during drift week in Colorado. I noticed one wheel neutral and one wheel positive camber. He said because of the entry being on turn 4 of the oval track he gets even tire wear on the slope with positive camber on the one side.