So, the new popular thing to do is the Akebono upgrade but there is a group of guys doing SRT8 front/rear 4/4pot 6/4pot and also the 17z/18z Porsche front. While some are okay with running a 4/2 pot system like our OEM Brembos and Akebono, I feel that I will need better stopping power. I looked around and looked for some alternatives. There's the usual Stop Tech and Rotora, then I found the SRT8 group.

After doing some research, I decided it wasn't for me. Material being shaved off gets me sketched out. Losing out on integrity of the vehicle is just a nono in my eyes.

Anyone have any other alternatives? BMW Brembo? Cadillac CTS-V?
Does anyone has information on Brembo GT's and what they came off of?

I'm looking for a larger 4 or 6 pot and a 4 pot rear and would like NOT to compromise bias.

ALL INFORMATION WELCOME!

 

6 pot front


4 pot front


4 pot rear

 

The only thing to adjust is your overthink on brakes. the only problem with bigger and bigger brake kits is UNSPRUNG WEIGHT, which increases with a BBK. Brembos are also engineered to work with the Z33 brake master and provides very good modulation, which may or may not be a consideration. But if you're into performance, the lightest brakes to do the job and a matched MC for excellent brake modulation should lead the priority list.

 

a 4/2 won't cut it at 500hp

I plan on a wilwood mc

 

What does hp have to do with that , a 4/2 Brembo set will work well until you pulling some dam fast track times

 

There are tons of people on here with way more then 500 on stock brakes lol


I just finished my Akebono upgrade and once I finally got them bled right they have so much more stopping power and don't nearly even overheat like the stocks.

 

I do some spirited mountain driving and also track, the 4/2 aren't cutting it unfortunately. After a couple stops you can start to feel a major difference.

 

It's called getting the right pads and rotors. The Akebono or Brembos are more then you will ever need. Your over thinking way too much

 

What brake pads are you running?

 

Hawk hps

 

That's the reason. Swap them for a set of XP8's or 2500's. Even HP+ would be an improvement

 

My choice is Cobalt Friction XR2 pad with Ti backing plates on my Brembos. Adding a set of brake ducts will help keep temps down, as will constantly bleeding the brakes with a high temp DOT 4 fluid like ATE Gold 200 after a hard run. But we're hardcore racers here, so what the HELL do we know?

 

How is fade on the track?

 

Just get the best pads you can buy first of all without updating the whole thing, it's a waste of money unless you are doing 30+min track sessions every week.
I'm on CL Brakes RC5+ = unreal

(don't bother with EBC or Ferrodo)

 

I mean bigger brakes mean better stopping distance right? Clearly solid logic. #sarcasm.

 

I mean the longer you push a car, the more it's going to heat up your brake pads and keep then there, the more contact from a pad the less amount of time spent on the brakes. Having more stopping power at your foot isn't a bad thing.

 

Thats not how big brake works at all....

The purpose of big brake kits is better heat distribution. Nothing more, nothing less. Big brake with crap pads, lines, fluids means nothing. You can have the biggest kit ever made, but it will still fail if youre running oem fluids and lines. Or off the shelf pads....

But again, most who thinks bigger brakes=better stoping power usually run the cheapest tires and wonders why it takes them 200ft to stop from 50mph.

 

More contact, same amount of time, but with less pressure. The actual limiting factor is the tires.

If you have a firm pedal and you feel fade it's because your pads are not up to par

If your pedal is spongy, it's because your fluid is nit up to par

If both happen, both need updating of both.

 

This +1

I did the Akebono upgrade because even after changing fluid, then changing pads I would still encountering fade on track. The track I run (Homestead) has several medium speed sections (70-100 MPH) followed by very tight turns (30-40 MPH). So brakes never get a chance to cool off. The BBK upgrade made a world of difference. My brakes feel the same corner after corner, lap after lap, ever after a whole day (5 sessions, 9 laps per).

The other thing is learning HOW to brake: so far the key seems to be getting on the brakes HARD but for a short period of time. My guess is people who are "mountain driving" are dragging their brakes a lot, by gradually slowing because without braking points references you can't tell how deep into a corner you can push it. On the track each lap you learn how brake required per corner so your braking becomes MORE efficient. I use the brakes less now because I've learned how to brake later.

Downsides- the BBK is heavy, the rotors and calipers are HUGE, fit with some 18" wheels is not possible but the OEM Touring V1 and V2 are OK.
Upsides- since they are OEM parts available is high with reasonable costs.

 

Mountain driving is the same as track but using your momentum to your advantage in corners. I won't need to brake as long if I'm going uphill. You also have to learn your roads meticulously. Mountain braking 101.

Dragging brakes are for new drivers. I've had this car since I was 21, I'm 29 now, so take that into account for driving ability.