I just installed my v3 front upper links (A arms) on my 2007 350z. Easy install and very solid piece of suspension. With this I also installed Kinetix rear adjustable camber arms and spc toe bolts to get my alignment 100% true and reliable. Let me also add that my car is on stock struts and lowered 1.5/ 2 inches on eibach sporline springs.

I follow the DYI write up on the spc toe bolts located on this forum. In this write up it tells you to extend (cut) inwards of the toe bolt hole because that is all that will be necessary.
http://www.batit.com/forumpics/spctoeboltinstall.pdf


I had tried aligning the z when I had first bought the car (clearly with no luck haha) but at that time I had purchase the ever so lovely lifetime alignment! After the install I brought it back and they wanted like $150 to align the front, which is not what I really wanted to hear seeing as I just spent near to $1000 just on parts. So I told them to get the rear aligned and I would do the front by myself. (side note: I work in a four bay shop with a hunter alignment machine that is less than a year old, But have never really been trained in alignments haha. Gotta learn somehow right!). When I picked the vehicle up from the alignment shop (goodyear) the steering wheel is crooked, about 2-3 inches to the passenger side, and the z has a slight pull towards the right. The current measurements from my alignment rack are as pictured below.





I understand that the spl front arms run off of a shimming system but wanted
to see if anyone has had any experience aligning using these arms. Also would like reccomendations on getting the steering wheel straight and reccomended specs for DD (slight canyon use). Thanks in advance guys, hopefully you guys can teach me something.

If this is the wrong location for the thread, please feel free to move it! Sorry, I am newish to this forum haha.



Link to the installation and alignment of the v3 arms:
http://cdn.splparts.com/tech/SPLFUAZ33.pdf

 

First, your pictures are up side down. I can't really tell what I am looking at.

Second, with that minimum drop from running with sportline you can pretty much get away with using stock camber arms. But hey, if you can afford SPL parts, why not.

Third, I owned and run SPL suspension parts on my car. And I have to say they are the best value, quality, easy to adjust alignment parts of the punch. But most importantly, their parts are made in the USA.

Lastly, good job for DIY job. Now go fix the pics.

 

Thats wierd, they are all right side up for me. Maybe refresh the page to see if that will help?

 

You can center the steering wheel by adjusting the tie rod ends. Count the flats on the hex as you shorten the tie rod on the passenger side, and lengthen the tie rod on the driver's side by exactly the same amount. Tighten the jam nuts securely, of course.

 

I would do the front lower control arm bushings and radius arm bushings. I had alignment problems after upgrading A arms, coilovers (KW variant 3s), endlinks, and swaybars. I am lowered about 1 inch from stock height. I had trouble holding alignment and then started to get this weird vibration when I was on highway. If you are lowered these bushing will wear faster. My bushings were shot and now my car aligns right. Next will be steering rack bushings. I used ES poly bushings.

 

somebody correct me if i am wrong, but dont you need to get the front wheels aligned 1st so you can align the rears? that's what the shops tell me...

 

I have always been taught rear first and front afterwards.

As far as my bushings go I have inspected the front and they are all up to par. I do have a ball joint in the front that is going out and will be replaced this week.

What would you guys reccomend as far as alignment specs in the front?